2.6CE Install On A v1.0 Xbox

[da84tona]

The pin header install gave me troubles because the holes of course were filled with solder. So I decided to do a wire install. (see pic "lpc")

I accidently lifted the d0 trace on the bottom of the mb. Repaired using a conductive pen. (see pic "fixed d0 trace")

I had a crazy idea for getting the d0 re-soldered back onto the point. I cut up an lpc rebuild for a 1.6 and stuck a pin in the alt. d0 point (the one above the one that I lifted earlier) soldered the wire directly to that. (see pic "ghetto rig d0")

Now, my problem is that when trying to boot with the modchip on, from bank 1, i get flashbios, which is the way that I programmed it. (using first the ftp flash and after that did not work, i purchased the programmer and used it)
When I try and boot with the modchip on, from bank 2, I get a black screen.

I try and boot with the modchip off, and I get a black screen. The xbox NEVER frags, (which has to be a good sign right?)

Im flashing with X2.5032 521k bios in banks 3-4 and flashbios 3.03 in banks 1-2.

I now get black screen/no video nomatter how I have the switch set: bank 1, bank 2, chip disabled, chip enabled, doesn't matter.

Any suggestions would be greatly appriciated, sorry for long post, just wanted to include all information.

 

[da84tona]

*Bump*

 

[da84tona]

If anyone could help me it would be greatly appriciated!

 

[Cra41g]

I've never had this problem, maybe this is a longshot...........

If you get the same result, no matter if the chip is on or off, then maybe there's a physical problem on your motherboard?

Not sure what your AV setup is, but when you power the Xbox on (chip on or off), does your TV switch to the scart input (or whatever) that you have the Xbox connected to?

 

[Fantmx]

Your first goal should be to get the Xbox working again. Remove everything, and see if the Xbox will work. Then go from there.

 

[da84tona]

I've never had this problem, maybe this is a longshot...........

If you get the same result, no matter if the chip is on or off, then maybe there's a physical problem on your motherboard?

Not sure what your AV setup is, but when you power the Xbox on (chip on or off), does your TV switch to the scart input (or whatever) that you have the Xbox connected to?

I have a regular setup here, nothing fancy, and when I turn on the xbox with it on or off, I get a change from cable (obviously) to a black screen. The xbox sounds like its booting up fine. I dont know what the problem could be here, and im at my wit's end! Im just about to say Fack it and send it to someone else to finish the install!

What could cause a problem like this? It couldn't be the lpc, could it? I mean even when I unhook the chip completely, it will still boot up to a black screen, no flubber logo or anything, just a black screen.

 

[Fantmx]

Unplugging the chip won't change what happens if the problem is with your soldering. Some of those wires look pretty burned, and there is some solder splatter around the LPC area. As I said before, remove everything, wires included, and get the Xbox working. Then try to install the chip again.

 

[da84tona]

Well I took everything off, still frags. So now im on a wild scavenger hunt for shorted traces, lifted resistors, and solder splatters. Ive spent way to much time on this thing.

I guess I should just learn from my mistakes and move on, even though I dont know what I did.

BTW, has anyone successfully re-sold their mod-gone-wrong xbox back to a place like Gamestop or somewhere where you can trade in your broken system? The only thing I would be afraid of is that when the system got to microsoft for repair, they would see that it had attempted to be modded, and get back with Gamestop and they would fine me

Thanks everyone for your help thusfar

 

[Fantmx]

Don't be that guy... You took a chance and screwed up. You knew there was a possibilty of wrecking your Xbox when you started, so deal with it.

Get a magnifying glass, and look over the LPC area.

 

[da84tona]

Well I took your advice and lookey Here

Found that thing on the bottom of the board. Think this could be causing my problem?

Im going to get the multi-meter and check it today, then If its bad, try and repair it as best I can I guess. Its gonna be very difficult, but i think ive gotten pretty good w/ that little cunductive pen

Wish me luck guys.

