5v on v1.0 motherboard

[ab123456]

I bought a used xbox and it looks like the previous owner made a mess of installing his chip. There were a few broken traces around the pin header that i have since repaired.

I have a xecuter 2.6CE but when i enable the chip my xbox frags and there is no LED on the chip, with the chip disabled everything is fine.

I have checked the pin header installation and i think my problem is that im not getting 5v volts on pin 6. (I am getting 0v)

I have checked the soldering and it looks ok but i cant see any traces connecting to this point that i could track back and measure the resistance with my multi meter to help identify the problem area.

Does anyone know how i can get 5v onto this pin so the chip will work. It is a v1.0 motherboard.

 

[bazrich1]

have you connected the do wire, as there is no need for a seperate 5 v wire on a v1.0 box, if so i would chek the install again as thats what its looking like

 

[Big_Whoopin]

There is no need for a separate 5v wire on a 1.0 box *if* the 5v is working from the LPC... which according to tests isn't the case. Traces for this 5v would likely be thicker than the others around the board, they could be on the top and not just the bottom... difficult to see if you've done a pinheader install. If you can't find anything additional on the LPC port and really want to come up with an alternate, I would suggest taking a look at the 1.6 Xbox install guides. This version requires an alternate 5v source, maybe this alternate area also exists on the 1.0 box. See if you can find the same component and test it out with your multimeter. I don't know if this has ever been attempted so you could be taking a gamble on using it.

-Whoopin'

 

[ab123456]

I am a bit worried now when you say i could be taking a gamble using an alternative 5v could i be risking breaking my xbox altogether? or just the mod chip?

Does anyone have a link showing a v1.0 board that might show the trace for the 5v supply to the lpc, there doesnt seem to be anything underneath but as whoopin said it is difficult to see the top side because i have a pinheader in the way.

I think repairing the existing trace (if in fact it is broken) would be my preffered approach. Im not in a gambling sort of mood just yet.

 

[Big_Whoopin]

While I can't say for sure what version box it is from, the first LPC picture on the "LPC Testing" link in my sig has a clear image of what pin 6 connects to. There isn't much pictured outside the LPC so it may be difficult to match this up to your box, but it might be enough to work from.

The "you're taking a gamble" bit is basically a CYA for my own defense. I don't know for certain that this will work, it is just a suggestion that I think has a reasonable chance of being successful. I don't know if that component exists on a 1.0, and if so would it always have a steady 5v coming off of it. As far as I know this is uncharted water and as such there will be a risk. Chances are you would only fry your chip if anything as the traces on the chip circuit board are relatively thin compared to the rest of the hot traces on the motherboard. I've personally seen a X2.3b chip that burned out due to a short on the chip to switch cables. The only damage that occurred was that on the chip a trace burnt out, it acted like a fuse and didn't damage the rest of the system.

The only other 5v points I know exist on the system are in the USB interfaces to the controller ports and right off the power supply connector itself. These might be a bit more difficult to attach to though.

-Whoopin'

 

[ab123456]

Thanks Whoopin i do appreciate you taking the time to try and help me out.

Ive managed to locate 5v on the capacitor that can just about be seen on the photo in the lpc guide I am just deciding whether i have the guts to the soldering myself.

Assuming i am feeling brave enough could I use the alt 5v wire supplied with my chip to connect direct to the xecuter chip for use on a v1.6 board or should I solder to the underside of the pin header.

Thanks again.

 

[Big_Whoopin]

If you have the 1.6 wire available I would use that. It will allow you to completely remove the chip if needed without having to unsolder anything. Plus, then you don't need to worry about damaging something while soldering on the chip board itself. You'll only have one point to solder instead of two. It's win-win.

That's going to be a small point to solder to, so I would recommend you first tin (apply some solder to) the end of that 5v wire if it is not already done, and maybe add a little fresh to just the solder point on the capacitor. It will make the attachment of the wire to the cap a bit easier, plus you'll have a bit better control over trimming down the end of the wire so you don't have unshielded excess sticking out at the solder joint.

-Whoopin'