DG-16D4S 0225 Epoxy Removal and Replacement - The Easy Way

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Ubergeek

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Feb 24, 2003
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#1
DG-16D4S 0225 Epoxy Removal and Replacement - The Easy Way

By Podger & Ubergeek


1. The Liteon DG-16D4S Drive :)




2. Remove the 4 case screws using a Philips screwdriver.




3. Eject the tray (you can use a CK3 or the Xbox itself for power).




4. Peel back the acoustic foam that sounds the tray opening.




5. Holding the foam away from the case, remove the case lid.




6. Spindle motor ribbon connector: Separate the black retention clip from the white housing. The ribbon will pull out easily.




7. Laser motor ribbon connector: Separate the black retention clip from the white housing. The ribbon will pull out easily.




8. Laser data ribbon connector: The white retention clip pivots through 90 degrees. Gently pull the clip upwards.




9. The ribbon will pull out easily.




10. DeSolder the tray sensor and tray drive motor wires (5 wires in total).




11. Remove the PCB retention screw using a small Philips head screwdriver.




12. Release the PCB retention clip and ease the board out.




13. The PCB is now safely removed :)




14. To avoid heat damage to plastic, wrap the PCB in a few layers of aluminum foil.




15. Press the foil to locate the MT1335WE chip. Cut a small window in the foil to expose the MT1335WE.




16. Make sure that the window is large enough to expose all the epoxy.




17. Using a heat gun, heat the area on low heat for 45 seconds. Then try the epoxy.




18. The epoxy will initially go brittle.




19. Heat the area again on low heat for another 15 seconds.




20. When fully heated the epoxy will lift cleanly.




21. As you can see when heated at the correct temperature, the epoxy starts to break off in large pieces.




22. Don't try to go too far, reheat the area on low heat for another 15 seconds.




23. When you hit the sweet spot, it lifts very easily.




24. As you can see, it is very clean.




25. Don't forget to re-heat regularly, on low heat for another 15 seconds.




26. Continue onto the other sides.




27. Clean up any lingering pieces of epoxy.




28. Apply plenty solder to all the pins. The trick here is to use old fashioned lead solder. It melts at 180 degrees, 37 degress lower than the newer Lead free solder. So the chip will lift long before any of the other parts can. The excess solder makes it easy to see when the solder is molten and helps spread the heat evenly to all the pins.




29. Heat the area continuously until the solder begins to melt. There is epoxy under the chip. Use an xacto knife to prise chip away from the PCB.




30. The chip will come away easily. Remove the heat.




31. The lift is clean and all pads are intact YAY \o/




32. Use braid and a soldering iron to remove the excess solder.




33. There is still a lot of epoxy in the area that was under the chip.




34. Re-wrap with foil, heat the area and remove the epoxy. It is also a good idea to clean all the pads with isopropanol alcohol after you have removed all the epoxy.




35. A job well done !




36. Place the new chip. The trick here is to not use the corner pins for alignment. You will notice the corner pads are larger and can throw you off. Use a the pin 1 in from the corner pin. Align one corner and solder 1 pin. Move to the opposite corner and correct and misalignments, then solder 1 pin. Check the 1st corner again and all pins to ensure they are nicely positioned.




37. Apply flux to the pins and let it dry.




38. Solder all the remaining pins...You may want to use a microscope at this point :)




39. TA DA !




40. The tools you need.. all cheap ass, apart from the microscope.

 

forzac4

Noob Account
Mar 26, 2011
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Jordan
#9
just wow!! thanks, but i'm still buying the board!!
 

Flashy

VIP Member
Jan 9, 2011
247
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Mostly at home
#12
Thanks for sharing the info with us. It's highly appreciated!

What about the switch for the write protection. Is it plain and simple soldering on a few points or does it include some kind of trickery?
 

tusel

Noob Account
Apr 2, 2011
60
7
0
#14
Nice tutorial, thanks a lot - maybe one suggestion based on my experience. After chip removal and desoldering rest of solder using wick clean the PCB with isoprophyl-alcohol.This makes later chip aligment and soldering easier.
 

marshamods

VIP Member
Mar 7, 2010
1,908
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ohio
#15
the aluminum foil keeps the hot air off the surrounding components and stopping them for blowing away. Kapton tape could also be used for extra safety :)
 

jamie321

VIP Member
Mar 3, 2010
237
12
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N.wales
#17
Unless you have very steady hands, i would go for the PCB at £39.99

looks like a very small chip and not a job for the average jo.
but great info and pictures.:D
 

Ubergeek

Noob Account
Feb 24, 2003
6,272
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California, USA
#18
Thanks for sharing the info with us. It's highly appreciated!

What about the switch for the write protection. Is it plain and simple soldering on a few points or does it include some kind of trickery?
Doesn't get any easier:

Switch WP=0 >>> WP Protect ON

Switch WP=1 >>> WP Protect OFF



 

krier023

VIP Member
May 30, 2010
249
10
0
#19
Good job on this tutorial.

Even though you are spoonfeeding people with amazing tutorials and info. I believe many people that think they are pro modders will try this and rip many pads, and ruin chips.

It is good you created pcbs, because the majority of average people will not be able to do this.
 
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