Advice and Guidance pll_bypass repair

ronsonol

Junior Member
Jan 17, 2012
12
3
Hello everyone, before I do anything else I would really appreciate your advice and guidance.

I have a Jasper BB that I managed to RGH 1.0 some 8 years ago using the couple QSB boards for nand and some other points.
I did have some trouble with the pll_bypass point but I managed to get it to work and used hot glue for extra support.
So for 8 years, even though I only occasionally used the console, all worked fine.

Recently I started having trouble booting, and the cause was the pll_bypass wire.
I had the board out of the case, and with a little pressure on the hot glue with my finger the system would boot.
I thought perhaps using something underneath to provide this extra pressure would help, but in doing so the hot glue gave way and I lost
the connection to the point. Even after it broke off, I manged to boot Xell if I held down the wire in the perfect spot, although this was hard to achieve.

I've read about alternate pll_bypass location. I beleive they want you to run a jumper wire from the bottom of the board to a location on the top.
The place on the bottom of the board references a resistor that I don't think this board has. Perhaps there was another pad instead of the resistor that I also lifted?

Is there a way to use the alt location on the top side of the board (under one of the heatsinks, not sure which one - this has a tall and a short one)
and go directly from there to the coolrunner A point, and remove the existing wire that runs underneath attached to A.

Or must I make this bridge to the underside of the board, in which case I don't think I'll be able to do myself if the point isn't available.

While I have updated the nand many times with new kernels and avatar updates since RGH, I still have my original dump nands.

Some Photos: The photos show the point exposed, can't get a little solder at the point, I can't keep a steady hand, and don't want to risk making any worse until I hear back from those with more experience.

Many thanks in advance for your help.
 
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ronsonol

Junior Member
Jan 17, 2012
12
3
I managed to get it running again. I was able to attach it back the the original location. I hope it lasts as long as it did the first go around.

For anyone that might have a similar issue, and I have seen pictures that looked similar to mine...
I cut about a half inch off the lead of a resistor, and soldered the first 1/4 inch to the wire. I used heat shrink tubing to cover and only expose about 1/4 inch of the lead.
Then I bent the last 1-2mm down 90 degrees (basically and L shape), and manged to build up a good bead of solder at the end. A little flux on the point, I then held it down on the exposed pin, and pushed down on the iron. A little glue for good measure.
 
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