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Afaik slim's only have one red light on the entire RF board (middle right led):wink:. But correct me if I'm wrong:tongue:
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GENERAL Coolrunner LED Mod
- Thread starter superspeed
- Start date
Afaik slim's only have one red light on the entire RF board (middle right led):wink:. But correct me if I'm wrong:tongue:
ok so got home n pulled it apart and booted without the case
xbox boots perfect 1st time everytime now WTF lol
was nothing to do with this mod at all like i thought so sorry if i put anyone off it and to the op
i aint doing this mod lol as i have one of them stupid rf boards.
i will keep an eye on it though
xbox boots perfect 1st time everytime now WTF lol
was nothing to do with this mod at all like i thought so sorry if i put anyone off it and to the op
i aint doing this mod lol as i have one of them stupid rf boards.
i will keep an eye on it though
I'll be working on a simple solution for the newer RF boards.
Think youll find that i already did that on page 18 along with the video, but got no acknoledgement lol:rolleyes2:
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Im gonna have a play late as i believe the four green should still light by them on themselves and not altogether.Ok I'll add you too.
I put his up there because he did it with all 4.
It may require a diode for each led. But I'm not totally sure. Post your results please.
Right ive got the RF board to light up all red when the debug light is lit, and the rol goes as it should:cool2:
The trick is to use a dioade on each led to prevent the current going back down and lighting all the leds up.
Please dont slate the soldering in the second photo as this was just set up to see if it would work.
Personally if i do it again i would use the spare wires from your coolrunner and solder wire to the led, route the wire throught the small hole at the bottom of the RF board and then solder them to the diode and insulate or get a chok block and connect them that way.
[ame]http://youtu.be/jKURdIignNA[/ame]
The trick is to use a dioade on each led to prevent the current going back down and lighting all the leds up.
Please dont slate the soldering in the second photo as this was just set up to see if it would work.
Personally if i do it again i would use the spare wires from your coolrunner and solder wire to the led, route the wire throught the small hole at the bottom of the RF board and then solder them to the diode and insulate or get a chok block and connect them that way.
[ame]http://youtu.be/jKURdIignNA[/ame]
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Thanks for confirming that using the diodes stop the issue with all the leds lighting up.
Edit added your picture for the 4 diode method added to OP.
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- Mar 1, 2010
- 3,346
- 128
Yes I really need the get the new RF board sorted out. Try running a extra led in series with wth the exististing one. I wish we could flash the code from one rf board the the other. That way we could get the negitive to run constant and the positive to relay the pulse.I replaced the DBG LED for Blue, too, so internal has a nice blue sync'd flash tooThanks to everyone involved in this threads creation.
http://youtu.be/i27Pt008R2U
If I feel any better over the weekend, I'll play with Slim RF1410
- Mar 1, 2010
- 3,346
- 128
I'm just off out for some retail therapy as I've felt like sh*t for a week, then I'll maybe give it some time.
Thanks hope you get to feeling better and keep me posted on your progress. I had a 1410 come in last night so I'll be working a little on it today as well.
heres where i put my 1s i do just use soldering iron to make hole looks noice i like my slims to take a while to glitch haha!http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?p=503727#post503727