Help Ive done 2 fats but this is my 1st slim & it wont boot xell

[Clay.r.08]

please read and tell me what i should do becuse i have checked the solder many times but this is my first slim, im just wondering maybe i have a slim that is not really a trinity although everything on the intenet says that it is a trinity

I have installed coolrunner on a jasper 512
and on a flacon hdmi

So i thought i would try my friends slims but im not sure why i cant get xell to load and give me the cpu key

maybe someone knows something i dont like just because you have the hana chip that doesnt mean you can rgh it

i updated it lastnight to the latest dash 14699 i did this for the other 2 360's that were fat models that i rgh sucesfully

it has the hana chip i see it and it says "Hana" on it
the manufacture date is 9-17-11
back sticker say 12v 10.83A

I soldered nand x to motherboard and read the nand with cool shrimps jtag tool v4.25

read nand again and compare them and they both matched perfect

created a ecc in 360_Multi_Builder_v0.7
i selected the number 1 for trinity retail image only
i had the 16mb trinity nand read in the multi builder > dadta> my360 saved as nanddump.bin

i then went and wrote the ecc with coolshrimps jtag tool 4.25

i installed coolrunner to mother board but xell not loading to give me the cpu key

i have erased the nand and wrote back the original nand a few times and it still boots up and works just fine but when i try to write ecc to it again then it wont boot into xell and give me cpu key

i have been trying to make sure that know one has found out that for some new reason not all slims with the hana chip can be reset glitch hacked

because i have checked the solder four many hours trying to make sure i have it connencted correctly

i have never undone the wires for nand x
that never made a difference with the fats so i have not tried that yet

i have searched to see if their are newer or better xsvf filfes for programing the coolrunner because i use coolshrimps jtag tool 4.25 to program the coolrunner

im redownloading the coolshrimps jtag tool and multibuilder just to make sure its not because i was moving around files inside them on my last rgh's

 

[TilVl]

Read the stickies. You need to post pics of all the soldering you did and also wire routing.

Sent from my SGH-T839 using Tapatalk

 

[Clay.r.08]

ok, thanks for the heads up on the pics, i will try to post pics soon

i will take that coming from a vip member with 636 as there is probably no reason its not working other than my wires, and make thoughts about not rgh all hana chips are not going to proven to be reasonable at least not at the prsent with the current information available on the intenet

unless there is something someone knows that has not posted in this thread

 

[chappersjohn]

ok I had problems with slims with booting into xell how long are u leaving it to boot because I had one that took 2 minutes for the first then every boot after first was between 5-10 seconds I was able to to get better boot times with tweeting the blue cable thou but they do have mixed results

 

[reefz3ro]

I could not get my slim to boot until I put the slim post qsb on it and it booted under 10 seconds first time with the post qsb on it. its hopfully just the length or position of your CPU_RST wire. +1 for pics to see whats going on there.

 

[XJonnyGunsX]

I had a Slim that would not boot until I switched the Coolrunner to PHAT mode. (Give that a try.)

I'd definitely agree with reefz3ro, with the length and the positioning of the CPU_RST.

As said, it can take a while for the first boot into Xell. I had one Slim sitting on the bench, trying to boot into Xell, while I made a cup of coffee. That took around 3-4 minutes for Xell to finally load up. (Sheesh!)

Best of luck!

 

[socalbill]

If your soldering is good (check with loupe), and your CR is programmed correctly, and your ecc file is built correctly and written to your nand, then it's the placement of your cpu rst wire.

Try running your wire like I do. I have done 50+ slims like this, 6 in the last two days, and every single one of them has booted within 30 secs.

Also after you're done with your wiring, put the MB back in its cage before booting. For some reason, the signal or harmonics in the rst wire bounce between the MB and cage and it boots faster than just the bare MB on the table. At least this is my observation, of course it could just be in my head.

 

[Martin C]

ok, thanks for the heads up on the pics, i will try to post pics soon

i will take that coming from a vip member with 636 as there is probably no reason its not working other than my wires, and make thoughts about not rgh all hana chips are not going to proven to be reasonable at least not at the prsent with the current information available on the intenet

unless there is something someone knows that has not posted in this thread

You should have had pics at the ready. Being a noob here means the stickys were the first place you go to, including my roadmap for noobies thread.

If you didn't have a glitchable slim, you would have known about it by now.

So:

1. Pics of your solder point.
2. Pics of your wiring.
3. Screenshot of your NAND in 360 Flash Dump Tool (if you have a 'bad blocks' tab, click on it).

 

[Clay.r.08]

If your soldering is good (check with loupe), Also after you're done with your wiring, put the MB back in its cage before booting. For some reason, the signal or harmonics in the rst wire bounce between the MB and cage and it boots faster than just the bare MB on the table. At least this is my observation, of course it could just be in my head.

i did what socalbill said with the long blue wire
and its working

i couldnt have done it without you guys, thanks

i have a magnifying glass but its no where near as good a loupe

i did not know what a loupe was so i googled it

A loupe (

/ˈluːp/ loop) is a simple, small magnification device used to see small details more closely. Unlike a magnifying glass, a loupe does not have an attached handle, and its focusing lens(es) are contained in an opaque cylinder or cone. Loupes are also called hand lenses (or nose lenses - see below).