Fragging Xbox -- How to test for blown LPC connections?

[deigo]

I am currently having one hell of a time installing an X3 into a v1.0 xbox (US Version).

Steps:
1) I started off by using solder wick to remove the solder from the LPC holes
2) Then I installed the Pins, HD LED, Lan LED, D0 point
3) Next, I boot the Xbox, installed 1959 v1.0-1.5 bios version via FlashBios 3.0.1
4) Rebooted... no video or sound
5) Tried SEVERAL time to resolder points 13 and 14 on the LPC... still no luck on video or sound
6) After 4 attempts... I completely removed the pins and opted for the wire install. (Note: I might have damaged one or more of the holes of the LPC... I used a Ohm meter to test and everything appeared to have checked out... but I am a novice at this so I really don't know what I was doing... see below for my steps on Ohm's test.)
7) I used the solder wick once again to clean up the LPC holes
8) Completed the wire install... then tried to boot... FRAG! Xbox boots with a Red indicator light on bios selector and the system flashes between green and red on the eject button.
9) Did another Ohm test, checked all the solder points (all have the wire barely poking through the opposite side with solder only found inside the LPC holes.)
10) Still no luck ... and I have exhausted all my options

Ohm test that I tried twice:
1) booted the xbox until the system remained at the blinking red and green
2) while xbox was still running, I removed the X3 from the wire install pin adapter
3) using the meter grounded by the side of the xbox, I touched each point of the adapter looking for some sign of voltage.
4) every pin with a wire except pin 14 had some sort of current passing through
5) my conclusion is that I fried the hole for pin 14... then if that is the case, I should get the no sound/ video error NOT a frag. (Alittle confused on this.)

What I am looking for:
1) What is the proper method for ohm testing?
2) If I did fry one or more lpc holes, is there a diagram somewhere that would show an alternate solder point.
3) Is the mod chip fried if it boots with a red light and frags?
4) any other bits of advice...

Words can't express my thanks for any help you can provide,
Deigo

 

[Audi90Quattro]

The testing you did was def not OHM testing. Ohms are a measure of resistance. You just measured voltage.

Unplug your xbox and take your ohm meter and put one lead one, one part of your testing sch as the lpc hole, and your other lead on the other part of the piece your testing.

If its good you should get very little resistance or a beep if it has a built in diode checker. If you get alot of resitance or it says OL or some type of error for overload, then somethings wrong.

I used my FLuke 87-IV to check for continutiy on the pinheader and D0,lan,hdd wires. Got continuity on all of em and chip worked fine.


When you get no video or sound, what AV pack are you using? Until you flash the bios I believe you must use the standard AV pack. Not the high def or S-Video one.

 

[Audi90Quattro]

To find an alternate solder point you just have to follow the trace.

Are you sure you soldered to the right D0 point? On the v1.0 boxes they are different from the 1.1-1.5.

And when I first soldered my D0 point I had my box upside down and did it by counting holes. I ended up soldering to the wrong spot, and when double checking my work, fixed the problem.

Did you tape off the alt 5.5v pin?

 

[deigo]

Audi90Quattro,

Thanks for the reponse... I am 99% sure I have the right D0 point soldered for the simple reason that if it wasn't I would have never been able to load a bios using flashbios. (But I will check to be sure.)

I will also give your Ohm test a try on each pin to check for continuity.

Other Items:
1) I used all Microsoft AV cables/ controllers/ etc for the flashing
2) First thing I did was to tape off the 5.5v pin with some electrical tape
3) I plan on testing the X3 in question in my "correctly" modded xbox to make sure I didn't fry anything during my voltage testing.
4) If all else fails, I am going to hunt down alternate solder points and hopefully post an image for the rest of the community if everything works out.

Thanks again Audi90Quattro
-Deigo

 

[deigo]

For those that are have lpc problems much like myself... these look promising:

http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/lpc-diag.php
http://www.utahxboxrepair.com/pictures/xbox/mobo?full=1

 

[andrewlane]

I had the same problem... It definatly weren't the chip either. I put my chip in a friends xbox and it loaded up perfectly....

You ony want to chase pins 13 and 14's tracks.

I used a x2 bios in the end, used a program to create the 256k bios into 4 which made it the 1m and flashed that. It worked...

I then knew that the x3 uses two more pins than the X2 and this is why it worked, flashBIOS works on the same principle as the X2.

If you do trace the tracks and do a good job of it, i would like to see your handy work as im going to have to do it soon too...

Looking forward to seeing your handy work on this forum....

