I'm almost completely done with my rgh2 and so far nothing has gone wrong there is no damage to the motherboard, no pads have been lifted all processes in jrunner have completed without error. My only problem is that trouble some point. Point b near the resister. I practically need a magnifying glass just to see it! But I researched an alternate point titled FT3N2 if this point does work (which the ultimate guide says it should) I will be able to complete my RGH2. However, my orange wire does not seem to be able to extend far enough to read it. Do you think it would be possible to cutt off a chunk of 22 awg wire and extend it with it so that way it can?
Can I extend the orange B coolrunner wire with 22 awg so it can reach the alternate p
- Thread starter tornado711
- Start date
I actually prefer to use the alternate point regardless. Dont extend the wire, just use a wire that is long enough to reach. It should work no problem, I do it all the time!! Also be careful with FT3N2, that point is one of the more gentle ones. Just as easy to burn up as the top side.
So wait. Your telling me I should just entirely remove the orange wire and use a different wire thats long enough to reach it? Would the 22 awg wire I got at radioshack work? Also thank you for the kind and patient response for the noob question your great man!
BL4K3Y
VIP Member
Rev C on a trinity motherboard. Again I would like to know if I could use 22 AWG wire to extend the orange wire or even use the 22 awg wire entirely as suggested by JR above.
BL4K3Y
VIP Member
Yes i am saying just remove the orange wire and use a different wire that is long enough to reach. There is no point in "extending" the orange wire. Use whatever wire you want but my honest opinion...use something that isnt too thick. Try and use a wire that is similar to the orange wire but just longer. Your not gonna want to solder a thick wire to a really small point. What I have done in the past: Coolrunners come with Slim and Phat wires, so if I am doing a slim install that means I have all of the Phat wires left over. I then can use those phat wires as backups/replacements for alt points that need a longer wire or if I accidently lose a wire.
Would you recommend a specific wire out of the phat ones or will any of them as long as they reach work?
BL4K3Y
VIP Member
If you have a spare set of wires (you should have a phat set spare), you can cut one of the wires to fit.
I won't tell you which one because there are three to choose from which will do the job just fine.
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As long as it reaches it should be fine! Make sure there is some slack though, dont stretch a wire that will barely make it....too much tension might rip the point off. The blue cpu_rst wire from the phat wires will work good. Cut it down to a good length, to where it will reach with a little bit of slack....
Could you just tell me I tried the yellow PHAT wire and the coolruner remained red when i booted. Could you please just tell me which colors and not be vague. I see no reaosn not to. I do not wish to have to solder and unsolder as that will weaken the alternate point pad!
BL4K3Y
VIP Member
Wire colours make no difference.
The only two wires which are thicker in a pack of wires are GND and 3.3V.
The rest are the same as the orange wire, so cut either the green, yellow or blue wire to size.
I think it's time for you to complete the JTAG/RGH template.
Thank you for the information I know i've posted alot of noob stuff on here and I appreciate your kind patience with me. However, I used the yellow wire yet the coolrunner does not flash Green. This is due to wire placement from what I've read. I'm going to send you some pictures of my setup if you could look over them and detect any error I would be greatful (note I've checked for bridge solder and the yellow (non phat) wire soldered near where the blue one raps around looks bridge soldered but that is just a tail on the solder thats hovering over the point but not touching it. Also I taught myself to solder like only a week before my solder look a bit umm abstract. So forgive me but there should be no bridged solder points or error if you notice some please don't hesitate to tell me. http://imgur.com/ibwHaPZ (note ignore the sloppiness of the top green wire on this first link it may look like its bridge soldered to several other points but its not its just a deformed mass blob of solder it looks like its bridge due to the angle that its at. Same goes for the brown and red wires and the point above the green wire. None are soldered I can assure you its simply the angle.) My setup on the back with the blue wire, yellow wire, and other yellow wire http://imgur.com/GYhQYSC,8uWLYss,oCAXSHb,5oT2EYl,ejxNgNf#1, http://imgur.com/GYhQYSC,8uWLYss,oCAXSHb,5oT2EYl,ejxNgNf#2, http://imgur.com/GYhQYSC,8uWLYss,oCAXSHb,5oT2EYl,ejxNgNf#3 (ignore the burnage around this one wire is still intact and no wires are touching causing a shortout, and the gnd wire: http://imgur.com/GYhQYSC,8uWLYss,oCAXSHb,5oT2EYl,ejxNgNf#4 again if you notice anything wrong perhaps they are soldered in the wrong place do not hesitate to tell me.
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Honestly...you should probably just redo most of that wiring/soldering. especially around the post out and cpu rst (looks like a mess). You need to make sure that this stuff is good to ensure the best possible results. Also, where do you have the cpu rst wire soldered to? Doesnt show in the pictures and its essential for the chip to glitch..... Another tip, use FLUX!!!
I've redone all the wires tinning them and fluxing them and ever
here are the new photos (also I used all new wires and the wires I didn't have extras of I trimmed past the burn parts.): http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e (here is your picture of where I soldered my spare unburnt cpu_rst wire to.
http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e#1
http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e#2
http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e#3 (your opinion of this photo on how i did wrapping the 50cm cpu_rt around the x-clamp would be much appreciated)
http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e#4 (note green wire on bottom looks odd cause the end of rubber is slightly melted but its still attached to the ordered point.
http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e#1
http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e#2
http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e#3 (your opinion of this photo on how i did wrapping the 50cm cpu_rt around the x-clamp would be much appreciated)
http://imgur.com/amXadd6,wMcAAEi,ZzvvS3Y,Uab927b,dQeit7e#4 (note green wire on bottom looks odd cause the end of rubber is slightly melted but its still attached to the ordered point.
\also here is where my gnd wire solders to. IS it done correctly? http://imgur.com/7rD0G93 if it is or isn't I'd like to solder it to the coppper screw holes like a couple people recommended to me just to see if it makes any difference.
Also here is the ftn32 alternate B point soldered with the long yellow PHAT wire. didn't feel I would have to re-do this one as it seems decently soldered, and I fluxed and tinned the wire and points before applying it. Also the more I melt and remove solder that weaker that point is guna become so the more prone it will be to being lifted/Burned: http://imgur.com/wwnPCIJ
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