Out of the frying pan...
Well... thoroughly lost now. I pulled the chip and removed the pinheader - Xbox worked perfectly. Ok so maybe it was something with the chip itself... nope. Works fine in another. Installed a new pinheader (though I don't see what could have happened to it after it had been installed - this is what I get for teaching someone to solder on a REAL Xbox... Ugh. Never again. I'll find some old dead PCB for that. Anywho, I dropped a wire install header in, powered on... fragging. Using the power button to disable the chip boots fine. Argh. Bad solder. Inspect the whole thing, remove it and re-install it (btw in the past I've never once had an error with a pinheader as these are fairly large solder points and easy to work with, so I'm pretty sure of my soldering skill...) Still nothing. Ok so let's install a header again. Off to Walmart to get a new solder sucker (those little snot-sucker things for babies work great and are 1/4 the price for the same device) - Dropped it in, soldered it, powered on the system, everything's fine, MS dashboard etc. Cool, cool. At least my friend didn't damage my mobo it seems. Drop the X3 back in and it frags. Holding the power button to disable the X3 works, the system goes into MS-Bios and the MS Dashboard fine now, but the X3 is fragging. I pulled the board again, closely inspected every single solder point, everything looks perfect. I can't see a single dry joint (and I've redone each one 3 times to be sure) they all look perfect, I visually inspected every single visible trace on the board in case something had happened to one - no damage that I can see, even under a very powerful jewelers magnifier (lighted) so nothing there... Hmm... I'm lost. I'm looking for specs right now to do a continuity test with each pin from the top to the appropriate place on the board, but although I found a good guide for a 1.6 for a few points, and a guide for which pins are what on the LPC header, I can't seem to find anything that shows the corresponding points elsewhere on the board so I can check it. Any ideas or could someone point me to a proper guide as such for a 1.4? Worst case I may have to buy a new mobo but I'd RATHER keep this one functional, as it's the original board for my HALO edition box. I realize it was my fault for letting someone else touch the box, and that's not happening again, but if at all possible (especially with the 6 blue LEDs I've run on this thing off the 12v header on the underside of the board) I'd like to avoid changing out the board. That and I won't be able to afford one for at least another 2 weeks which would be kinda annoying. Any info would be awesome, especially diagrams. Thanks again.
-ArtemisKitty