RGH Damaged R2C7 and R2C6 points

GSIBOY

VIP Member
Nov 30, 2011
534
33
Cape Town
Hi guys

Corona 4GB V4


Hoping somebody would be able to help me. I tried to bridge the points mentioned, but could not get it right i then took a piece of Kynar and tried to bridge it but then also could not get it to work. The debug light would flash one long bright pulse and then every 5s quick faint pulse

Please find attached the pics needed to see what i need to do in order to fix it, and also when correctly bridged. i wrote my stock nand back to test and console still boots correctly.

How can i test to see if the points are correctly bridged? via Multimeter etc

Any help would be appreciated, if you can show me how i can repair those 2 points or alternate points
 

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alexander_1333

VIP Member
Jan 10, 2012
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Slovakia
Its still no glitching. The debug light pulses like normal but doesnt glitch. Will post some pics later.

Do you perhaps have a standard settings setup that i can use for a Corona V4?
Can you hear the fan slow down when debug led is flashing?If yes there is another issue.As above fill out the rgh template (fully).
 

GSIBOY

VIP Member
Nov 30, 2011
534
33
Cape Town
If it's still not glitching I guess its time to fill out the rgh template (fully) so people can see your setup and advise what to do next
Can you hear the fan slow down when debug led is flashing?If yes there is another issue.As above fill out the rgh template (fully).
Ok here is my updates :)

TX Product(s) used: Nand X and CR3 Lite
Console Type: Corona 4GB V4?
NAND size: 4GB
Dashboard version: e.g 2.0.16547
Screenshot of NAND details from J-Runner:


Description of problem: Does not want to Glitch. Green light pulses but no xell

Was the console working before you started: Y/N

Do you get a green debug light appear on the RGH chip every 4-5 seconds: Y

How long is the light on for each time: about 1 - 2s

Attached pictures
 

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BL4K3Y

VIP Member
Jul 7, 2010
13,721
118
Colne, Lancashire (UK)
Are E and F from the CR3 Lite soldered to the correct pads on the motherboard?

The "F" point is next to 3.3V and "E" is directly above it (or below it if you solder those wires to the top of the board).

Have you created and written an ECC image to the console's NAND?
 
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GSIBOY

VIP Member
Nov 30, 2011
534
33
Cape Town
Are E and F from the CR3 Lite soldered to the correct pads on the motherboard?

The "F" point is next to 3.3V and "E" is directly above it.

Have you created and written an ECC image to the console's NAND?
I used the "E" and "F" point underneath the board as requested earlier by a member as i needed to use alternate points for R2C7 and R2C6

Yes i wrote the ECC. I dont have my log as i restarted my PC and i did all of the working on the Xbox yesterday
[h=2][/h]
 

Martin C

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Jan 10, 2004
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Scotland, UK
www.team-xecuter.com
Are you 100% sure you have E & F round the right way? You didn't have to solder them to the underside. They are through-hole points, so you can repair the damage underside then install topside.
 

GSIBOY

VIP Member
Nov 30, 2011
534
33
Cape Town
Are you 100% sure you have E & F round the right way? You didn't have to solder them to the underside. They are through-hole points, so you can repair the damage underside then install topside.
Will resolder them top side and post pictures. Is my repair correct though? How is the rest of my soldering?

Martin, it would be great if you could create another one of your videos like previous for bridging those points. Cant believe i messed it up.

Learnt alot from your previous videos.

Console still boots stock and works if reflashed with stock nand
 

BL4K3Y

VIP Member
Jul 7, 2010
13,721
118
Colne, Lancashire (UK)
Is my repair correct though? How is the rest of my soldering?
Console still boots stock and works if reflashed with stock nand
You can bridge those pads using very small pieces of kynar wire or you can use 0 Ohm resistors.

I find it easier to bridge them with solder - you need to drag the solder across both pads to make the connection.

The rebuild underneath the board looks fine to me.