JTAG Bought the wrong product

[MISTERMANN]

I was told by a respected member on the forum that I needed kit #2 for my opus motherboard.
I bought the kit and it came the next day! Great service!

I decided to fit the J2D2 today and did it successfully. Upon fitting the red/yellow wires I noticed that my board has 6 holes instead of the usual 1 where the red wire would go.

I now have a half fitted kit on my board and have no idea what to do now.

Upon further research, I found that my board is infact a Xenon refurbished and I have the wrong kit. I have the red & yellow wires now and don't know where they go and I'm requesting help with this.

This is my first Jtag and it's not going well. Like I say, the J2D2 is soldered onto the board already. So I don't fancy taking it off.

Any help appreciated.

 

[Martin C]

It's not a biggie, really. the only difference between a Xenon and a Falcon/Zephyr/Jasper when it comes to wiring is where J2D2.1 and J2D2.2 go off to.

J2D2.1 -> J1F1.3
J2D2.2 -> J1F1.4

Just solder the wire ends of the red/yellow wires into the corresponding hole.

 

[skiiermike]

Just in case you have to later on it's actually not that hard to remove the qsb. I had to remove one this morning. lol

If you don't have any de-solder braid grab a small piece of speaker wire I find it works very well.

 

[MISTERMANN]

Does anyone have a diagram of where there J2D2.1 & J2D2.2 are? Which colour wire? And where are J1F1.3 & J1F1.4 on the board?
One last thing, are they diodes that are in the red/yellow wires. Are these safe to stay in?

Thanks!

Is this right?

 

[Martin C]

umm, J1F1.3 and J1F1.4 are the holes in the top left of the pic (labelled 3 and 4 respectively).

If you soldered the J2D2 header already, it's fine. use a meter to see what hole goes to what wire. It shouldn't be that hard to work out.

Put one end of a probe on J2D2.1 and the other probe on the little solder point in front of the 2wire connector. You'll then be able to work it out.

It's a 50/50 either way. Try yellow to J1F1.3 and red to J1F1.4. If it does E79, then swap them over!

 

[MISTERMANN]

Sorry I edited my post :redface:

How would I tell if it e79? Once the wires are installed is it safe to turn on?

I won't be jtagging it yet, i'm just installing these wires.

 

[Martin C]

Yes - if they're round the wrong way, no harm done. You'll just boot to a single red light and E79 error on screen (assuming you've done everything else first).

do you have a test meter?

 

[MISTERMANN]

Yes - if they're round the wrong way, no harm done. You'll just boot to a single red light and E79 error on screen (assuming you've done everything else first).

do you have a test meter?

It's just a standard Xbox with no dvd drive on an old dashboard.

No other modifications whatsoever.

Yes I have a multimetre if that's what you mean?

Thanks

 

[Martin C]

ok

http://www.xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55083

pic in the first post.

You see the silver lines on the left that have the red and blue vertical lines on them? they correspond with the pin in the socket to the left. Get your multimeter and set to continuity. Put one probe on the J2D2.1 point and the other on one of these silver lines (or the pin itself for that matter. If you find that J2D2.1 beeps on the bottom line/pin, then the wire that goes into this pin runs off to J1B1.3.

Sorted

 

[MISTERMANN]

ok

http://www.xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55083

pic in the first post.

You see the silver lines on the left that have the red and blue vertical lines on them? they correspond with the pin in the socket to the left. Get your multimeter and set to continuity. Put one probe on the J2D2.1 point and the other on one of these silver lines (or the pin itself for that matter. If you find that J2D2.1 beeps on the bottom line/pin, then the wire that goes into this pin runs off to J1B1.3.

Sorted

Awesome man!! Just what I was looking for.
Never mind, I get you now!! So i'm totally safe, once this is installed to boot up the Xbox? Remember there's no other modifications..
it won't fry anything will it?

 

[Martin C]

No- if you've not dumped the NAND, flashed XeLL etc, you'll get E79 on bootup. That's all.

 

[MISTERMANN]

Just sussed it out now, the bottom pad goes to the top pin.
Soldered it all up, tested the pads where I soldered the board onto and I get good contact from the bottom of the board to the top.

Wires the 2 wires up and gave it a boot, no errors booted straight to blade dash perfect. Is there any possible way to test J1F1.3 and J1F1.4 for good connection?

I placed solder over the holes, kept the iron there and slid the diodes down. the diodes pulled the solder down with them and I just chopped them at the end. Pretty easy for my first time.

Hope everything's done right, ready for the respected member to loan me his Nand-X to Jtag it.
If everything goes smoothly I may even end up buying one.

Thanks again Martin C! :wink:
(& if it has worked, could you change the title to [FIXED] please.)

 

[Martin C]

Cool - glad it's booting to blades still. I'm guessing you've not plugged the header into the socket on J2D2 at the moment? If you do, you should get E79.

 

[MISTERMANN]

No the tiny plug with the 2 wires is plugged in, I guess I haven't done it then. :frown:

Am I aiming to get e79? and where should the tiny switch be set to?

 

[Martin C]

Set the switch to 330. This should give you E79.

 

[MISTERMANN]

Set the switch to 330. This should give you E79.

Still no e79. I've took the pcb off because I didn't use to sticky and tried it just with wires and diodes. I still can't get e79.

 

[Martin C]

Take a pic of what you've done.

 

[MISTERMANN]

Soldering looks bad without the pcb board, but the connection goes right through to the underside of the motherboard.

---------- Post added at 22:07 ---------- Previous post was at 22:03 ----------

Do you mean header as in the white plug that has the 2 pins?

 

[Martin C]

ok - you've stripped the QSBs away

Can you get your multimeter and switch it to 2kOhms (or nearest thing to this but more than this value). Get readings from the J2D2.1 and J2D2.2 when the Xbox is off and unplugged. Should be either 500Ohm or 1.5kOhm.

Your wiring for these points doesn't look too hot but check first and let me know.

 

[MISTERMANN]

ok - you've stripped the QSBs away

Can you get your multimeter and switch it to 2kOhms (or nearest thing to this but more than this value). Get readings from the J2D2.1 and J2D2.2 when the Xbox is off and unplugged. Should be either 500Ohm or 1.5kOhm.

Your wiring for these points doesn't look too hot but check first and let me know.

I got around 460ohms for both of them. thanks!