RGH Failed RGH, messed up STBY_CLK, trying to resurrect board

[drogy]

Hi. So i got this board as faulty after failed RGH. Don't know anything else about it but the only obvious thing wrong is the STBY_CLK which is lifted and resistor missing. Console doesn't boot. I get the beep but no fan spin, nothing.
i tried the traditional fix but no luck. i tried with no resistor and 100ohm resistor. tomorrow i'll get the 33ohm and try that too.
Now, my question is, should the 2 squares be connected? http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11855779/IMG_8508edit.jpg because my multimeter shows no continuity between them. if they should be connected, i'm gonna try soldering to the point closer to the hana chip, but i need someone to check. thanks!

 

[WestCoastConsoles]

Take the 33 ohm resistor follow the trace from the pads back a ways to another pad clean this off with an exacto and tack your resistor to those two points. If you bump it you will rip the trace/pads a slight twist will do the same if you don't feel comfortable soldering I wouldn't even attempt it.

Your going to want to solder from the pad closet to the hana all the way back to the last pad it connects to this will give it some breathing room if you screw it up the consoles pretty much toast. It will become a whole lot harder to repair after that.

I'm going to add one other peice of advice maybe try adhering to a trace first and work back to the pad this could give some working room if more is lifted.

I prefer working pad to pad

 

[drogy]

i'm confortable, i've done it before, never lifted pads or anything. the problem is i don't have continuity between the 2 red squares in the picture and i want to know if i should have it. that's all.

edit: don't worry, i won't lift anything, but thanks for the concern i'll get 33ohm resistor and get to it tomorrow, thanks!

 

[Martin C]

Of course you should - can't you see the trace under the green screen layer? You could actually answer this yourself if you had the right tools for the job. A fibre glass pen is what you need here to clean the pad and connected trace.

Don't even bother attempting without the right tools, regardless of how comfortable you are doing it.

 

[WestCoastConsoles]

I'll remove my statement martin will give you the best advice.

 

[drogy]

martin, as you can see in the pic, i already used a fiberglass pen on it to expose the pad so i could get a continuity check. now that i look closer in the picture, you can actualy see the connection i was asking about, but i was unable to see it with just a magnifier. thanks!

 

[Martin C]

Probably a good idea to put some flux on that pad and get some desoldering braid to it. The pad's probably ok still but you have nothing conductive at the surface of it to check. You may also need to expose some more of the via next to it in order to check for continuity.

 

[cskalash]

Make a bridge from the first square to somewhere along that track. Don't forget the 33 ohm resistor 1/4w or 1/2w

 

[Krafter]

1/2w is huge and will be a pain in the ass to work with. I'd suggest you go with an 1/8w resistor.

 

[trippy86]

i would suggest taking martins advice

 

[drogy]

thanks guys, for all your advice. still one hour before the electronics store opens i'll return with end result pics.

edit: ok, so it's bad news.. repaired the STBY_CLK and it's still dead

- i took Martin's advice and first took some braid to the pad. afterwards used the fiberglass pen on the point closest to hana. then took continuity check between pad and point and sure enough, it was ok, so the pad is fine. here's the pic: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11855779/IMG_8512.JPG

- after that i soldered some kynar wire (30awg) and soldered it to both legs of a 33ohm resistor. after that i used some shrink tubing over it to eliminate possible shorts. here's the pic: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11855779/IMG_8515.JPG
- i did various continuity checks and it's all good. after that i tried to turn it on and still nothing. i get a verry faint and short buzzing sound like the fan would try to spin up but fail. it doesn't move at all though...

here are some pics of the other points that have been soldered to previously:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11855779/IMG_8516.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11855779/IMG_8517.JPG
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11855779/IMG_8518.JPG

- also, i checked some voltage points on the board and i get 3.3v and 5v but no 12v anywhere. i'm not sure if there should be 12v in standby, but maybe the info is important. If anyone has any ideeas, i'm willing to try anything. i got the board as a weekend project so i'm not gonna miss it if anything goes wrong

 

[drogy]

sorry for double posting but this is a different issue. i wanted to check what the nand had on it thinking maybe the previous owner flashed the wrong image to it. i got all sorts of errors (and not from the soldering) so i went to check voltages using Martin's guide and here's what i got:
1 = 0.02 - 0.04v
2 = 3.29v
3 = 0.03 - 0.05v
4 = 41.5ohm
5 = 3.05v
6 = 6.57kohm

after that i searched for ways to erase the nand and stumbled upon some post saying to try erasing imediately after plugging the power and it worked. after this i wrote back the original nand i got from the owner (which i checked in 360 flash tool and he has 3 identical dumps so it's good) and it wrote ok. then i tried reading it back and i get error 218 on every block. Here's the nandpro log with all the stuff i did: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11855779/nand.txt

edit: ok, this makes no sense... i tried shorting pins 44-47 on the nand and i was able to again erase it succesfully. after erasing i read it back to check it was blank and it read ok, i got a 16mb file of FFFFFF. then i wrote original bin back and it was succesfull but when i tried reading it back i got 218 error on every block. I let it finish reading just to see if it could read at least one block but it was all error 218. after this i took the resulting file that was read with all the errors and compared tho the original bin. i got about 7k differences but most of it matched and even more surprising, the error bin was opened in 360 flash tool showing retail trinity and all the normal info you get except for SMC version which is 0.0
would this be a nand or southbridge issue? i can send links to both nands (original and the one i read back) to anyone who can help. one other thing i noticed is after i plug the power to the board the southbridge gets warm to the touch - check with IR thermometer and it went from 23 celsius to 34 celsius and stays there. rest of the board doesn't change more than 2 celsius in some areas.

i'm gonna take a break from posting as i think i'm flooding you guys with information.

 

[Martin C]

make sure you power cycle the console and NAND-x when reading/writing.

plug the PSU in first, then the NAND-x.

EDIT: if you're still getting issues, then post a pic of your STBY_CLK fix.
EDIT#2 - scrap that - looking at pics now.
EDIT#3 - did you definitely get a 33Ohm resistor? What's the wattage of it?

 

[rico-ilha]

I still prefer to use nandpro 2.0b

 

[drogy]

33 ohm 1% 0.6W resistor, i can take a picture of it if you want. i've also checked with my multimeter and it's 33.4 ohm
i'll try power cycling spi programmer and console when reading / writing nand but this was never an issue on any other console.
i'll also try nandpro2.0b

edit: tired power cycling after every nandpro command. i erased, power cycle, wrote original, power cycle, read back - error 218 on all blocks. and i used nandpro2.0b. what's error 218 anyway? cause i can't find it anywhere.

 

[Martin C]

So there's an issue elsewhere which you need to find. Because you bought this as faulty (which you should never do unless you know how to fix at component level), you don't know what's already been tried.

 

[drogy]

well, it was a good bet on STBY_CLK being messed up and it wasn't too expensive so i taught i'd give it a shot... any tips on how i should go about troubleshooting it? right now i'm looking at either nand or southbridge issue.

 

[Martin C]

Does your NAND work on other boards ok?

 

[drogy]

i'm sorry, i'm not sure what you mean. my spi flasher, yes, i've done about 20 RGH and countless JTAGs before that using it.

 

[Martin C]

Have you tested it since this one?