Coolrunner somtines only sends one reset pulse

RROD!

RROD!

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Apr 13, 2011
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yer just looked odd mind better to make sure... hopefully it is like martin c said just the way the wires may run as that also makes a big difference..does make you wonder if putting the wires in heat shrink or somthing like would help ive seen a few guys say yes but ive never had to go that far myself to say ..as i get good boot times without have to try other things lol well so far anyway i am waiting for the console that is goning to give me big sh*te i know it out there some where just a matter of time i geuss we all get them one time or another
 
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RavenPhoenix

Senior Member
Mar 25, 2011
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Sydney OZ
www.consoleme.webs.com
Have you tried installing the caps to see if it changes the situation at all? I had encountered a situation before where a Jasper I had would only flash the glitch signal twice and then not flash at all. I installed a 68nf on A - ground and a 48nf inline on Pad D which helped with the glitching signal immensely. Having said that I really think that you should double check the PLL_bypass point first as mentioned by the OP.
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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The object that appeared there was in fact an illusion. You can actually see that it's the white trailing lines on the mobo that's picked up the reflection. I have to say I'm slightly disappointed as I thought it could have been a quick fix.

Does the soldering look adequate enough to rule that out?

I think my best bet is to continue to experiment with wiring positions and perhaps some insulation.

I haven't tried any additional caps thus far but it's another interesting suggestion.

Thanks for all of your comments so far, they are much appreciated.
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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Thanks mate. I'll give it a look through.

I've had a look at my soldering again and the green wire isn't the best. In fact there's very little solder there I can pretty much see the gear wire.

Could this be enough to make my Xbox not boot on the first attempt after plugging in?

It's only very rarely that the Xbox doesn't glitch first time, so perhaps that's my issue. If the Xbox doesn't glitch first time, it just gives up or thinks its been successful.

I've had a go at giving the wires a shift around but no joy. I think next steps possibly insulation and re-route completely (as per Martin's suggestion)

I'm not sure if anyone has been in exactly the same boat here?
 
RROD!

RROD!

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Apr 13, 2011
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sure buddy the soldering is important needs to be good joints so yer look over all your points again if you feel there not right
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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Thanks mate I appreciate your help.

I'm pretty much running out of ideas now. I'm just trying to read through all the forums and find anyone with the same 'cold boot' problem.

I think tonight I'm going to try Martin's suggestion of running the blue wire over the top of the board, although i'm going to have a hard job getting the glue off :\

I'm just amazed this issue doesn't seem very common. Either that or others have managed a half decent install ;) haha
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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That's right. I pull the plug as I don't leave both my xbox's on standby.

Plug in, switch on, fans glitch once or twice then the console just idles on black screen.

99% of the time after a power down (without removing plug) it'll glitch instantly after, and from there on in until I leave it without power for a while.
 
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KhaineGB

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Jun 19, 2011
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I've got a console that does this, and another that had this problem but I managed to resolve it.

Basically, it was down to my soldering in the CPU_PLL_BYPASS point (green wire). You might want to double-check that and maybe even re-solder it. Could also be worth re-routing before re-soldering. The console I did that to now works fine, and I haven't touched my own because I'm quite happy to turn it on, let it warm up while I make a coffee, then reboot it. :)
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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I can't tell you how happy I am to hear of somebody with the same problem :wink:

I think I may have to re-solder this wire as it's not my best work. I've been putting it off as it was an absolutely #@"! to get on. Perhaps I should ask my Mrs to hold the wire for whilst I solder it.

I think I may just try and re-do all of the connections and make sure i tin the wire before hand after clipping to make sure I don't get strands.
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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Right - I've spent most of this evening faffing round with the xbox and I believe I've made a much better connection with the PLL_BYPASS.

The point that was causing me trouble was the POST_OUT1. I removed this thinking I would improve the joint as there was little solder and I thought a quick jig with the wires wouldn't hurt.

Now, I couldn't get the damn thing on and when trying to remove the glue (further down the wire) I actually pulled the wire clean off, pulling a lot of the solder with it (DOH!).

There was only the tiniest bit of solder left, smaller than the point of a pin. I tried to add more solder but it wasn't happening and I was concerned about damaging the pad. So what i did was tin the wire with excess solder, line the wire up and apply the soldering iron on top and fixed it in place. The connection isn't as smooth as I would like it and I don't really think it's a great joint at all, but the console boots up just fine (I think the solder is joined to the board more than anything).

What i'd like to know really, is if the console is put at any risk from this solder joint not being too great? i.e. spontaneous combustion (obviously worst case). It's at this point that i'm really kicking myself for not taking any pictures before putting the thing back together.

I'll also update tomorrow when I get home from work, with if I've resolved the cold boot issue.
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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Still the same problem, one blink and it gives up. If anything it's now worse as i had to turn off twice before it would power on.

I think i may have to call it quits and live with it :(

Please find below images anyhow:




 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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Just in terms of a quick update - i've noticed that it does seem to function correctly if booting to Xell?

Strange.
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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Right, after watching some of Martin's videos (which are bloody brilliant), I gave the points another go.

I have made a much better connection with pll_bypass and my Xbox now boots as expected 9/10 times. Evening going through to send 2-3 pulses if necessary.

I'd like to give POST_OUT1 another go (as I believe this is the only remaining issue), but I can't seem to add enough solder to the point. It doesn't seem to want to stick to the pad. Do I need to scratch a bit off the board to reveal the metal? I'm using standard point ft6u7 or w/e.

Thanks guys
 
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DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
Just use flux and apply solder to it. No need to scratch anything away. Might take a few attempts but you'll get it.
 
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matt.xx

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Jun 15, 2011
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Ok I'll give it another go. I tried doing that earlier and it seemed to draw itself to the iron rather than sticking.

When I finally did get some in the board, I went to fix the wire in place and the iron sucked it up again :( lol
 
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