Martin C
VIP Member
RGH Coolrunner only flashing once or twice
- Thread starter andynov123
- Start date
The pictures make it look a lot worse than it is. I was actually how surprised they came out. Where exactly do you see a problem? Afterall, I posted so somebody could identify something, not just tell me how bad it is. I need something a bit more constructive.
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dogeatdog
VIP Member
Please redo the soldering. Cut the ends a bit shorter to have less bare wire showing, just enough to create a solid connection. Use flux and pretin the points you are soldering to.
Also, look at ubergeek new pic for routing the wires on a phat. If that also fails, use 'my' method of wiring : blue wire goes topside and along the two heatsinks, tape it down. Yellow and green wire as short as possible.
And please, I know this is frustrating for you, but we've all been there. We are here trying to help you and as such don't deserve to be snapped at..
Martin C
VIP Member
The RGH is signal sensitive, so all wires must be insulated as much as possible. CPU_PLL_BYPASS for example is one which needs about 1mm of bare wire visible.
The PLL_BYPASS and the STBY_CLCK joints look iffy. I had a similar problem on a console where it'd flash green once and never boot. I narrowed it down to the PLL_BYPASS which looked beautiful but once i desoldered it and changed the approach of the wire to the pad, it worked perfectly. Maybe a cold joint or interference, i'll never know.
On a side note, all of the jtag programmer wiring at the headers....those are through holes in the board. You don't have to surface solder them and risk bridging/cold joints.
On a side note, all of the jtag programmer wiring at the headers....those are through holes in the board. You don't have to surface solder them and risk bridging/cold joints.
I had the wires on the other side at one point but when I kept having to remove the fan it got annoying. I will try to do a better job of soldering and keep insulation to a max. I didn't think that was a factor. It's increasingly difficult to solder since all I'm dealing with here is a now fairly blunt tip, solder, and braid. Is it ok if the insulation goes into the solder?
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Just to clear something up, i was refering to the 360 side of the wiring, not the coolrunner. When properly soldered, no insulation should be melting. You need to be quick and intentional when soldering small stuff, flux helps. There was a good post in these here forums a while back about good soldering habits.
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74165
Get a new tip if that one's shot. No sense in botching a good xbox when you can spend a few shills and do it right. Good luck & take your time.
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74165
Get a new tip if that one's shot. No sense in botching a good xbox when you can spend a few shills and do it right. Good luck & take your time.
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Ok here is the new and somewhat improved board. I am no longer getting any flashing lights as of now but I'm gonna post these pics cuz I'm proud 
Let me know if you think there needs to be an adjustment
As stated above, with this new "better" solder job I am no longer seeing any green flash (not even one in the beginning). I'm going to try to flash .ecc again and see if that does anything.
---------- Post added at 09:22 ---------- Previous post was at 09:20 ----------
Let me know if you think there needs to be an adjustment
As stated above, with this new "better" solder job I am no longer seeing any green flash (not even one in the beginning). I'm going to try to flash .ecc again and see if that does anything.
---------- Post added at 09:22 ---------- Previous post was at 09:20 ----------
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Martin C
VIP Member
CPU_PLL_BYPASS still looks VERY dodgy.
desolder and clean the point with flux and braid.
Tin the point with solder.
Cut the end of the green wire so it's neat. Strip back 1-2mm. Pre-tin with solder. Be quick and intentional (as suggested - great terminology - nicking that!).
Place your iron on the very edge of the point you've pre-tinned so it's just touching the solder. Feed the end carefully into the molten solder. Hold for a sec or two and remove the iron.
desolder and clean the point with flux and braid.
Tin the point with solder.
Cut the end of the green wire so it's neat. Strip back 1-2mm. Pre-tin with solder. Be quick and intentional (as suggested - great terminology - nicking that!).
Place your iron on the very edge of the point you've pre-tinned so it's just touching the solder. Feed the end carefully into the molten solder. Hold for a sec or two and remove the iron.
