CK3 Probe II Tutorial – MRA MODE (Liteon 83850V2 & 93450)

Instructions

Here is the method to do a full dump of your Liteon drive using the CK3 Probe II (MRA) Method. This has been tested working on ALL drives including  83850 v2 & 93450 (it works on the older 74850, 83850 v1 but there is no need to do an MRA dump of those drives – it's already proven that the laser calibration data was just manufacturer data and does not have any bearing on the fw at all) – including BOTH the MXIC & WINBOND chipsets (Some competitors products do not have the Probe v1 function, do not have the Multi-R switch and do not have circuit protection – so be aware of the differences before you purchase.)

Recommended Tools (Sponsored by ModTraders)

CK3 Pro: http://www.modtraders.co.uk/xecuter-ck3pro-rev-d.html
CK3 Probe II: http://www.modtraders.co.uk/xecuter-ck3-probe-v2.html
Fiberglass Scratch pen: http://www.modtraders.co.uk/xecuter-fiberglass-scratch-pen.html
Xacto Knive Set: http://www.modtraders.co.uk/16pc-xacto-style-knive-set.html

Before you use the CK3 Probe II we recommend that you make sure your PC SATA setup is working correctly. So connect the CK3 Pro to the DVD drive and connect the SATA cable to your SATA card/motherboard and check Jungle Flasher to see if there is any communication. If all is well this is what it should look like:

We are assuming that you have opened up your Liteon DVD drive and taken the PCB out ready for the procedure.

1. This is how you connect the CK3 Probe II to the CK3 Pro. Make sure the OP Switch is in the UP position and switch the mode to MRA. If you power on the CK3 Pro you will see that the CK3 Probe II BLUE POWER LED is on and the MRA GREEN NORMAL LED is on (IF the RED LED is Lit, OP-Switch is in WRONG position!). This shows that everything is functioning. You should now turn the CK3 Pro power OFF.

MULTI-R SWITCH: We recommend you switch to 20. Only use 18 or 22 if you cannot get into vendor mode.

2. Ok now for the pain in the ass part. You have to cut traces on the PCB. The cuts are small and not difficult to do. Most people use an Xacto knife or better still a small dremel tool. We also strongly recommend you use a fiberglass scratch pen and clean up the 2 pads around the via holes to make the Probes contact better.

TOP TIP: Clean the traces with a Fiberglass Scratch Pen BEFORE you do any cuts – Gives you better visibility of what your cutting and the pads are less fragile whilst still joined to the trace. For those who waste time making posts saying "Do I need a Fiberglass scratch pen" – You have proved that you didn't read this tutorial

There are two methods you can use for cutting the traces. The first is the V-Cut.

Make 2 small cuts where the yellow lines are. You can use a continuity tester to make sure that the cut is clean.

This is what a clean trace cut should look like:

Here is the second method. It's a little easier but you'd have to solder a small jumper wire as per the following image (you can still use our conductive glue to do this when its available). You can use a continuity tester to make sure that the cut is clean:

3. Now take the CK3 Probe II and place the points onto the marked red and green positions. The Probe's pins are clearly marked. Remember at this stage the power to the CK3 Pro should be OFF.

4. Now turn the CK3 Pro power switch to on. You will now see the CK3 Probe II BLUE POWER LED come on and also the MRA GREEN NORMAL LED come on.

5. Using the latest Jungle Flasher (v0.1.73 at time of press) refresh the I/O port. you should see the DVD drive properties if everything is connected and setup correctly. This is also an indication that your SATA is setup correctly. You may need to select another I/O port then return to the correct I/O port for it to show properly.

6. Press the Intro/Device ID Button.

7. Now Click Yes, then push the OP Switch on the CK3 Probe II down. The MRA R/W LED should be RED (If it doesn't go Red don't worry just carry on through the steps – everything will work as normal)

Note: The Red R/W LED not working may indicate the pull down is on the weak side. Every effort was taken to bias the red led off point at the optimum voltage for MRA. This optimum is the point that guarantees a successful intro, w/o damaging your drive. It will not effect how the Probe 2 reads / writes the firmware in any way (You could also try a different resistor level too – that's a good indication of a weak pull down).

Note: Some users report that Turning OFF CK3 PRO first – OP SWITCH Down – THEN click YES – Turn ON CK3 PRO – switches to vendor mode more successfully. Either way could work for you.

8. You should now get Status 0×72 and you are in vendor mode. As soon as you see the flash chip properties switch the OP SWITCH up to Normal mode right away (GREEN NORMAL LED). Hold probes in place and dump firmware by pressing READ button, ONCE "save" button appears you can remove probe, power off CK3 and SAVE that OFW

(NOTE: If you have a Winbond IC you may see a warning to switch LT switch back to normal then press OK! Simply operate OP Switch to up position then click OK.)

If you don't get 0×72 then simply retrace your steps and try again (if you are using Windows x64 then 0×72 rarely kicks in the first time. Wait until it says failed, turn CK3 power off, click intro/ID, click yes then turn CK3 Pro on – 0×72 should kick in after a couple of seconds). We have done this process many hundreds of times and our testers have now done hundreds of consoles. When done correctly it works every time.

9. Once you have dumped the drive a couple of times to make sure the key is correct, simply follow erase and flash the drive while holding the CK3 Probe II in place – the whole process takes all of 30 seconds. No soldering of any PCB rebuilds required or any other messing about.

10. When finished, repair the traces with the conductive glue that is included with the CK3 Probe II (or use your own if you bought the early batch that wasn't included – or simply solder). You're good to go !

7 Responses to “CK3 Probe II Tutorial – MRA MODE (Liteon 83850V2 & 93450)”

1. Genocide208 says:

   April 29, 2010 at 7:01 pm

   When using the Probe v2 I'm running into an issue with Jungle Flasher where the "into/Device ID" buttons arent coming up…simply remaining shaded…any ideas?
2. Genocide208 says:

   April 29, 2010 at 7:45 pm

   Got last issue fixed by reloading the ck3 drivers, and downloading jf 1.73 again. Now however as soon as I click Intro, I cn only get a status of 1xB0? Its the same on 3 seperate drives, 2 with "v" cut and one with the soldered 2 cut method.
3. Genocide208 says:

   April 30, 2010 at 3:20 pm

   Got it working everytime on three seperate drives by; after clicking "indro?Device ID" turn the ck3 pro OFF, switch the OP to r/w, click "yes" in Jungle Flasher, turn ON the CK3, then quickly OFF on CK3, ON on CK#, and then OP switch back to "green"…pops up a lovely 72 and doesnt freeze at all. Excellent product Team X, I'm very happy that since the day I ordered my first X3 front panel years ago I never turned back to anyone else. Top quality product!
4. gigigadda says:

   September 18, 2010 at 9:40 pm

   Fantastico!!! Grazie team-xecuter!!!!
5. Marcal says:

   December 18, 2010 at 6:25 pm

   ok so after the read and dump i need to solder back or fix the tracers before erase and flash i am right?
   
   TX Admin: That's what the tutorial says…..
6. fantus says:

   February 11, 2011 at 7:50 pm

   Hey, i phoned my local electronics store and the guy there recommended a polishing bit to get off the protective coating, would this also work?
7. riyyi says:

   February 16, 2011 at 1:02 pm

   What is the main goal when you do the cutting? Cut through the dark green lines or the lighter green inbetween the darkgreen lines?

   TX – I'm not sure how to describe cutting traces any clearer than the pictures show ?