GENERAL CR Glitch LED Mod for ALL Versions!!

T3chWarrior

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Hey guys, sorry I've been gone for so long. Just saw a lot of confusion with the CoolRunner LED mod options. Since superspeed's thread is so large I thought I would consolidate this process for everyone. I had planed on doing this back in may but got busy this summer.

Also, I want to take a minute to do what I have seen lacking in many threads lately and that is giving credit to those who started this work.
***************************************
Superspeed, Martin C, Sarah1331, theagent, ah9098, RROD, LoneWolf913

In this thread
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84252

you can find my original work buried in there, a lot of it isn't till around page 40.


Anyways, So to connect to the CR I recommend connecting before the led resistor on CRv1, on the new CR3 you just connect to the ROL pad.



There is a pin that is unused on both the Phat and Slim that can be used to feed to the ROL. This is pin 9 for a Phat and pin 4 on a Slim. Zephyr and xenon have a trace going to the South Bridge that needs cut, can be done right by the rol plug, Falcon jasper, trinity, and Corona ver 1, &3 don't have any traces that need cut, not sure about corona ver 2 & 4 but should be safe, if someone could help me check that out that would be awesome :smile:

Edit: we are currently seeing possible issues with Phat jasper/kronos with a RF02 rol board and are working on the problem.

Slim


Phat


There are two ways to do the LEDs, you can

A: Add an additional LED to the ROL which allows you to use any color you want

B: Use the leds on the ROL


Option A

This is my personal recommendation, just add a led to the ROL. all you need to do is find a ground spot to use, scrape the green coating off and attach the negative of the led to the ground and the positive side to the CR. Now the brightness of this will depend on the LED you're adding and which solder point you use on the CR. You also may need to add a 50 to 100 OHM resistor if you're using super bright LEDs.

If your CR debug led isnt flashing you need to add a resistor in line to the new led. if you dont you risk overloading the CR and killing the Debug led feed!!









Option B

The 1409 board uses common negative on everything but the error light from what it seams, which uses a 3.3v common positive.

So if your wanting to use anyting but the error light you can connect the positive side of the led to the CR and it will light. This method should also have a diode inline to prevent the coolrunner getting back voltage from the rol. This is not required on the cr3 since it has a ROL pad and they have included a diode in there design


The 1410 board uses 3.3v common positive everywhere

The phat boards use a 2v common positive

Since these ROL LEDs have what's called "common positive" which means the positive side of the LED always has power and is activated by providing ground or "switched negative". So the positive output from the CR needs to be inverted to provide Ground to the ROL LEDs to make them light properly. There are a couple of ways to do this with either a Relay or NPN transistor. I will show the transistor method, since it is smaller and cheaper.

The collector needs to be connected to the rol led negative,

the emitter needs to be connected to a Ground,

the base needs to be connected to the CR LED with a 100 ohm resistor in line.

this can be done on the bottom of the board on the rf plug





Since the Slim 1410 board has 3.3V common positive you will need a resistor on the gnd of the led.



heres a video

http://s1268.beta.photobucket.com/user/555greentech/media/CoolRunner LED MOD/2012-05-20_09-16-05_41.mp4.html

Let me know if I there's anything I left out, Thanks guys
 
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really_wacky

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Thanks for the tutorial, i have 2 corona's im going to put a coolrunner in. Corona v1 and V3 can i just try to solder it on the 4th pin or do you recommend i wait for confirmation that it doenst need tracecuts?
 

T3chWarrior

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Thanks for the tutorial, i have 2 corona's im going to put a coolrunner in. Corona v1 and V3 can i just try to solder it on the 4th pin or do you recommend i wait for confirmation that it doenst need tracecuts?
if you can get me some nice pics of the rf plug or compare your to my pic above of the bottom and this pic of trinity's top side with the plug removed and see if you see any additional traces that could be going to that pin. i really doubt it but until i know for sure i don't want anyone to try it.



Thanks
 

IronMan72

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Thanks for consolidating this. I remember reading through that thread some time ago but couldn't find the information last time I looked.

I've also considered adding an LED on the ROL PCB to indicate the state of the Demon. Too bad there isn't a second unused pin. Decisions, Decisions...
 

really_wacky

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This is from a Corona V3 (Halo 4 edition)

I dont know if this is enough i actually dont want to desolder the whole port, just soldering the wire directly to the coolrunner would be easier :D

From what i can see on this pictures it looks exactly the same as trinity



 
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T3chWarrior

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This is from a Corona V3 (Halo 4 edition)

I dont know if this is enough i actually dont want to desolder the whole port, just soldering the wire directly to the coolrunner would be easier :D

From what i can see on this pictures it looks exactly the same as trinity

Link To Image

Link To Image
No that's fine, i didn't mean for you to desolder the port, i just used my pic for a reference.

yeah i see no difference in that one, should be safe to use the pin 4 on that one, thanks for checking for me
 
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really_wacky

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No that's fine, i didn't mean for you to desolder the port, i just used my pic for a reference.

yeah i see no difference in that one, should be safe to use the pin 4 on that one, thanks for checking for me
Normally i will have the post_out adapter one of these days when as soon as i solder the CR3 in i will tell you the result :) But i cant see why it wouldnt work.

Thanks for the tutorial, its really nice that you can detach the RFboard this way.
 

