Any easier alternate POST_OUT1 for phats? (pic inside)

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sofakng

Full Member
Jan 13, 2004
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So... I lifted the pad off my phat (Jasper) POST_OUT1.

Apparently there is an alternate point underneath the GPU heatsink but that also requires scraping a trace and then soldering to it (seems difficult).

Are there any other alternate points that might be a tad easier?

Can I repair this any other way? It looks like a tiny piece of metal is still inside the point but I couldn't get solder to stick to it...


 
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sofakng

Full Member
Jan 13, 2004
29
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I've sent a PM to rdubbs, but I'm still curious... is there no way to fix this other than the alt point under the GPU heatsink?
 
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sofakng

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Jan 13, 2004
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Well, now the console doesn't boot. sigh.

Thanks for the help though... I might just sell this ones for parts and try to mod another one... (I'm doing this more for the interest of doing it and not for piracy, etc)
 
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sofakng

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Jan 13, 2004
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OK - Let me try to get this one back to working then at least...

Here's a picture of my POST_OUT1 after I tried to "fix" it:


Did I damage the trace running to FT6U4? (I've drawn arrows where the trace is, and where I believe it might have been broken)

The only other spot I was messing with was the PLL_BYPASS (I had to remove an old wire), and perhaps I screwed that up but it looks perfectly fine to me:


Anybody see what could be causing the console to not turn on at all? If it is FT6U4, are there any alternate points I can solder to, or must I "re-join" the trace to the point? (ie. can I jump FT6U4 to another point on the board instead of scraping and fixing the trace)
 
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sofakng

Full Member
Jan 13, 2004
29
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Oh, I have a multimeter and can check for continuity.

Do I have to scratch the trace to check or can I put the probes over it? (I'm guessing I have to scratch the trace to expose the copper)
 
Dark_Riku

Dark_Riku

VIP Member
Mar 2, 2012
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This looks similar to the Slim i done a few days ago. The POST_OUT pad was lifted, but i managed to tin the slightest point of it and was just able to get the wire to rest on top of it. Continued and glitched the system. I suggest you try and tin it to that little tiny spot i see in the image or definitely send it away for repair.

As Martin says, use this board to practice your solder points. Maybe get a lower voltage iron or practice short burst soldering.
 
theagent

theagent

VIP Member
Feb 4, 2011
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Southern California
sofakng said:
Oh, I have a multimeter and can check for continuity.

Do I have to scratch the trace to check or can I put the probes over it? (I'm guessing I have to scratch the trace to expose the copper)
Click to expand...
You can either scratch the trace using a fiberglass scratch brush/pen... or you can follow the trace to a component/pad/etc and probe between the points.
 
x360ccm

x360ccm

BANNED
Jan 18, 2011
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south coast UK
you need the right tools for the job.

scratch pen.flux.solder.a good iron.a multimeter.

main part skill in soldering.

use it as a tester to inprove your skills or send it to somebody to be fixed.
 
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sofakng

Full Member
Jan 13, 2004
29
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My fiberglass scratch pen (from Xconsoles) will be here tomorrow (and low-loss coax cable). I'm also using radioshack rosin flux and a halfway decent multimeter.

Anyways, it looks like both of the points I need to jump are located under one of the x-clamp. (my broken FT6U4's trace leads to a component located under the clamp so I jump it to that instead of soldering onto the trace)

I've watched a few videos on removing the x-clamps using a screwdriver and such but they all appear to bend the clamps and it doesn't seem like they would be very secure afterwards.

Does anybody have a better method or tutorial/guide for removing the clamp? I do have arctic silver 5 that I can apply after putting the heatsink back on...
 
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