FIXED Confusion with install using postfix adaptor

[Antalpromille]

The install on a V3 is the same as on V1 except you wire C to the postfix adapter instead of the bottom post_out1 point. After you have done that you should realy post all necesary information just like Martin said, like clear and detailed pictures of every solderpoint and logs from jrunner.

 

[loady]

I don't see the Corona Upgrade kit anywhere?

From the template:

Do you get a green debug light appear on the RGH chip every 4-5 seconds: Y/N

How long is the light on for each time:

No corona upgrade QSB, correct me if i am wrong, the upgrade QSB is soleley to add the crystal, in which case i have done it via the diy method as you can see from the picture. I have included some links to youtube video of the glitching so you can see first hand and some closer pictures of soldering. If you require more pictures of any part please do let me know, thats the best i can do photo quality wise.

Is it ok that i have RST soldered to C5R11 point ? i have it soldered to the pad furthest away from the 'C'
Videos are 3-3 timings, 2-3 timings and cool runner flashing respectively.

[video=youtube;Z6ws94_mfYY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z6ws94_mfYY[/video]
[video=youtube;UDipV7jLYaU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDipV7jLYaU[/video]
[video=youtube;iD8ve42W4K8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iD8ve42W4K8[/video]

And some soldering pictures....

 

[Antalpromille]

why do you keep posting pictures over the same area over and over again? are you trying to hide something or do you not want help?

 

[loady]

Hide ??... what exactly do you require a picture of ??... I was asked for some close ups of the soldering again.. which are there... The cool runner can be seen in the video in situ with my board and everything else around it.. what else do you require a picture of exactly.. I'll take some more pictures and include a copy of today's paper ?... what is it that you think I am trying to hide ?? ill take a picture of it, Please explain.

I have taken close up pics of the soldering from different angles..the only thing i have not taken a picture of is the RST shielded cable which is on the under as i didnt really want to remove the board from the chasis..but for completeness and so that you can see there is nothing hidden under there either i have posted a picture below, i have also included a picture of the ground if it is any help. Are we done with suspicion now ??? If so, i would appreciate your or anyone elses help please.

 

[Antalpromille]

You can start by removing that double shielded cable and replace it with the standard blue one, about 14cm will probably work fine. What method did you use to remove the oscillator from your clone CR? It could be faulty or just a few ppm faulty since its probably a cheap one.

 

[loady]

i have a hot air rework station and gave it a LITTLE heat and just lifted it off, i do a little smd work and am quite honed in removing and replacing TSOP 48 so it was very easy, but your right about the crystal probably being cheap..i do have one here somewhere that i bought that people recommended but i cant find the damn thing.

I though the shielded cable was the 'way to go' ??..can i solder the blue to the same point ? RC511.

I have since removed all the wiring to the board from the cool runner and the two wires to the nand set, i have made some posts out of pins and soldered them to the nand wires and heat shrink tubed them to make the job much cleaner..i may as well be absoloutley sure its not the soldering, ill post a picture of it when done.

 

[Martin C]

All videos are private, so no good posting them here unless they're public.

You still didn't answer the questions from the template regarding the glitch light, so we're at a standstill (once again).

You should also know not to use double-shielded coax on surface mount pads as it will lift them. None of our tutorials show anyone doing this, but yet you decide to?

The most frustrating part is TX announced over and over the Rev C won't give the best results for Corona and the Proto / Proto v2 chips are far better suited. You really would be much better off buying one of these.

 

[loady]

bugger, didnt realise you couldnt see the videos..dont use youtube that much but have now made them public. you can see the glitching light for yourself but for the 3-3 timing it is five seconds between pulses and on for one second if that

 

[Martin C]

bugger, didnt realise you couldnt see the videos..dont use youtube that much but have now made them public. you can see the glitching light for yourself but for the 3-3 timing it is five seconds between pulses and on for one second if that

Less than a second? that's the problem.

Looking at your header soldering closer, you possibly have a wire shorting one of the E/F wires against 3v3. Hopefully it's not permanently damaged the SPI.

 

[loady]

maybe i should have said at least a second, from other videos i have seen the light seems to act identically...have you seen the videos now ? i am redoing the wiring to be sure..i have seen the short you might have seen..it looked like a trace on the board that had been revealed when i rubbed with the fibre pencil to reveal the copper holes..it was actually a tiny strand of wire..so lets see...

EDIT: Rework done, light now staying on for nearly 3 seconds

 

[loady]

glitched to xell in less than 10 seconds with 1-2 timings..and the moral of the story is.............check your soldering even if your cock sure, which i wasnt by the way. Is this the norm now for this console ? like will it boot everytime as quick as this ? or have i yet to tweak that..and can i leave the RST wire in place that the OP said i should remove ?

 

[Martin C]

You can only tweak once it's put back into case. I personally wouldn't leave a heavy coax soldered to that pad, unless you're 1000% sure it's never going to budge. I would swap out with standard blue wire if it was me.

 

[loady]

Thanks martin, The coax is flat against the board and taped down and i angled the copper bore down to lay flat on the point and it is not exerting any pressure away from the pad, it is a really good connection and i am very happy with it, so thanks for all your input..maybe i should leave the noob room now.