Photo for the diode wired to the RF board is the same for both installs and is in the OP.Can you show me a photo of how you have wired the diode?
Photo for the diode wired to the RF board is the same for both installs and is in the OP.Can you show me a photo of how you have wired the diode?
You can buy a pack of 50 for about $3 at Radio Shack.I think i found an 1N4148 Diode it is on a digital control
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The black line goes towards the RF board. The numbers tell you the value of the diode. so yes, it will have a 41 on one side, and a 48 on the other. or n41 on one side, 48 on the other.I matched it to an image of one on google and it has 48 on one side and the image on google had the same so i am gonna use it. the black line on the diode does it face the coolrunner side or the LED positive?
Picture will be added to the OP with credit given of course.For those of you who are concerned with the brightness of the LED's... yes, it will be somewhat dimmer. It's outputting about 3.2V for the debug LED, and you're now powering two LED's in place of the original. You can remedy this somewhat by bypassing the 68ohm resistor before the debug LED.
Here's a pic of where to solder.
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It should be, just try and see if it boots..Thanks I will leave mine alone it isn't hurting anything, but i did by accident touch the debug positive on some negative traces a few times cause i was trying to light up the original SMD on the RF board, is my coolrunner OK? it is only 3.2V but i want to be sure my coolrunner is OK
Glad to hear. I'm moving the power to the red side of the center led. That way It'll be orange when the console is on.just tried it out and everything works perfectly. now all i have to do is desolder the annoying red power led.