I don't like your "A" and "B" points they look too messy and you are coming in on the A point over the resistor, you be should coming in on the left where there is no point and your exposed wire is to long, could be touching other points, keep them short. Also what watt iron are you using?, all your soldering looks a bit cold and use some alcohol to clean the flux off, you will get a better look at your connections
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I was lucky and found a nice pointy tip which is the only reason i am able to make it this nice (to me). All that black stuff is just insulations that melted on the older tip and rubbed off. I used a multimeter to confirm good contact at that point. Notice you can barely see where the trace was scratched up to test for continuity. As for the B point, that resistor (the side closest to the target) is actually on the same trace. Thats why the alternate connection point starts on the other side of that resistor.
I will see what I can do...
nice lol ur soldering what is they call bad lol u need to practice a lot more before u can rule out ur soldering as being the problem. if the green light is not flashing then ur wiring or coolrunner is the problem
Here is a status report:
I stopped getting the green light altogether like I mentioned. So I decided to flash it back to original nand. When I booted it I got RROD 3 lights (0022). So I decided to desolder everything and when I did the xbox booted up fine. So I soldered the points back again and now it still boots up fine. So then I flashed the .ecc again and I got the green light back but it's doing the same damn thing as before where it just blinks once or twice. Here is the green and orange wires again. Tell me what you think now? The fact that I thought my soldering was ok the first time and now I've only improved the soldering and it's doing the same thing I'm starting to think this coolrunner is bad. How many reports of bad coolrunners are there? There is also the issue with the write error from .ecc since it is within first 50 blocks or so (49). So is there a way to write to .ecc and not see this write error? I'm starting to suspect that may be a bigger issue than I first thought.
I stopped getting the green light altogether like I mentioned. So I decided to flash it back to original nand. When I booted it I got RROD 3 lights (0022). So I decided to desolder everything and when I did the xbox booted up fine. So I soldered the points back again and now it still boots up fine. So then I flashed the .ecc again and I got the green light back but it's doing the same damn thing as before where it just blinks once or twice. Here is the green and orange wires again. Tell me what you think now? The fact that I thought my soldering was ok the first time and now I've only improved the soldering and it's doing the same thing I'm starting to think this coolrunner is bad. How many reports of bad coolrunners are there? There is also the issue with the write error from .ecc since it is within first 50 blocks or so (49). So is there a way to write to .ecc and not see this write error? I'm starting to suspect that may be a bigger issue than I first thought.
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Why does this thread say FIXED? There has nothing that has been fixed. You are preventing people who may actually be able to contribute from entering.
Martin C
VIP Member
Open your original NAND dump in 360 Flash Dump Tool, click on the bad blocks tab, take a screenshot and post it up
Martin C
VIP Member
ok - this is the issue. You MUST remap it.
I've not remapped with ecc before, so try this first:
nandpro usb: +w16 ecc_image.ecc (you've already done this, so great).
nandpro ecc_image.ecc: -r16 bb1.bin 49 1
nandpro usb: +w16 bb1.bin 3FF
Let me know how you get on. We may need a couple of attempts to get this right so bear with me.
I've not remapped with ecc before, so try this first:
nandpro usb: +w16 ecc_image.ecc (you've already done this, so great).
nandpro ecc_image.ecc: -r16 bb1.bin 49 1
nandpro usb: +w16 bb1.bin 3FF
Let me know how you get on. We may need a couple of attempts to get this right so bear with me.
I did those commands and they went through. The first one read the file, the second wrote. I then tested xbox and got 2 green flashes then same thing as always. I read nand back and still has block 49 error
Martin C
VIP Member
Yes, block 49 is bad. What do you think we're trying to do?
Did you try the commands EXACTLY, including plus and minus where specified ? If so, swap -r for +r in step 2 (reading the block we are going to move).
Post a pic of the commands too.
Did you try the commands EXACTLY, including plus and minus where specified ? If so, swap -r for +r in step 2 (reading the block we are going to move).
Post a pic of the commands too.
I thought those commands fixed it so I read the nand back to see if it was fixed. Yes I took note of +/-.