 

[Dreamreaper]

what version box is it as I thought only the V1 and V1.1 boxes came with pre soldered holes, if so it looks...... well to me like the D0 is not in the right place, there again I could be mistaken as it is only a small shot of your D0, but it don't look kind of right to me.

 

[da84tona]

what version box is it as I thought only the V1 and V1.1 boxes came with pre soldered holes, if so it looks...... well to me like the D0 is not in the right place, there again I could be mistaken as it is only a small shot of your D0, but it don't look kind of right to me.

Na, I followed the d0 trace up to the top end and ghetto rigged it as seen in the picture, what is not seen is the fixed trace where I origionally attempted to solder it. Since I repaired it with a cunductive pen, I understand I cannot solder to that joint anymore, therefor I just followed it up the trace and used the alt. d0 on the bottom of the board.

 

[da84tona]

I checked for continuity and sure enough, there is .01ohms of resistance between that suspect trace, so it must still be good. So it is not the one I posted a picture of a few posts ago.

After doing some diag. on the lpc however, I have determined that Pin #5 (LRst), and Pin #1(LCLK) are not giving me the correct voltages. Pin #1 gives me 0.0v when I should be getting 0.2v and hole #5 gives me 0.17v when I should be getting 3.3v. #5 worries me alot. Well I guess im off for another round of scavanger hunt for a problem. (pin numbers in reference to picture attached)

Thanks everyone for suggestions, If anyone has more dont hesitate to suggest.

 

[da84tona]

Does anyone know what could cause these bad readings? Has anyone ever had this problem before? I'm at a loss.

 

[da84tona]

I have found a tan colored resistor (at least I think its a resistor) that is giving me a very odd ohms reading. <see picture> C7D2 is the number, If someone could check it for me, it would be awsome.

It will go from .001 and slowly creep upward by like 10 or 20 at a time until it gets to like 1.2ohms. Does this indicate a bad resistor? None of the other tan ones or black ones for that matter have given me a reading like this. Im really getting pressed for time on this one, a quick answer would be very much appriciated.

 

[Fantmx]

That resistor looks like you got heat a little too close to it. Is it sitting flat on the board?

 

[Dreamreaper]

C= CAPACITOR
R=RESISTOR
as you are looking at C7D2 then er I reckon its a surface mount capacitor. Reason you are getting funny readings is because you are charging the cap up with the multimeter.

 

[da84tona]

C= CAPACITOR
R=RESISTOR
as you are looking at C7D2 then er I reckon its a surface mount capacitor. Reason you are getting funny readings is because you are charging the cap up with the multimeter.

Ohhh duh, I should have known that! C for capacitor, R for resistor, got it.

As for the capacitor sitting flush, yes it is sitting flat on the board. R7D1, also pictured, worries me too.

If anyone has any more suggestions, or experience in this area, please post. While I wait for a response, im going to some garage sales

thanks

 

[notsonewguy]

Well i dont have any info to help ya, but i can tell u that i'm having the same problem.. just with the voltage, my pin 1 gives me 0.0v and my pin 5 gives me .20v......we have a very similar problem...going to search more tonight to see what if i can find anything...u have anyluck yet? i hope its not a resitor or capacitor problem....but mine look fine. so i dont know...i'll let ya know what happens after yet another search for the problem. nice to at least know someone else is having a very similar problem

 

[notsonewguy]

well this is probably a dead thread but someone will read it eventually, i did the continuity test, and found that my pin 5 reading was WAY high compared to the rest, and I read that means a break in the trace, or some sort of trace problem...but pin 1 is fine, but i'm still not getting any voltage from it, and its supposed to be 0.2v. i'm going to try a trace repair, on pin 5 i think i see where its broke/lifted, if i get pin 5 to the correct voltage, could somehow, someway (very doubtful) it fix the pin 1 problem??? this is just a wish because that pin has got me baffled. was just hoping that if i got pin 5 correct, that it would somehow allow pin1 to get its .2v, anyway...i have to wait a few days for my conductive pen to arrive, I had to order it because our Radioshack in canada is now The source, u'd think it would still be the same, but they don't have the pen... any info or suggestions would be great.