BB Jasper won't glitch. No green light on Coolrunner.

seaweavil

Noob Account
Jun 8, 2011
7
0
I am trying to glitch 2 BB Jaspers. One is 512 and one is 256. Both have the exact same symptom. The green light doesn't light up on the Coolrunner.

I have read through the forums and have seen several people are having this issue so I tried everything I've read with no luck. I initially had the wires routed as per Ubergeek's tutorial but after research people had said that moving the wires away from the Coils had helped them. I tried it but nothing. I have built my ecc with everything out there. I have tried version .02 - .04 of Multibuilder with no luck. I have checked over the soldering and everything looks rock solid. My friend did all the soldering as he is much better than I am so it will be a few days before I can get him out here again to check these again himself.

I used NAND-X, QSB's and the wires that came with them. But like I said nothing seems to work. Any suggestions would be great.

Also I was wondering what is the typical behavior of the Coolrunner when running on a stock nand. If I have it on the normal setting it RRODS but if I have it on the program setting it boots. Maybe this has something to do with it?

Thanks for any help in advance. Very frustrated and would love to get these going!
 

jsw98765

Noob Account
Mar 6, 2005
5
0
You know how they say the 3 most important things in real estate are location, location and location? I think the same principle applies here. Soldering, soldering and soldering.

I had a troublesome Jasper 512 a week or so ago. Double and tripple checked my soldering. Finally I broke out the multimeter and found that I had a bridged connection at the coolrunner. Couldnt even see the tiny piece of solder until I pulled out my huge magnifying glass.

Other then that, make sure you programed your coolrunner correctly, and that it's switched to phat and NOR (I think thts the right setting).
 
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seaweavil

Noob Account
Jun 8, 2011
7
0
The Coolrunner is definitely set to Phat and Normal. I have programmed it several times. Always says successful. As far as the wiring I will have my friend come out in the next few days and triple check all of that with a multimeter and a magnifying glass as well. Thanks for your reply.
 

loalge

Full Member
Nov 25, 2010
96
0
Eugene, Oregon USA
When you moved the green wire did you go away from or towards the xclamps? The ones i've done would only work if i routed right next to the xclamps. Another thing i did was flash the original full nand dump back and left the coolrunner hooked up. I kept moving the wires and checking solder points until the green light flashed before going into orig dashboard. once i got it flashing i flashed ecc.
 

seaweavil

Noob Account
Jun 8, 2011
7
0
When you moved the green wire did you go away from or towards the xclamps? The ones i've done would only work if i routed right next to the xclamps. Another thing i did was flash the original full nand dump back and left the coolrunner hooked up. I kept moving the wires and checking solder points until the green light flashed before going into orig dashboard. once i got it flashing i flashed ecc.
I moved them both away and toward the xclamps. It was easier to keep them away from the coils toward the xclamps so I left them there. I am in the process of flashing the full original nand dump back at the moment again. Then I will try to do as you suggested.

With the coolrunner set on normal and stock nand is it supposed to boot to dash? Mine just goes to RROD unless I set the Coolrunner to Program.
 

loalge

Full Member
Nov 25, 2010
96
0
Eugene, Oregon USA
mine went to dash. i saw posted somewhere that the install should not interfere with normal operation. I hate sayin it cause i hate hearin it but it sounds like one of your points might be messed up. rrod on me when a point was wrong, booted to dash with no green light when routed wrong and flashed once maybe twice before going into stock dash when all was good. i dont know if anyone else has tried this method of troubleshooting but that been my experience. the jaspers were by far the hardest to get to cooperate.
 

seaweavil

Noob Account
Jun 8, 2011
7
0
Ok thanks much. Yeah I have searched quite a bit on the forums and couldn't find a solid answer on how the xbox should behave with the coolrunner installed on normal or program.

I definitely won't rule out soldering until everything has been tested again with a multimeter. I think I am going to try and install without the QSB's and see if it helps at all if I don't have a solution by this weekend.

I haven't tried anything except Jaspers so far, I have a Trinity I wanted to try as well but I thought I would see how these went first. Go figure I would pick the finicky one to start with. Ah well. Thanks again for your responses.
 

keith6625

Senior Member
Sep 26, 2004
130
0
Pleasant Hill,MO
if you move the green and blue wire away from each other you will have better luck with this i had them together and would not glitch and i moved the blue wire towards the bottom and as far as away from the coils as i could get them and it glitched

i have also read if you use a diff route for all the wires maybe diff holes in the MB you will have better luck too

and check your PLL_BYPASS (green wire)it will cause a RRODif its not right so will the one by the hanna chip STBY_CLK (orange wire) and that one is easy to bridge with the wire install

and the 68nF 100V Ceramic Capacitor has to be installed on the BB Jaspers well i have only done 3 so far but they all had to have it before they would glitch
 
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loalge

Full Member
Nov 25, 2010
96
0
Eugene, Oregon USA
i would use the alternates especially for the orange. If you get this the trinity will be a cake walk. The biggest problem with trinity is boot time.
 

seaweavil

Noob Account
Jun 8, 2011
7
0
if you move the green and blue wire away from each other you will have better luck with this i had them together and would not glitch and i moved the blue wire towards the bottom and as far as away from the coils as i could get them and it glitched

i have also read if you use a diff route for all the wires maybe diff holes in the MB you will have better luck too

and check your PLL_BYPASS (green wire)it will cause a RRODif its not right so will the one by the hanna chip STBY_CLK (orange wire) and that one is easy to bridge with the wire install

and the 68nF 100V Ceramic Capacitor has to be installed on the BB Jaspers well i have only done 3 so far but they all had to have it before they would glitch
Did the green light blink on the coolrunner before you installed the capacitors?
 

keith6625

Senior Member
Sep 26, 2004
130
0
Pleasant Hill,MO
i could not get it to flash at all till i added the cap had to add two of them on one of the BB Jaspers i have done if it did flash it was taking it way to long to flash and wouldn't glitch if it did
 

seaweavil

Noob Account
Jun 8, 2011
7
0
Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. I successfully have both Jaspers running perfectly now with immediate boot times every time. The issue was the HANA chip point on the QSB's on both boxes.

I also tackled a slim and it glitches but I am having a hard time getting consistent times. It can take anywhere from 15 seconds up to 2 minutes to boot or else sometimes it won't at all. I have done plenty of reading on what to do with nothing helping but I'll deal. I assume at some point this will be perfected and I'll worry about it then. I have a trusty JTAG to wear out first anyways.

Thanks again for everyone's help! It's very much appreciated.
 

Disk0

VIP Member
Jan 20, 2011
407
0
Exeter UK
Could you take a picture of the problem area?