Andrew

 

[deigo]

Current Symptom: The X3 logo on the bios selector will ONLY shine red regardless of the length of time the button is pressed and if both buttons are pressed. The xbox also frags after it shuts on and off approximately 2-3 times.

General stuff: I followed the ideas and methodology found on these pages:
http://www.xbox-scene.com/articles/lpc-diag.php
http://www.utahxboxrepair.com/pictures/xbox/mobo?full=1

Contiunity Test (AKA Ohm test): While the xbox was off, I placed one the multimeter's probes on the contiunity test point and the other on the matching wire in the wire install harness.

Voltage Test: While the xbox was on, I removed the X3 from the wire harness and touched the red probe to each of the wires in the wire harness. (Note: black probe was grounded to the metal side of the xbox.)

After completing both tests, the results are as follows:
Pin 1 (Black) -- 0 volts* || less than 1 ohm
Pin 2 (Brown) -- 0 volts || less than 1 ohm
Pin 6 (Red) -- 5 volts || less than 1 ohm
Pin 7 (Orange) -- 2.9 volts** || less than 1 ohm
Pin 8 (Yellow) -- 2.9 volts** || less than 1 ohm
Pin 9 (Green) -- 3.2 volts || ?? (don't know test point)
Pin 10 (Blue) -- 2.9 volts** || less than 1 ohm
Pin 11 (Purple) -- 2.9 volts** || less than 1 ohm
Pin 13 (Grey) -- 0 volts || ?? (don't know test point)
Pin 14 (White) -- 0 volts || ?? (don't know test point)
D0 -- less than 1 ohm

(*) -- Should this be 0.2 volts for a version 1.0 xbox?
(**) -- Should these 2.9 volts be 3.3 volts, or is this okay? (Note all blue leds on X3 shine brightly)

Basically, I have exhausted every option other than soldering new wires to each of the continuity check points. If you have any advice or tests I should try please post them when you get a chance.

Thanks,
Deigo

 

[andrewlane]

Any one know where i can get hold of a replacement LPC pin thingy... ive had to remove mine cos i didn't realise i couldn't put a 2.3b lite plus in a 1.6 board... but there was no way of getting that out cleanly...!!

Thanks for your help

 

[deigo]

Andrew,

I removed mine from the board by CAREFULLY lifting the plastic portion of the pin connector off the board. Once that was completed, it is as simple at applying just enough heat with the soldering iron to each pin so that you can lift them from the holes.

You might have to use some solder wick (basically braided copper) to remove the solder from the LPC holes after the pins are removed, but other than that you should have a clean LPC.

The final step is to go online OR to your local electronic store and find a matching pin connector.

Other side note, It might be easier for you to leave the solder in the LPC holes and do a wire install (if it comes with the 2.3b lite plus).

Good Luck,
Deigo

 

[andrewlane]

Yeah all a bit too late for that... took about 2 hours to get to the stage were at and luckily for me i work at a big electrical company.. i just wanted to know whether you could buy them online?

 

[O001]

i just wanted to know if the lpc connections was blown and you remove the chip, would the xbox still ok? Or is the lpc connection ok and the problem is the chip?

because few days ago something happened to my xbox. one of my friends said he smelled something burning and he doesnt know where it came from. i wasnt sure if it could be the lpc part but when i removed the chip the xbox works normally.

 

[deigo]

O001... In my case the chip is 100% fine. The problem is my LPC holes which in some the connections appear to be absent of metal of any kind. Because of this, no connection is being made and the chip can't work.

It sounds to me, like you need to check your solder and make sure that none of the pins are connecting. Because, I think you might have shorted out your chip.

Also, just because your chip may have shorted out doesn't mean it is totally worthless. I ran across a topic on this forum about someone who fixed his shorted X3 by simply soldering another wire. Hunt around for your answer, and post a new topic if you can't find anything.

Best of Luck,
Deigo

 

[Xecuter]

easy solution. send your xbox and chip to someone who knows how to install these. should take them around 2-5 minutes to get everything working and wont cost you much.

cus if you spend THIS much time on it and cant get it to work then trust us when we say you will never get it to work

 

[O001]

i mean if one of the lpc was blown and the modchip isnt installed to it, will the xbox still work. in another word, will the xbox still work with out the lpc because im not sure which is burnt the chip, the lpc or something else? i have a 1.0 and the xbox with the chip was working for about a month and a half. then one day something burnt out and the chip doesnt work anymore. xbox still works good when the chip isnt conencted.