Alternate alternate point on Trinity

freeskier44

Noob Account
Jun 29, 2010
6
1
Hello everyone, finally got my Demon in the mail and got right to installing on my Trinity Accidentally pulled the D0 pad (of course something had to go wrong) and immediately went to the alternate point thread. Soldered it up to the resistor and finished the rest of the console. J runner started throwing errors so I multi metered all my connections and found the alternate wasn't working. Tried re soldering for quite awhile with no luck... I found the pad below it would work with my multi meter and was able to solder there and dump the NAND no problems. I will of course re solder it better but before that wanted to make sure this would be okay. Will this give me problems down the road or was this an okay alternate alternate point?



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Martin C

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Jan 10, 2004
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No, it's the wrong point.

There's a very good reason these are for professional installation.

A pro would have told you that each I/O point is tied to a 10k resistor.
 
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freeskier44

Noob Account
Jun 29, 2010
6
1
No, it's the wrong point.

There's a very good reason these are for professional installation.

A pro would have told you that each I/O point is tied to a 10k resistor.
Okay and I know each point is tied to a 10K resistor. But that point I soldered to has a trace that runs up to the resistor that I am supposed to solder and I was able to successfully dump my NAND. I've down quite a bit of soldering with various small electronics but my multi meter wouldn't show 10k on that resistor unless I tested it from this pad which clearly goes through that resistor through the various tests I did. I understand that it's the "wrong point" but it's tied through the resistor because of the trace and I've tested it with the multi meter.


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keil423

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Apr 4, 2011
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South Dakota, USA
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That depends on which side or the resistor your testing to. Test to the inside of the resistor. If you test to the outside then they will all show continuity.
It looks like your a pad off to me as well. If you would try setting your camera to macro. Have the room lite well but turn the flash off on the camera. Let's see a close up from straight above.
 

freeskier44

Noob Account
Jun 29, 2010
6
1
That depends on which side or the resistor your testing to. Test to the inside of the resistor. If you test to the outside then they will all show continuity.
It looks like your a pad off to me as well. If you would try setting your camera to macro. Have the room lite well but turn the flash off on the camera. Let's see a close up from straight above.
I tested from that pad to the left (inside) of the resistor and I tested from the left side of the resistor to the NAND pin and then that pad I soldered to, to the same NAND pin and got the same reading. I know I'm "technically off" from the official alternate point since it is supposed to be on that resistor. But that pad is giving the same readings, and isn't linked no any of the other NAND pins. I will get a better picture when I get home.


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freeskier44

Noob Account
Jun 29, 2010
6
1
My advice, don't ask for help if your not willing to accept it. If your going to post another picture it should be of that jumper moved over. We will go from there.
I am willing to accept it, all the advice is to move it up to the resistor. And I did that in the beginning and it still wasn't working. I checked it with my multi meter and it wasn't showing anything. Even after I un soldered the connection to it, I was un able to get any reading from one side of the resistor to the other. Every other connection has been tested and is fine.


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freeskier44

Noob Account
Jun 29, 2010
6
1
What's stopping you using a meter set to continuity and checking against the NAND itself to find the point?

Once again, this ain't for noobs.
That's what I've been trying to explain that I did... And this is the point I came up with. Sorry if I didn't explain that. I just wanted to make sure that if it works on the multi meter then it is fine. I know it's not for noobs, and I made sure it wasn't a noob question or just me not soldering to the right point. I know it's not the correct one but the multi meter is saying it is a fine alternate to the inside part of the resistor. And I wanted to make sure it will be fine in the long run.


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