Corrupt files in Xbins?

ReMix

Console Freak
Nov 4, 2003
3,138
0
View attachment 79

if you are interested in fan modding, i suggest the 12v fan mod
here is a diagram of the underside of the power supply

you can hook up the ground and 12v connections to make your fans spin at max speed all the time

from my experience, it is no use trying to fix what isn't broken.
In other words, there is no reason to remove x-clamps until the xbox red rings

play it until it breaks, then fix it
 

lonplei

Senior Member
Dec 18, 2003
106
0
yea ive used the underside of the power import before, just wanted to see if usb was better, apparantly not, but i honestly have no idea what the power enable is on that picture, the blue one. what is it for?
 

lonplei

Senior Member
Dec 18, 2003
106
0
and another question,

i know that insalling these fans and what not will not prevent rrod but will at least prolong the life of my box.

do you guys think that replaciing the taller heat sink with a modified flat one that will fit in its place would be a good idea? because then i planned on doing kinda what the slim has, i was going to put a fan over it and then have the dual fans in the back going just to the gpu heat sink under the dvd drive.
 

mosely

Console Master
Nov 17, 2003
1,083
0
I do not think putting a flat gpu heatsink on the CPU is a good idea. It might just put get hotter on you. I would just mount a fan outside out of the console by cutting a hole in the top of the shell and sticking the fan on the outside if you wanna do that.
 

CooferX

Full Member
Dec 11, 2002
73
0
I have the gpu heat pipe fan mod, 12v fan mod, x clamp replacement/thermal paste, fan split mod and half covered cpu gpu to cowl with metal duct tape mod. :p Ive cut out the bottom of my metal case around the 8 xclamp screw holes (big hole) and placed a high cfm fan down there. then of course legs on the 360 to give that bottom fan some air. All 4 fans are running at 12v. It sounds like a jet, but Ive been doing this to boxes for 4 years and not one rrod.:cool: The only problem Ive had with these boxes are dead lasers and the occasional drive and fan that needs to be replaced. They have lasted this long with the proper cleaning and i expect many more years from them.

You can cure the temperature of the heat sinks all you want, but you also need to control the heat of the board. That is of course where the solder breaking is happening. Hey, proof is in the pocket book!
 

mosely

Console Master
Nov 17, 2003
1,083
0
You're already messing up the board by bolting down the heatsinks with screws. Pressure isn't the answer. You're only warping your gpu and cpu and reducing the chances of a sucessful reball once you do get RROD. Cooling down the chips themselves will cool down the board indirectly since the chips make the board hotter than it needs to be.
 

CooferX

Full Member
Dec 11, 2002
73
0
You're already messing up the board by bolting down the heatsinks with screws. Pressure isn't the answer. You're only warping your gpu and cpu and reducing the chances of a sucessful reball once you do get RROD.
The wibble wobble that is the x clamp is bolted to the board along with the supplied washers from the drawer. Gpu stabilization(pressure), along with keeping the board stable is the answer



Cooling down the chips themselves will cool down the board indirectly since the chips make the board hotter than it needs to be.
As you have stated, cooling the heat sinks into oblivion is futile. Stable lead free solder is perfect and called for, but that is not the case when the mobo heats up and bends repeatably. Obviously cooling the chips alone is not the answer.;) If your finding warped boards, than people are using the wrong size washers or taking a set of them out after a futile repair trying to squish it to the board. Ive taken a laser level to my repairs and they are level. High quality stainless machine screws are identical and perfect in every way. I can get non rrod 360 for about the price of a stick of gum. Repair is not the name of my game, keeping them running is and its been successful 100% of the time. Take it with a grain of salt, I'm here to help and share my EXPeriences. Although I will argue it home as I have actually had great success with my mods.
 

mosely

Console Master
Nov 17, 2003
1,083
0
The x-clamps distributes the pressure from the screws across the chips. That's why its on there. There is no perfect identical screws, they are always gonna be slightly different. Lead free solder is mainly the problem in all these console failures, 360 and ps3 included. Due to the constant heat-up and cooldown cycles, the lead free solder balls grow tin whiskers. These tin whiskers short circuit the chips leading RROD and YLOD. Get rid of the lead free solder under the chips replace them with leaded solder and cool them down to a acceptable level and you'll have a console that works for a long time granted that you reballed the chips correctly. I'm not trashing lead free solder completely. Lead free solder is perfectly fine for application where the temperatures don't go up and down as much as in the 360 and ps3. Yet, there is no denying that leaded solder is simply more resilient to these cycles.

