Falcon(RGH) No Signal

MrOzzySan

Junior Member
Feb 1, 2012
17
0
The first problem i had was that i could not read/write to the nand anymore, removed the little qsb and solderd the wires directly to the motherboard. (problem fixed, i can read/write again)

After i got that problem solved i noticed that 1 of the fuses was missing arround C1D7.(i hope that this 1 isnt that important....)

Also while trying to remove the small QSB i screwed up a line that goes to the nand, but i fixed that problem aswell (pictures included)

After i got rid of all the problems(i assumed) i glitched my falcon, and when i turn on the xbox 360 the CoolRunner flashes green 1 time.
After that Xbox just stays idle and doesnt do anything, neither do i get a signal on my tv.

Pictures:
http://oi41.tinypic.com/2wcnn8x.jpg
http://oi43.tinypic.com/351v0g4.jpg
http://oi43.tinypic.com/2ilulf.jpg
http://oi43.tinypic.com/358xttg.jpg
http://oi42.tinypic.com/whjg5x.jpg
http://oi42.tinypic.com/2ppdaw2.jpg
http://oi39.tinypic.com/6prup1.jpg
http://oi43.tinypic.com/x4hg92.jpg
http://oi42.tinypic.com/mvooi1.jpg
 

MrOzzySan

Junior Member
Feb 1, 2012
17
0
i also rgh'd a Xbox 360 slim console, while using the same tutorial (FiB3R's) that 1 worked straight away, without any problems at all. (i personally find the phat console harder to do then the slim)
 

Modz Inc

BANNED
Dec 26, 2011
98
0
I believe that part that is missing is a very important part on your xbox....just try and salvage it from a next dead falcon and see if it performs
 

tonyjandc

VIP Member
Dec 30, 2011
481
0
london uk
also to note try uncoiling green wire . I must say look for pics by martin c tuck green under xclamps no need to coil it up

---------- Post added at 07:37 ---------- Previous post was at 07:35 ----------

move the yellow i bit more to the right
 

H3rmaN

Full Member
Dec 4, 2011
97
0
NE Scotland
To be honest what you should have done is test to see if the console worked after doing the trace repair to the NAND, etc and before doing the RGH.

Not to mention MS did not put the capacitors there for the fun of it. If C1D7 is missing then there is an open circuit where it would otherwise be. Fit a replacment from another board and start from there.
 

MrOzzySan

Junior Member
Feb 1, 2012
17
0
To be honest what you should have done is test to see if the console worked after doing the trace repair to the NAND, etc and before doing the RGH.

Not to mention MS did not put the capacitors there for the fun of it. If C1D7 is missing then there is an open circuit where it would otherwise be. Fit a replacment from another board and start from there.
The trace repair happend after the RGH
The console used to work, but it went off after playing 20 minutes or wouldnt boot up the next day, so i thought that the connection wasnt good enough, blablalbla screwed it up, then fixed the trace.

The trace fix should be good, otherwise i could not read/write the nand i think ? :confused:
 

H3rmaN

Full Member
Dec 4, 2011
97
0
NE Scotland
TBH I would revert back to stock, replace that missing cap and then test it. Once you get it booting as a retail console again redo the RGH again.
 

axelll

VIP Member
Mar 1, 2011
469
17
Everywhere
Unsolder CR, write your original nanddump.bin back to the console and see if it's booting into the dash.
 

axelll

VIP Member
Mar 1, 2011
469
17
Everywhere
The resistor burnt when you soldered NANX-X module. I tested the C1D7 and it's a 90 ohms resistor. What I would do:

1. Repair all traces, including the C1D7
2. Desolder CR
3. Write the original NAND Back
4. Try to boot dash. If it's booting then
5. Re-solder CR
 
Last edited:

JayDee

Full Member
Mar 4, 2003
50
0
Sweden
1: Soldering (most of it) looks good enough BUT the length of the exposed wire on some are just a short waiting to happen!!!

Pre-tin the wire and cut it off so it MAX 2mm, and solder that in (use flux!). Having it 6-8mm stripped as it looks like you have on some is just crazy!

2: Make sure you you solder back the missing SMD, no point in doing anything before this is done...

3: Start from scratch! When something is botched, make sure you start with something that works in an original state. No point in trying to RGH if not sure if it boots up "virgin". Feels sh*tty to start over, but sometimes thats the fastest way to finish!
 

H3rmaN

Full Member
Dec 4, 2011
97
0
NE Scotland
I tested the C1D7 and it's a 90 ohms resistor.
:facepalm: See the bit I highlighted in red above, the "C" part of the code, it means CAPACITOR, not resistor.

Yes it has a resistance, everything has an electrical resistance, but the main thing he needs to know is the capacitance, or better yet, take one from another board and use that, it will be identical and therefor definately work.

Resistors begin with "R" and also all the resistors are black, capacitors are brown. Looking at a board right now an C1D7 is 110% a capacitor, not a resistor.

@ the op, do as me and others have said. Put it back to stock, and get it working. Once you have it working again on the retail NAND, go and do the RGH again from scratch.
 

MrOzzySan

Junior Member
Feb 1, 2012
17
0
Okay, Thanks guys, will try!
now all i need is a spare Capacitor xD
and another thing, disconnecting the CR is done by de-soldering the wires from the CR right, nothing else?
 

H3rmaN

Full Member
Dec 4, 2011
97
0
NE Scotland
Okay, Thanks guys, will try!
now all i need is a spare Capacitor xD
and another thing, disconnecting the CR is done by de-soldering the wires from the CR right, nothing else?
If you're in the UK, PM me your addy and I'll pop a spare cap in the post tomorrow for ya.

As for reverting to stock you also need to put your retail NAND back on.
 

MrOzzySan

Junior Member
Feb 1, 2012
17
0
If you're in the UK, PM me your addy and I'll pop a spare cap in the post tomorrow for ya.

As for reverting to stock you also need to put your retail NAND back on.
I would like that, but im from the Netherlands, i dont want to ask too much of you.. :eek: