The KV issue is not an issue apparently it looks for a separate KV file. If not there it extracts it it's self. I've gotten past that and I have made sure my wires are routed away from problem areas.
RGH Black Screen/no signal after flashing flashnand.bin
- Thread starter IceBerg303
- Start date
ok well from re-reading your original thread (about you LV values not being right) you have a bad nand dump...
Please next time USE JTAG TOOL...
Now just rebuild your nand... JTAG tool has a feature for downloading a clean dump that you can use to rebuild your nand assuming you have a good CPU key..
Please next time USE JTAG TOOL...
Now just rebuild your nand... JTAG tool has a feature for downloading a clean dump that you can use to rebuild your nand assuming you have a good CPU key..
right, but I used xnand healer to do everything this time and now the LV are fine. there are two remapped blocks, no ecc errors so that shouldn't be a problem, it's not on my jtag units. I will redo the whole process and try it with jtag tool
The xell using reset does work fine but the glitch only hits about 1/15 times going into it if that makes any difference.
Ok, I started from scratch with jtag tool. However now the CR isn't even trying to inject (flash of the green light)
I did ref lash the timing code the the CR just to make sure I had it correct, but now no glitch attempts.
I did ref lash the timing code the the CR just to make sure I had it correct, but now no glitch attempts.
Images of the install. I didn't resize them so you can see as much detail as the crappy phone cam can take so they are links not embedded. I didn't want to embed images that large and annoy people.
http://www.anony.ws/i/HJVkl.jpg
http://www.anony.ws/i/LN9U.jpg
http://www.anony.ws/i/kmhgJ.jpg
Also it was trying to glitch before I reflashed the timing code to the coolrunner. I only did so to make sure I did have everything correct.
http://www.anony.ws/i/HJVkl.jpg
http://www.anony.ws/i/LN9U.jpg
http://www.anony.ws/i/kmhgJ.jpg
Also it was trying to glitch before I reflashed the timing code to the coolrunner. I only did so to make sure I did have everything correct.
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Yellow looks really bad, like you burnt the pad off... The green looks like its touching another point...
Martin C
VIP Member
I've only just come into this thread so apologies.
If your console was glitching before (albeit inconsistently), your ecc image was fine.
I would avoid JTAG Tool personally as I've had it create invalid ecc images. Go back to what you had before. If it's still inconsistent, it's wiring/soldering.
If your console was glitching before (albeit inconsistently), your ecc image was fine.
I would avoid JTAG Tool personally as I've had it create invalid ecc images. Go back to what you had before. If it's still inconsistent, it's wiring/soldering.
nope the solder points are good, it's hard to see in the photos but I have a nice lighted magnified solder/rework station.
As I said Xell was working, so until I ref lashed it the cr was working. now it doesn't even try to glitch.
As I said Xell was working, so until I ref lashed it the cr was working. now it doesn't even try to glitch.
Try rerouting green, yellow and blue so they dont touch each other. Have you tried with a capacitor from ground to A? I know its for Jaspers, but you never know...
Write your original nand and unsolder the red wire on the CR, see if it boots then start by writing Xell on it and build GGbuild with XNandHealer.
writing the original hand back and doing the ecc has gotten me back to a point where I still need to debug whats going wrong. There freeBOOT.bin that jtag tool made was useless, it wouldn't even try to glitch, so Im back to using best pig to generate that, it's trying to glitch but I get the general error
3 Red
secondary error 4 red flashing fast.
cell works fine by it's self, but the one in freeboot(eject button) generates the same error. So there is something with the hand that is being generated.
3 Red
secondary error 4 red flashing fast.
cell works fine by it's self, but the one in freeboot(eject button) generates the same error. So there is something with the hand that is being generated.
Ok, just after my last post I did get it to boot but it froze on the 360 splash screen.
After that a few more attempts and I was quickly into the dash and had freestyle installed in no time, however the number of times it takes to get it to boot varies. Is there any way to improve the success of this?
After that a few more attempts and I was quickly into the dash and had freestyle installed in no time, however the number of times it takes to get it to boot varies. Is there any way to improve the success of this?
Martin C
VIP Member
Freezing is caused by wiring interference, which is why you've been asked to check the routes used.
You have a Zephyr, so boot times will be erratic regardless. However sort the freezing issue first (wire routes) and the boot times should improve.
If it's no longer freezing, you can try the 68nF cap between A and GND to see if it helps.
You have a Zephyr, so boot times will be erratic regardless. However sort the freezing issue first (wire routes) and the boot times should improve.
If it's no longer freezing, you can try the 68nF cap between A and GND to see if it helps.
I posted images of my wire routing. The only comments I got were about solder but I know the solder points are good so if anyone has any suggestions about my wire routes Im happy to make changes and it's why I used electrical tape. Once I have them perfect I'll move to hot glue.
Here are the images again so you don't have to go back a few pages
http://www.anony.ws/i/HJVkl.jpg
http://www.anony.ws/i/LN9U.jpg
http://www.anony.ws/i/kmhgJ.jpg
Martin C
VIP Member
try running CPU_PLL_BYPASS *under* the x-clamps.
Closer pics of your soldering points would be useful too.
Closer pics of your soldering points would be useful too.
After talking in the irc chan I was told zephyr units are temperamental. I did a little better routing of my wires and got some improvement. I then decided to take this one step further. I replaced the existing yellow blue and green wires with shielded wires. the internal wire is the same length, but the shield at both ends is wrapped in shrink tubing and then routed to ground. On average now I have to reboot once, with the worst so far having to reboot twice.
My yellow wire was defiantly too close to the coil it passes by. If I get some time I will post up a photo with some additional trouble spots to avoid, but anywhere there is a electrolytic cap or coil avoid those areas. That probably helped more than the shielded wire but what the hell it didn't hurt for sure.
My yellow wire was defiantly too close to the coil it passes by. If I get some time I will post up a photo with some additional trouble spots to avoid, but anywhere there is a electrolytic cap or coil avoid those areas. That probably helped more than the shielded wire but what the hell it didn't hurt for sure.
Martin C
VIP Member