TRINITY [CR4]Trinity CR4 will not glitch

[DiGiTaL sPiTT]

[FIXED]Trinity CR4 will not glitch

I have a trinity I was successfully able to glitch last week. Boot times varied in between instant-1 min.

Now today it doesn't want to move a muscle. I am going to show you pictures, ask basic stupid questions to rule stupidity out, and then explain myself how I think I went wrong, and then let you guys decide hopefully.

First thing. Why I think it might not work:

I picked up the ethernet cord going into the console, the otherside shocked me, did I fry anything? Maybe the CR4?

What I did to test: Re-flashed stock nand...success! Console boots and console is banned (from last week lol)

So I re-created the Xebuild (didn't bother flashing ecc because I had CPU key) and it won't glitch. I tried flashing just ecc, still no glitch.

Left Xbox on overnight, woke up...still not glitch, just sitting there flashing green every 3 seconds.

My questions:

CPU_RST does not need to be soldered in my situation, right?
In Xebuild, I select Trinity, RGH2, and the CR4 option, right?
Recommended CR4 dip settings, resistance, Ohm jumper?

Thanks for reading and hope for quick assistance.

Pictures:

Notes: white wire goes from underboard CPU_RST to nothing, and the soldering seen below is not my best, just fast work, and blue wire is indeed connected, I assure you, I know it is hard to see, but it is in the right place.




Picture took in the middle of a glitch (green light does not stay on)

 

[BrockThunderjam]

So the white wire is just tucked away under the board not soldered? Sounds like you're asking for trouble. Or are you saying it's soldered underneath and not on top? Why dont you just desolder it? When you say you picked up the ethernet cord, are you saying you picked up the console by the cord? I dont understand what you're saying. It shouldnt have shocked you unless the cord is cut and you touched an exposed wire. Also, your "E" CR4 wire looks awfully close to that ground pad on the motherboard. Maybe you should trim it up and move it. And I can't see where your ground wire is soldered, but make sure it still is (I assume you've soldered to the AV port).

As for your questions...

My questions:

CPU_RST does not need to be soldered in my situation, right? If you're trying to glitch, yes it does.
In Xebuild, I select Trinity, RGH2, and the CR4 option, right? Yes
Recommended CR4 dip settings, resistance, Ohm jumper? Read the official guide.

 

[keil423]

The guide say to use dips 3-4 on. I've had several that worked best with just dip three on. Other worked best with dip 1-4 on.
If your getting a flashing green light I'd say your install is "good" and you just need to re tune it.
I'm working on one now that got a le gene score in rater and worked great for two weeks. Now it's back to me being re tuned. Don't know what happened it just started taking forever to boot out of no where.
You should still move that green wire a little to be safe.

 

[MTWallet]

<SNIP> that got a le gene score in rater <SNIP>

Sorry, I can't get my brain to fill in the blanks for what those words were supposed to be. I probably wouldn't care so much except that I just got my CR4 and DemoN installed last night and am about to do some tuning on it tonight.

 

[briggs01]

also I forgot how many times I have seen on here installs and the wires are so long , cut them down to size

 

[DiGiTaL sPiTT]

As for your questions...

My questions:

CPU_RST does not need to be soldered in my situation, right? If you're trying to glitch, yes it does.

If that's the case, then where does it go? The trace from R1 (top side of mobo) routes to point B on the QSB, which would then go to a coolrunner/cr4, however in the official TX guide, there is no such location. I did see thier R1 soldered, but the lead went nowhere, point B was not shown routed.

 

[DiGiTaL sPiTT]

Update: shortened green wire, no success.

 

[BrockThunderjam]

If that's the case, then where does it go? The trace from R1 (top side of mobo) routes to point B on the QSB, which would then go to a coolrunner/cr4, however in the official TX guide, there is no such location. I did see thier R1 soldered, but the lead went nowhere, point B was not shown routed.

CPU_RST is the blue wire that goes to pad D on the CR4. There are a few locations you can solder it to. If you're referring to pad B, it's STDBY_CLK, not CPU_RST. It is entirely different thank CPU_RST and is not needed since the CR4 has its own onboard timing clock. The QSB just has extra pads that arent needed for the CR4 is all.

I now see that you've soldered that white wire to the alt stdb_clk point (FT3N2). Desolder it. That may fix your problem immediately. Sorry, I should have seen that earlier but you referred to it as CPU_RST and it threw me off.

 

[keil423]

I think you confused on what your cpu Rst is. That would be your blue wore that you have installed already.

That non sense before was supposed to say "got a great score in rater"

 

[MTWallet]

That non sense before was supposed to say "got a great score in rater"

Thanks for the clarification on that. Love you're videos by the way!

 

[DiGiTaL sPiTT]

CPU_RST is the blue wire that goes to pad D on the CR4. There are a few locations you can solder it to. If you're referring to pad B, it's STDBY_CLK, not CPU_RST. It is entirely different thank CPU_RST and is not needed since the CR4 has its own onboard timing clock. The QSB just has extra pads that arent needed for the CR4 is all.

I now see that you've soldered that white wire to the alt stdb_clk point (FT3N2). Desolder it. That may fix your problem immediately. Sorry, I should have seen that earlier but you referred to it as CPU_RST and it threw me off.

Yea I meant STDBY_CLK, sorry I made it more difficult. But the white wire is gone but no success. Just hooked up the RATER and it has said boot sequence commence over and over for 70+ times now, any other advice?

 

[MTWallet]

Just hooked up the RATER and it has said boot sequence commence over and over for 70+ times now, any other advice?

I'm by no means an expert, but on my trinity that I just fired up last night with CR4 & DemoN I had trouble getting it to glitch with the recommended setup. I finally got some results with DIP3/0ohm and DIP3&7/0ohm. Also got it to fire off in both of those DIP settings with 10ohm. Then I found out a florescent light I was using over the bench was causing some kind of interference because when I turned it off and tried what WAS the best setting, the first three glitches were 7,6 and 8 before boot where before they were 1's and 2's. I have also read that some systems needed the 10 or 22pf cap included with the CR4. For my box, I also bought the IPEX cable just because it was so cheap but didn't use it initially. I am going to switch that out first before I go back to DIP tuning.

 

[MTWallet]

Update: shortened green wire, no success.

Yellow and blue to underside of board could probably stand to be shortened as well.

 

[Antalpromille]

There are your logs?

 

[keil423]

Still sounds like tuning is needed.

I always recommend that you flash back stock and verify that boots still when you run into a brick wall like this.

Also be sure when testing with rater to have either hdmi or standard audio video hooked up. Otherwise the console won't fully boot.

 

[DiGiTaL sPiTT]

There are your logs?

Still sounds like tuning is needed.

I always recommend that you flash back stock and verify that boots still when you run into a brick wall like this.

Also be sure when testing with rater to have either hdmi or standard audio video hooked up. Otherwise the console won't fully boot.

Success! Finally booting!

What I did to fix:

So basically I stopped being lazy and removed the Xclamps and re-wired and re-lengthened the yellow and blue wires. (so thats green, yellow, and blue wires all shortened now)

turns out the POST_OUT was barely soldered. INSTANT BOOT NOW!!!!!

Thanks for all the help