ANSWERED Falcon RGH worked at first now doesn't boot

solidsnake666

Junior Member
Apr 2, 2009
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everywhere
I posted this yesterday in the coolrunner forum, but I currently can't reply to my thread. So apologies for the double post in 2 places for the same issue, I can't help it.

You can view the details and pics at the following thread:

http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78810

I took the hot glue off the bottom points without damaging anything. The solder points all remained intact. I tested all the solderpoints with a multimeter and they're all making a good connection. I also moved the wires as was suggested in the other thread.

Still no dice. The coolrunner lights red and the console does not power on at all. Any other ideas? It would be greatly appreciated.
 

Martin C

VIP Member
Jan 10, 2004
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Scotland, UK
www.team-xecuter.com
These are 1st line suggestions.

Unless you have a reason to suspect that the NAND has been badly written to, or the STBY_CLK has been played with, it's not these.
 
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solidsnake666

Junior Member
Apr 2, 2009
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everywhere
just rebuild the nand and reflash
Thats the issue... I can't even reflash. It doesn't pick up that the nandx is connected when i use nandpro30 to try and read or write the nand. I can connect to it to push the timing files to the coolrunner so I know the app and nandx are working.

When I try on the NAND I get the message
"Looking for usb interface device
No device found"
 

Anobix

Full Member
Nov 15, 2010
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USA
Yep, double check all of your soldering to make sure all of the points are setup properly. As well as any QSBs, it's possible when you were disconnecting the nand-x cables that you loosened/cracked some of the solder holding them down.
 

solidsnake666

Junior Member
Apr 2, 2009
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everywhere
Do the fans kick on for a split second then stop or is it no power at all?
No power at all. only thing that lights up is the red LED on the coolrunner. No fans, no LED's, no nothing. I'm going to check all the soldering again later when I get home from work.

When I removed the cables after flashing with nandx everything was still working. I made sure to push down on the QSBs so they wouldn't lift while unplugging the nandx cables.
 

x360ccm

BANNED
Jan 18, 2011
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south coast UK
No power at all. only thing that lights up is the red LED on the coolrunner. No fans, no LED's, no nothing. I'm going to check all the soldering again later when I get home from work.

When I removed the cables after flashing with nandx everything was still working. I made sure to push down on the QSBs so they wouldn't lift while unplugging the nandx cables.

STBY_CLK is damaged
 
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cicero44bc

Full Member
Dec 1, 2011
67
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Stratford Upon Avon
I have the exact same issue - have you tried disconnecting the psu for approx 30mins and then tried again? The only reason I ask this seems to cure my issue for about 2 mins, then the console turns off and then is completely dead except the red coolrunner light, just like yours. Not trying to hijack your thread by the way, I'm thinking in terms of sharing troubleshooting! In my case its not temperature of GPU, MEM, CPU or case, I watched until it shut off. I also checked soldering and continuity between points including after it turns off (incase somethings expanding when warm and breaking a circuit). I also ensured that no points are in expanding-and-then-touching distance of the chassis and creating a short. I also swapped the RF board (recommended after some googling) - I don't know if you've tried any of those and what you found? It sounds to me like something somewhere restricts power when it gets hot then while still hot prevents a power back on - possibly R4B24 which is the resistor on the STBY_CLK track, could anyone with a bit of experience in this area post their suggestions :) If my issue sounds different to this please accept my apologies and let me know so I can start a separate thread.
 
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cicero44bc

Full Member
Dec 1, 2011
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Stratford Upon Avon
Right I've solved mine. As everyone said its an STBY_CLK issue. If you have one; test continuity with a multimeter between B on the coolrunner and the contact nearest the QSB on resistor R4B24 - basically testing that whole part of the circuit which can be broken down to pin point the problematic part. Using a jewelers magnifying glass I could see a VERY small seam between the contact on the track on the motherboard and the end of the QSB. I added flux and re-heated the solder and viola, has been fine playing a game for 45mins now, no cutting out then totally dead issues like yours. I think the motherboard was expanding and breaking contact in my case but if you aren't already consider that you may have a similar issue or the track may have lifted in which case check out the very useful alternate points post. I hope this helps you.
 

cicero44bc

Full Member
Dec 1, 2011
67
0
Stratford Upon Avon
Sorry, after my rambling I re-read your original post and can see you've already tried as I've suggested. Using your multimeter test your R4B24 value, it should be the same as the others in that strip at 33/34ohms. I've seen a number of these issues being due to the resistor in question being fried. Luckily a 24p trip to Maplin can get you all fixed. Quick find M33R. Dont worry about it not being surface mount, it'll work exactly the same. Hope this is more useful.
 

Leggy12

Junior Member
Dec 19, 2011
11
0
England
I have the same sort of problem read lots that says this is the case but i measured across the resistor and exsposed some of the trace wire and it probes ok. but will not power on. It was working till i left it for a week.

Can it be anything else. I left the nand wire connected over christmas.