TRINITY Debug LED not blinking at all while booting after CR4 is installed

mattbruv

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2015
4
0
Hi all. A buddy and I have spent the last 4 hours trying to RGH my Xbox Slim Trinity with a Xecuter CR4 XL and J-R Programmer bought from here: http://www.modchipcentral.com/store/Xecuter-CR4-XL-RGH/JTAG-SLIM-and-PHAT-USA-Canada.html

I am on the latest dashboard, 17489.

We have been following this video throughout the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKCKQMuuTP8

What we have accomplished tonight without any issues:
  1. Disassemble XBOX
  2. Solder in wires for J-R Programmer
  3. Read/saved original NAND
  4. Mounted CR4 XL
  5. Soldered wires to CR4 XL according to the above referenced video (except for red power)
  6. Reassemble the console with no power to the CR4 to see if it boots properly (it did)
  7. Solder the power to the CR4
  8. Connect J-R Programmer to PC to create and write the .ECC file

So right now we are stuck on timestamp 1:10:40 in the video above. He is trying to boot up the Xbox and do some debugging by counting the number of green LED flashes in order to fine tune the CR4 to boot quickly. The problem we are having is that we aren't getting any kind of green LED light at all on the CR4 (the power light is good). There are a few things we might not be doing right which could cause this, but I honestly have no idea where to go from here. Switches 3 & 4 on the CR4 are enabled as recommended by that video.



  • We don't have the Xbox plugged in Ethernet -> Router as he does in the video when we are trying the step at 1:10:40. I don't know if this matters completely because he said it isn't necessary but helps speed up the process. Is this necessary? We are working on it out in a garage far from a router.
  • The CR4 switch was set to "Phat" by default and we didn't notice until after the first time the .ECC was written and we were wondering why we had no green LED flashing. We tried powering off and switching it to "Slim" and re-creating/re-writing the .ECC with the switch in "Slim" mode. This made no difference but it probably needs to stay on "Slim"

I've read a bunch of threads on this topic and the solution is usually pretty specific to each person. Here are some pictures of our job so far, so hopefully you guys can look at this and try to point us in the right direction. We didn't take any pictures of the underside of the motherboard because at that point it was in the case already and we were too tired to take it out to take more pictures. If you need images of the back, we can get them uploaded later tomorrow, just please let us know. We soldered the two wires on the back the same as the guy in the video.

Thank you in advance for the help, you guys rock! I've also attached a video where I briefly illustrate our problem.

[video=youtube;4iNKl4V-j34]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iNKl4V-j34[/video]









 

mattbruv

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2015
4
0
I noticed something peculiar about the dip switches on the CR4 after posting this thread. 3 & 4 are clearly enabled, but it looks like every single other one is almost centered!? Could this be the issue? all except 3 & 4 should be in the "Off" state, and from the picture it looks as if they are in the center by default. Thoughts?
 

ins0mniac

VIP Member
Oct 8, 2014
225
0
turn all dips off and turn 3 and 4 on

also if the green light is not flashing every 5 seconds, check the connection of the yellow wire on the bottom of the motherboard - post out connection. ( you didnt take a pic of that or the blue cpu reset.
 

Nintendo

VIP Member
Sep 5, 2014
605
33
Spain
Connect your CR4 to Rater in order to test post.
 

mattbruv

Noob Account
Sep 29, 2015
4
0
U have attached your postbit jumper wrong. That's why there is no green light flashing.
well spotted .... we were all herping derping
If you don't mind, could you please elaborate on what we did wrong? It's not immediately obvious to me.

From a bit of reading, the Postbit Jumpers are apparently labeled P1 on the board:



Which are shown here:



Now if I compare the default to the image of our CR4, we can see the difference:



It appears that by default we have some kind of black cap sitting across the top, starting at the top 10 Ohms column, and ending at the top 100 Ohmns column.



Are you guys saying it should be oriented on the entire 0 (Default) Column like so?



If this isn't what you mean, could you please clarify?
 

ins0mniac

VIP Member
Oct 8, 2014
225
0
yes, the way you currently have it is wrong, it should be vertical, not horizontal - the last pic you have its the correct way

looking at your pic the pot bit jumper is 10ohs - 100ohms - 0 ohms.

try it jumping 0 and if that doesnt work , try 10, then 100 ...if it still has probs glitching, trim yellow and blue wires as short as possible and retry
 
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