Maaaan BL4K3Y, i tried that and got a bit eager and rushed it. Will report back shortly
RGH Damaged R2C7 and R2C6 points
- Thread starter GSIBOY
- Start date
Ok ive resoldered the wires topside. But now when the console tries to glitch the green,debug light blinks faint and quick every 5s. Previously it was bright
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BL4K3Y
VIP Member
Does the red LED also appear dim?
Make sure the ground wire is soldered correctly.
Also, cut your CPU_RST wire to fit - I find that this works better on Corona boards than a long CPU_RST wire.
Red LED is bright. Will trim the CPU_RST wire to fit. Is there an ALT ground point on the board instead of the chasis
Martin C
VIP Member
BL4K3Y
VIP Member
There's something I didn't know
.OP: Check that the wires underneath the board are still soldered to the pads.
It's possible that a wire was desoldered from the bottom of the board when you soldered one on top.
Martin C
VIP Member
Yep - if there's an issue with I2C on a cr3-lite / rev C, the debug light will be as fast as an RGH1 install
Ok, i went over my wires again and trimmed the CPU_RST wire as per BL4K3Y request and now the debug light is going normal. Bright green, and 5s per pulse but no glitch
I think i need to try some settings if you guys think my soldering is fine. Any standard typical setting i could try? Ive got 1 and 5 on LK closed and everything else open and 3-2 timing file
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Martin C
VIP Member
I tried all timing files with 1 and 5 on with slim and with phat setting for a minute each and nothing. This must be the worst console to glitch. I think i must tell my brother i cant get it going. I dont have a slim proto to try. Maybe i must try with LK 2, just dont like bridging those points
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Tell me about it
Wish i had a slim proto
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Well I dont use TX Chip - only chips I used front he TX line was the CoolRunner Rev. C and it was a clones lol.. first time ever purchase a chip...
for Slim console I prefer Squirt or X360Run . I dont have nothing again the TX Product gets 2 thing some of them are very expensive.
end 2,, squirt end X360run have less problem to resolve with it come down to it..
I think you console have this problem from the moment you damage those points..
So i recommend you check those point or try a using 30 AWG Kynar Wire
for Slim console I prefer Squirt or X360Run . I dont have nothing again the TX Product gets 2 thing some of them are very expensive.
end 2,, squirt end X360run have less problem to resolve with it come down to it..
I think you console have this problem from the moment you damage those points..
So i recommend you check those point or try a using 30 AWG Kynar Wire
BL4K3Y
VIP Member
I have used all TX chips (CoolRunner, CR3 Pro, DGX/RGX, Slim Proto and R-JTAG) without any major problems.
The majority of problems are down to the user either not knowing what he/she is doing and jumping in feet first or not following the guides and tutorials posted on the forum (find me a TX product without a guide on how to set up and use it).
In the OP's case, he just needs to find the optimum set up for his console which includes CPU_RST/POST_OUT length and the CPU_RST signal (the wave/shape of the glitch is changed by adding caps and/or resistors to the CPU_RST line - this is what the CPU_RST cleaner is for).
Martin C
VIP Member
Saying that, on stock settings and minimal lengths of POST and CPU_RST wire, you should be booting SOMETHING on one of the timing settings.
OP - this isn't a case of the console not being able to be glitched. You may have to concede you're not the person to get it going.
OP - this isn't a case of the console not being able to be glitched. You may have to concede you're not the person to get it going.
Yeah it should have booted something by now. If my soldering is fine. Then it must be one of the jumper settings. Going to keep on trying until i get it going. Thanks for all the help so far
Decided to work again and trying settings. But still cant get it to boot Xell. Anybody have any other suggestions?