coolrunner on falcon shuts off after 10 mins

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raff5

Full Member
May 24, 2005
38
0
england
hi,
im hoping someone can offer some advice, i recently did a couple of coolrunner installs, however having read up a little before hand i decided i would leave the soldering to someone with more experience.
the first 2, a falcon and a 512 jasper went perfect.
problems with the 3rd one, its a falcon, used the coolrunner qsb's, followed ubers guide, wiring placement etc.
read nand using nandx and coolshrimp jtag tool. used the same tool to do the entire process. ended up with a falcon that boots into freeboot on first glitch attempt everytime (tried 30-40 attempts) i was very happy.
thats when the issue started. i tested it with my harddrive( off my fully working rgh), already has FSD installed and some GOD titles. started playing a game and approx 15 minutes in the xbox just shut off, no lights or any indication of a problem, just straight off.
if i turn it straight back on it boots first time, but powers off after a few seconds, indicating the problem is heat related, if i allow it to cool first, the shut off is back to minutes before it reoccurs.
having read lots of posts nearly all issues are around the soldering, i presume this is the case. as i did not do the soldering its not something i can check. the friend who did the soldering is happy to look at it, but i wondered if anyone can advise me where we should start. which solder connections maybe most likely culprits etc, if anyone has experienced similar fault and their findings/fix. i admit i'm a not the greatest at these things but can usually complete things with a good tutorial.
will be a shame if i have an rgh console that boots within 3-5 seconds everytime and its unusable.
i appreciate any help or advice offered
thanks in advance

raff5
 
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raff5

Full Member
May 24, 2005
38
0
england
hi thanks for the reply dgenx,
i just fired it up to check, when it shuts off the coolrunner red led remains lit, no change at all.
fired it back up into fsd just out of interest and brought temps up
cpu 45, gpu 60, mem 65, case was 36ish(no plastic casing on)
all seem ok, so its looking like the solder joints.
all the points following soldering were checked for continuity using a multimeter, but if its a poor joint that fails when hot, but ok on cold it would pass that test.
i'll recheck all the joints, starting with the stby_clk .

thanks again
 
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Mickey3177

VIP Member
Feb 2, 2011
301
0
Las Vegas USA
Make sure your CPU heat sink has been removed and all old paste cleaned off. Add new paste and reinstall the heat sink, I had this problem once and if the CPU isn't seated properly or has correct pressure it will shut right off with no question asked, just double check that you haven't somehow broken the thermal paste loose.
 
Dosk3n

Dosk3n

VIP Member
Feb 3, 2006
790
33
Newcastle upon Tyne
www.phoenxconsoles.co.uk
Yeah I actually have a feeling this is an overheating issue. If when moving the console when doing the hack, they have been holding it by the heatsink then they may have unsettled the thermal paste since its creap and dislodged easily.

Remove heatsink and add thermal paste again.

This happened to a Jasper I worked on. Some arctic silver paste and turning the fans up a little bit in FSD and now the GPU never goes above 53c.
 
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raff5

Full Member
May 24, 2005
38
0
england
Thanks for the responses,
Just out of interest are the temps listed above not normal? Suppose if 53 is your norm I presume with casing in place that 60+ is not good with casing removed sat on FSD dash screen.
I will pick up Some arctic silver on my way home from work and try the solution offered. I will report back later today with the results.
Fingers crossed it will be a simple fix.
Thanks again
Raff5
 
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D

diaboliq20

VIP Member
Jun 23, 2011
3,497
0
Scotland
if it boots up straight away after shutting off, then it's not an overheating issue - you would see either 2 or 3 red lights indicating RROD - it wouldn't cool that quickly.

My guess is it will be down to the soldering.
OP - did u manage to recheck yet? do you have nay pics we can take a peek at?
 
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raff5

Full Member
May 24, 2005
38
0
england
hi,
@dosk3n
the temps i stated were from FSD dash, which i was monitoring as it shut off, they are accurate to 0.2 i would estimate, if the probes that measure/FSD display is accurate.

if the concensus is to try refitting heatsink, clean and fresh thermal paste, i will give that a try.
arctic silver or ceramic? is one preferable?

