Corona 4gb questions

[Daak12]

What chip are you using? what dip settings (if any) and what wire lengths.

coolrunner cr3 lite, dunno about dip settings, standard/default length that comes with product (havent measured).
I tried 4 different corona timing files for hour+. Should I be using the glitch2m option?

someone suggested I should get a DGX instead claiming they work 100%.

I'm not touching my nand anymore until I have my cpu key. Ill just play around with settings for a week or two and then buy a new product. I'm 99.9% sure my soldering is good, with no bridging but I did run into a small snag:

I lifted a tiny post_out copper ring (on the back of CB) when re-situating it. I tried just dumping some solder in the little indentation left behind and it stuck fairly securely but now I want test the connection with a multimeter to be sure. Any ideas on how I would do that?

 

[Daak12]

Finally booted to XeLL!

Its not glitching reliably at all (5-10 min) but at least I know its a good chip and I didnt kill that Post_Out solder point.

Settings:
Corona 0-2
RST Cable 40 CM (under the xclamp point)
2-3 closed
JP open
Switch: slim

Since rewriting the nand with the updateflash.bin, it doesnt seem to glitch as well, if at all.

Does the hacked .bin use the same ECC file or is it different?

If I could see what essential files were on my nand would it be:
updflash.bin and ECC
OR
just the updflash.bin
OR
original nanddump1.bin and updflash.bin and ECC?

 

[Daak12]

I load ONLY the updflash.bin on the Nand.


It acts just like its glitched, green light stops blinking, the screen blips for a second but stays black.


If I load the ECC on the Nand, Xell will boot.

Update: OMFG, it was the stupid r/w Nand ribbon. Even though I set it to x360, it was enough to keep 360 from booting.


Okay tomorrow I'll work on some optimization and post my settings.

 

[rghpro]

I strongly suggest using a CR3Pro instead of that CR3Lite.

Assuming you are using a genuine TX CR3lite, which I do not believe by the way as they have not been in production by TX for a long time now, I would still not recommend it. The CR3Lite is a nice product an all, but the best TX product for your situation is a CR3Pro, a CR3Pro will get you nice boot times, as long as you use RATER to tune it to "Perfecto". A CR3lite will not compare, nowhere near.

I would like to add, I once used a fake CR3lite, I didnt buy it, it was brought to me by a customer, I told them it was not recommended to use, but they insisted anyway and they ended up with a dead SPI, which basically means you will need a new SB installed which can be much more costly than the price of a genuine CR3Pro, go with the Genuine CR3Pro, you'll be happy and get support from TX.