JTAG A little help with one bad block on NAND

mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
0
Birmingham, UK
Hi Guys

So I've done a few jtags so assume that I at least half know what I'm doing!

Had a jtagged Xenon all working fine a few days ago, now it has thrown an E79 error. So stage one, checked the hard drive and it is ok, removed the hard drive and tried booting, still E79. Changed the video cable to make sure it wasn't that , still E79.

Ok, stage two. Opened the console up and checked continuity on all jtag points, everything as it should be, soldering all good.

Stage three. Dumped nand and compared it to the freeboot_13599 nand that was flashed to it when it was all working in the first place. Several mismatches. I assume this would be normal as after flashing the nand I went on to update the console with MS 13599 update to get avatar and kinect functionality working? Re-flashed the known good freeboot_13599 nand back onto the console and powered up. Just black screen, no ring of light spin on boot up, no error messages.

Stage four. Flashed stock nand back to console and powered up. Everything good and console boots back to orignal dash. So re-wrote just Xell and powered up, E79. Re-wrote Xell and FB, black screen again.

When I first dumped this console's nand three times I had one bad block everytime, block 250 @ 2C9. As it was the same block everytime across the three dumps, and that it was way past the boot sector blocks, I continued without re-mapping this one block so when writing the nand I get the "Error 202 programming block 2C9" message. However I knew it was going to say that and like I said earlier the console was running fine for a couple of days after the FB flash.

So I thought I would re-map this problem block as I can't see what else it could be now, it is a first for me and I'm not sure what I'm doing tbh. I used Coolshrimp's 'Remap Bad Blocks' facility, selected a good copy of my nand, entered "250" into 'Bad Block' field and "2c9" into 'Location' field. Clicked 'Add' and then clicked the 'ReMap' button. When writing new re-mapped nand to console I'm still getting the error programming at block 2C9. Opened up my nand in XNandHealer and checked it, it also says still a bad block at 2C9:



I messed about with XNandHealer's repair facility and flashed a supposedly fixed image to the console. Booted up to E71 - there's a first! Yet another dashboard related error I believe.

I've now got a copy of NandCompare-v1.2 and I'm reconstructing using the three good nand dumps but it says that they are not matching (due to this 2C9 block). I always do three dumps and I always nand compare them, if the differences are the known bad block then that shows that my three nand dumps do all match doesn't it?

Anyway I'm off to try about the 10th flash now, any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Mark
 
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mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
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Birmingham, UK
UPDATE:

Just to make sure that the efuse R6T3 hasn't been blown I just checked it with the 20k ohms setting on my multimeter. It is showing 9.69 - is this right?

Edit: Sorry, after reading around I realise that this isn't the efuse at all but a resistor which supplies the power to blow the efuse. So I guess checking this resistor proves nothing other than the fact that it is still working.

Tried an XBR image instead of a Freeboot one and still geting E79.

By the way my jtag part is using 1N914 high speed diodes. Could someone kindly tell me how to check that they are working as they should by using a multimeter, i.e. what values I should be getting from each when console is powered up?

Cheers
Mark
 
Last edited:

V3nn3tj3

Full Member
Jun 30, 2011
62
0
Belgium
UPDATE:

Just to make sure that the efuse R6T3 hasn't been blown I just checked it with the 20k ohms setting on my multimeter. It is showing 9.69 - is this right?

Edit: Sorry, after reading around I realise that this isn't the efuse at all but a resistor which supplies the power to blow the efuse. So I guess checking this resistor proves nothing other than the fact that it is still working.

Tried an XBR image instead of a Freeboot one and still geting E79.

By the way my jtag part is using 1N914 high speed diodes. Could someone kindly tell me how to check that they are working as they should by using a multimeter, i.e. what values I should be getting from each when console is powered up?

Cheers
Mark
Do check a diode:
Digital multimeters have a special setting for testing a diode, usually labelled with the diode symbol.
It will conduct one way, not the other (thats how a diode works...)

If you don't have a multimeter with diode setting, just test the resistance of the diode, put it on the lowest setting for reading resistance. It will show a very low resistance one way (anode to kathode) and a very high, to infinity (and beyond), the other way.
 

mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
0
Birmingham, UK
Do check a diode:
Digital multimeters have a special setting for testing a diode, usually labelled with the diode symbol.
It will conduct one way, not the other (thats how a diode works...)

If you don't have a multimeter with diode setting, just test the resistance of the diode, put it on the lowest setting for reading resistance. It will show a very low resistance one way (anode to kathode) and a very high, to infinity (and beyond), the other way.
Thanks for that V3nn3tj3, I did have the diode symbol on my multimeter and I have just powered up the console and got these readings:

337 @ point 3 below
-422 @ point 4 below



So are these the correct values to be getting? If so then my wiring is fine I guess (the jumper wire has no resistance and comes back with 0).

Cheers
Mark
 

mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
0
Birmingham, UK
If it was working fine, after checking the diodes get a resistance reading on J2D2.1 and J2D2.2.
Hi Martin

Full resistance of 1 between points J2D2.1 and J2D2.2 when console powered up and sitting at E79. I have my multimeter on the 200 ohms setting, when probing the two points the reading jumps up to 1983 for a split second then goes back to 1.

Cheers
Mark
 

Martin C

VIP Member
Jan 10, 2004
35,981
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Scotland, UK
www.team-xecuter.com
Mark

Turn off the console :)

Set your resistance threshold to 10k.

Put the black probe on ground and the red probe on J2D2.1. Do the same with J2D2.2.

Let me know what values you get.
 

mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
0
Birmingham, UK
Hi Martin

Yeah I'm a multimeter noob, no denying that lol!

Ok then I don't have 10k threshold, only 20k, both points are showing as 1.55.

Cheers
Mark
 

Martin C

VIP Member
Jan 10, 2004
35,981
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Scotland, UK
www.team-xecuter.com

mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
0
Birmingham, UK
Well at least that's something, thanks Martin

I suppose I should have checked the diodes the same way, black probe to ground and red probe to diode end?

I will put up some photos but they are going to be crap as it's getting dark and digital camera is broken, just a sh*tty HTC camera phone that is useless in low light conditions.

This is a bit blurry but you can see my wiring on a youtube vid I posted when I was bored a couple of weeks ago (5.22 - 7.00 minutes). The soldering is sweet , that's one thing I am good at after 10 years+ experience:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/user/harrybunk#p/a/u/0/0Pz522OcT2k[/ame]

Excuse the brummie accent and my lack of knowledge on the testing of the diodes, I've probably spouted a load of crap on there lol.

Thanks again for all your help Martin, I'm out now for a couple of hours but if I can get a decent pic of the solder job expect it up later tonight.

Cheers
Mark