What you're doing right now is taking working consoles and replacing the x-clamps and bolting down the heatsinks. So that's why you have a 100% success rate. The consoles are still a some time away from the RROD. You can claim that you are keeping them running but they are already working to begin with.
 

CooferX

Full Member
Dec 11, 2002
73
0
The x-clamps distributes the pressure from the screws across the chips. That's why its on there. There is no perfect identical screws, they are always gonna be slightly different.
I can have a screw so long its coming out the top of the case The washers I buy are more level than the case itself. Whats important is getting rid of that x clamp that doesn't distribute pressure evenly, its original screws cause the board float in mid air like magic pushing the pin that is in the center of the chip set and holding it close. That is causing a trampoline affect on the board when its heated and cooled. So in other words, I keep the clamp for its center pivot but also hold the board perfectly still on the outside of the chip set with screws and washers. In turn causing the board not to flex under the gpu and cpu. Tin whiskers are not the cause of rrod, one needs to take a look at the jasper and a Xenon running for 3 months. Hair line fractures in rock candy and a unforgiving environment are a serious problem. Another that Ive encountered while lifting gpus are what I would call heat rot. Heat damage to the mobo under the gpu chip set a softening of the board.

If a jasper gets rrod, Ill give you credit on your views of tin whiskers, but i heed the warning of the trampoline effect on that chip set too. I also never said the x clamp method alone is the answer, Ive also never seen my method done or explained by anyone other than me. In the meantime, stop trying to bend rock candy.

BTW, just incase you didnt catch that, I don't replace the x clamps, I modify them along with the way the heat sink is attached.


What I'm doing right now is taking a working console that should have died ages ago and kept it working like new. Well how many more years need to pass by? out of the 26 phat consoles Ive given my full treatment, not one is dead due to rrod. I consider those numbers astronomical considering the products were flawed from the get go.

Here: http://thebgastore.com/3RedLightsExplained.aspx

Ive also seen lead based bga fail on a few different tv models due to lack of support and heat issues. Supporting the cold solder joints alone does not fix the problem. It needs a reflow and support added. Of course someone who doesnt give a rats ass will not address the latter.
http://thebgastore.com/3RedLightsExplained.aspx
 

MillsForman

Noob Account
Feb 10, 2004
1
0
The x-clamps distributes the pressure from the screws across the chips. That's why its on there. There is no perfect identical screws, they are always gonna be slightly different. Lead free solder is mainly the problem in all these console failures, 360 and ps3 included. Due to the constant heat-up and cooldown cycles, the lead free solder balls grow tin whiskers. These tin whiskers short circuit the chips leading RROD and YLOD. Get rid of the lead free solder under the chips replace them with leaded solder and cool them down to a acceptable level and you'll have a console that works for a long time granted that you reballed the chips correctly. I'm not trashing lead free solder completely. Lead free solder is perfectly fine for application where the temperatures don't go up and down as much as in the 360 and ps3. Yet, there is no denying that leaded solder is simply more resilient to these cycles.

What you're doing right now is taking working consoles and replacing the x-clamps and bolting down the heatsinks. So that's why you have a 100% success rate. The consoles are still a some time away from the RROD. You can claim that you are keeping them running but they are already working to begin with.
Why do you try to say that the x clamps are better than screws??
Let's loock at pc cooling how it's the cooler for socket lga 775. If you say that screws aren't good than Intel it's stupid for making their coolers bolt on.

Regards
 

samhein

Noob Account
Mar 4, 2004
1
0
Had an XBox Elite red ring. Microsoft giggled at me so I took it apart. Mine had the "upgraded heatsink". There is a fluid in it. I can vouch as mine had actually blow out onto the board. It blew right where it comes out of the piece that bolt to the the heat sink under the DVD drive. I ended up getting a HD DVD drive and putting the drive in it externally and making mounts for two Dark Knight heat exchangers and modified the STOCK clamping system that CAME with the heat sinks to mount them into a PC. I just tapped into the wire harness coming up to the console and pulled 12 volts to feed the extra fans I put on from there. I did a bunch of stuff to it and will take pics if you want but it stays VERY cool and has lasted longer with my setup than the stock setup did. Gears of War 3 for 16 hours straight and never missed a beat. What I did involved patience, micrometers, patience, dremels, patience, wiring, soldering, painting, did I say patience? lol :)