Martin C

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Just an FYI, I'm pretty sure you don't want to be cutting the southbridge trace on any Corona (where applicable), as it's used to regulate the case temperature.

Try running the console without a RoL board and you might find the fans go a little mental.
 

T3chWarrior

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Just an FYI, I'm pretty sure you don't want to be cutting the southbridge trace on any Corona (where applicable), as it's used to regulate the case temperature.

Try running the console without a RoL board and you might find the fans go a little mental.
ahh, cool, good to know, did they come out with a new rol for the coronas too?

and so far the corona rev 3 that really_wacky showed pics of doesnt seam to have the pin 4 being used so they must send the temp data thru the com communications to the rol or maybe the usb but i doubt they would. there is more pins on the slim too than the phat, havent seen something that shows what all the pins do yet though, maybe one of the others carry that info...
 

TheGlow

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Just throwing my 2 cents in.
I tried this initially on my phat with the NPN transistor method just like in your pic, except I wired the signal all the way from the CR.
It would make, if I recall, the player 3 and 4 lights blink orange for the cycles. However it stopped the onboard CR LED from blinking.
I removed the transistor, and the onboard still doesn't blink.
Also, I tried the pin 9 trick and for me it tested as grounded.
 

T3chWarrior

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Just throwing my 2 cents in.
I tried this initially on my phat with the NPN transistor method just like in your pic, except I wired the signal all the way from the CR.
It would make, if I recall, the player 3 and 4 lights blink orange for the cycles. However it stopped the onboard CR LED from blinking.
I removed the transistor, and the onboard still doesn't blink.
Also, I tried the pin 9 trick and for me it tested as grounded.

for the transistor method it also says there needs to be a 100 ohm resistor on the cr lead, did you do that? if not it will send all the current from the cr to ground and wont let the onboard led light, and can overload the cr and kill the debug led output.

You can have the same trouble with just a led if you use one that takes to much current thats why its a good idea to use a resistor often times on the leds too. if its done right the debug led on the cr should still work.

im also not sure why 3 and 4 were lighting, and since it was orange im thinking you were activating both the red and green sides and that may have been why it was feeding to the other player, but that shouldnt have happened if it was done properly, ive seen a couple people do it and have run the tests myself on many versions of phat rols and this should work.

here is ubergeeks thread explaining the phat rol

http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84318

and ive used pin 9 on many phats with no problem, if it is a xenon or zephyr there is a trace going to the south bridge that needs cut but other than that there is no interference that i know of. what board did you try that on??
 
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Martin C

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ahh, cool, good to know, did they come out with a new rol for the coronas too?

and so far the corona rev 3 that really_wacky showed pics of doesnt seam to have the pin 4 being used so they must send the temp data thru the com communications to the rol or maybe the usb but i doubt they would. there is more pins on the slim too than the phat, havent seen something that shows what all the pins do yet though, maybe one of the others carry that info...
Yeah, it must be a new RoL. TBH I didn't spend too long with it as it was just a normal RGH. It did leave me scratching my head for a while until I replaced the RoL!
 

T3chWarrior

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Yeah, it must be a new RoL. TBH I didn't spend too long with it as it was just a normal RGH. It did leave me scratching my head for a while until I replaced the RoL!
so you put another rol on it and the fans were acting wonky till you put its rol back on... humm yeah must be a new one, yay lol
 

Martin C

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so you put another rol on it and the fans were acting wonky till you put its rol back on... humm yeah must be a new one, yay lol
Actually I didn't even go as far as that (although I reckon it would have resulted in the same).

I often test boards by using a media remote to turn on/off, so it had no RoL connected.
 

T3chWarrior

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Actually I didn't even go as far as that (although I reckon it would have resulted in the same).

I often test boards by using a media remote to turn on/off, so it had no RoL connected.

ahh i see, well will have to keep that in mind. thanks martin c

If really_wacky still has his corona rev c apart could you tell me what rf board it has? martin has me curious now lol. if its not a 1409 or 1410 could you put a pic up of it, I would appreciate it, Thanks!!
 
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Oggy

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They're no different, I use a Trinity ROL on Corona's. Using the trinity 1409 on a Halo 4 (also had a white 1409)
 
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TheGlow

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for the transistor method it also says there needs to be a 100 ohm resistor on the cr lead, did you do that? if not it will send all the current from the cr to ground and wont let the onboard led light, and can overload the cr and kill the debug led output.

im also not sure why 3 and 4 were lighting, and since it was orange im thinking you were activating both the red and green sides and that may have been why it was feeding to the other player, but that shouldnt have happened if it was done properly, ive seen a couple people do it and have run the tests myself on many versions of phat rols and this should work.

here is ubergeeks thread explaining the phat rol

http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84318

and ive used pin 9 on many phats with no problem, if it is a xenon or zephyr there is a trace going to the south bridge that needs cut but other than that there is no interference that i know of. what board did you try that on??
It was a Jasper. I had Martin C trying to help out but I eventually gave up, as it still glitches.
What was odd is I could detect pulses still going to that point, and also coming off pin 27 on the chip.
The onboard LED still lights if I short it.
I kinda of blocked it out of my head for now.
It's starting to get annoying as boot times are going up again. I got a 10 sec yesterday, but today it took about 20 mins.
I have to lean in to hear the difference in the fans to know its still glitching.