@diaboliq20
i have my digital camera on charge as we speak and hope to have some photos uploaded asap.

i appreciate the help guys

raff5
 
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raff5

Full Member
May 24, 2005
38
0
england
right just to add, i have not reapplied thermal paste.
mainly as it will not sometimes from cold, i tried it this morning after being left unplugged for maybe 12 hours.
im still thinking this is a possible soldering issue, but i just cannot find it.
all the qsb solder connections have been checked and rechecked for continuity using a multimeter.
the only connection that gave me any doubt, was the one near the hana chip. it passed the continuity test fine though.
i had a feeling that the pad may have come loose.
in an effort to rule this out a very thin wire was soldered along the red line, then tested for continuity , starting from the right side of the resistor (hana side) all the way from the point on the board at the other end of the red line. (wire is clear of r1 on qsb)
(i tried to take a pic but the quality was very poor and the wire so fine it didnt help)
the 360 was then tested, worked for about 25 mins with no issues, restarted several times and still no issues, everything seemed resolved.
packed the 360 up and went home plugged it in and no power, no lights or fans, nothing.
left it for a while, and tried several times, get occasional fan noise or green light on ROL, even managed to get to dash once or twice, then it just shuts off.
not long enough to be heat related.
tried several power sockets, two psu's, hdmi and component cable
still no joy.
any ideas would be appreciated.
only thing i can think of is to remove qsb's, solder coolrunner direct to the points on the board. thing is the qsbs come with little double sided sticky pads, scared ill removed them and damage the board, making things worse.
 
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diaboliq20

VIP Member
Jun 23, 2011
3,497
0
Scotland
ok - so power is intermittent at best......
something has got to be shorting out somewhere - especially as you had it working, and after the journey it stopped - suggesting something was jarred in some way.....
not being funny, but there have you inspected the USB ports etc for any grounding issues?
have you tried botting with nothing attached?
 
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raff5

Full Member
May 24, 2005
38
0
england
yes i have just the mainboard/fans and rf board attached and nothing, then occasional fan or green light maybe a a boot as far as freeboot dash before it powers off, nowhere near long enough to be heat i would have thought
 
I

ibearby

Noob Account
Dec 3, 2011
4
0
california
i agree with whomever mentioned re-applying thermal compound.....but i would check your cpu-rst wire because this has been known to cause many problems due to interference with this....other then that i would check my soldering and if limited solder has been applied to the wires on the bottom make sure they are embedded in that solder......and last but not least did you check for bad blocksin your nand before creating your ecc image
 
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hakunamatatapl

Junior Member
Dec 11, 2011
13
0
Try this. Return to oryginal nand and play, if x360 works fine, you dont have overheating issue. I have exactly same problem with my jaspoer 512. I place coolruner directly on x-clamp for test and use very short cables. Its working well. Meybe worth a try.
 
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raff5

Full Member
May 24, 2005
38
0
england
Thanks for all the input, I will give the above mentioned a try, I don't think the thermal paste will help as I sometimes have no power from a cold boot (360 off for 12 hours plus)
I think it's soldering related, bad joint, or a short. It's proving hard to find though. Gonna try removing the qsb's tomorrow. This only leaves 5 solder joints. And makes the other areas more visible.
When I read the NAND originally I had no bad blocks, EEC image created fine, got into xell fine, got CPU key and created freeboot image without any problem. Programmed NAND and booted into dash ok. I played rage 360 game from god image on hdd. For 10 mins all was ok. Now I have intermittent power, random shut offs. Most times I cannot turn the console on, no lights/fans etc except for red led on coolrunner.
I'll post results of qsb removal tomorrow
Thanks again
 
x360ccm

x360ccm

BANNED
Jan 18, 2011
3,616
0
south coast UK
raff5 said:
Thanks for all the input, I will give the above mentioned a try, I don't think the thermal paste will help as I sometimes have no power from a cold boot (360 off for 12 hours plus)
I think it's soldering related, bad joint, or a short. It's proving hard to find though. Gonna try removing the qsb's tomorrow. This only leaves 5 solder joints. And makes the other areas more visible.
When I read the NAND originally I had no bad blocks, EEC image created fine, got into xell fine, got CPU key and created freeboot image without any problem. Programmed NAND and booted into dash ok. I played rage 360 game from god image on hdd. For 10 mins all was ok. Now I have intermittent power, random shut offs. Most times I cannot turn the console on, no lights/fans etc except for red led on coolrunner.
I'll post results of qsb removal tomorrow
Thanks again
Click to expand...
sounds like stby_clk point to me...:tongue:
 
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