Help needed with Coolrunner REV C (maybe broken or bad soldering)

[Arie1]

Hi,


Few days ago I received my Coolrunner Rev C and J-R Programmer. The first steps of the install process went very well but after writing the new NAND and simultaneously changed the Coolrunner board to 1-2 closed and cap closed - the XBOX wouldn’t boot up again. Hope someone can help.


Initial Setup:
XBOX 360 Phat Jasper 512MB
Dashboard version 14717
Coolrunner REV C
J-R Programmer
J-Runner v0.2 BETA (278)


Here is what I have and what I have done:
1. Connected J-R programmer, soldered wires directly to motherboard
2. Read NAND (two identical roms, no bad blocks)
3. Flashed Coolrunner (RGH2, XVSF A)
4. Writen ECC to NAND
5. Removed JP from Coolrunner (needed for RGH2), Left 2-3 closed, Left CAP open
6. Connected Coolrunner directly, soldered wires directly to motherboard
7. Booted up XBOX (Xbox Startup led, blinked rapidly and coolrunner blinked on each glitch attempt, after a while it booted!)
8. Booted up again to see how long it took. Same amount of time, counted +/- 18 glitches
9. Took picture of keys
10. Back to J-R Programmer
11. Created imaged with following settings::
a. Newest dash 15574, Glitch, RGH2, DashLaunch Patches
12. Written NAND
13. Changed Coolrunner to try to improve glitches, JP still open, Changed 2-3 open to 1-2 Closed, and closed CAP - didn’t do anything strange here, but the board might have become a bit hot – perhaps I should have used more flux – Might I have damaged the Coolrunner board?
14. Powered up XBOX. XBOX Startup led blinks rapidly, but Coolrunner didn’t glitch (no blinking green led), Coolrunner had power (red led) -> NOTE: I didn’t change any of the connection on the XBOX motherboard.
15. Checked soldering, it looked like the STBY_CLK line could use some improvement, ended up with repairing it based on instructions found on forum here (see attached photo). Repair was successful because I was still able to program via J-R runner
16. Checked soldering, improved where I could, also replaced COAX RST cable with regular blue cable (from SLIM cables) – read on forum here that this might improve timing as well.
17. Checked soldering for shorts with nearby circuits/pads -> seemed all ok
18. XBOX still did not boot
19. Reprogrammed Coolrunner (still works), tried different XSVF (both A and D) – XBOX still did not boot
20. Reprogrammed NAND with 14717 glitched rom -> XBOX did not boot.
21. Reprogrammed NAND with original dump -> XBOX boots up
22. Reprogrammed NAND with ECC -> XBOX did not boot up, no glitches from coolrunner
23. Checked soldering on Coolrunner, tried different stettings (3-2 closed, CAP open, etc.) -> no change


In short
- Coolrunner did glitch and with ECC was able to obtain CPU key, but after programming new NAND and asolderinging 1-2 closed and CAP closed on Coolrunner, no more activity
- Coolrunner board can still be programmed
- NAND can still be programmed
- Original NAND can be programmed and XBOX will boot up
- No Coolrunner glitches when programming ECC or Glitch ROMS (tested 14717 and 15574)


My hunch is that the Coolrunner board is broken. Since I checked the soldering multiple times – also once removed everything.


I also checked the voltages with a regular voltage meter and there seems to be activity on port C,D,E,F and B seems to acts as an oscillator (see attachment).


What might be the problem? Could it be the Coolrunner board? Are there any connection on there I can check?
If the green light does not blink, what might be the likely cause? I read something about the green wire on this forum – but that one seems pretty good connected as well.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Utmad]

Please post pics of the install, all points. As per the rules..

 

[Arie1]

Herewith the photo's of the solderings and the voltages on the Coolrunner.

 

[jayfig]

When you say xbox wont boot up is it glitching or just nothing at all?

 

[Urban Gamer]

Soldering Pics look alrightat the xbox end, especially as the xbox still boots stock. If the Green LED is not flashing it could be an issue with the coolrunner or the timing file flashed to it or maybe a dry joint on the pads soldered to the coolrunner - Check Point C as it looks like a disturbed or Dry Joint on the coolrunner - could just be the lighting though.

 

[Goldensavage]

Have you done a trace repair on R4B24. If you have Where is the pics of that repair.

If the coolrunner doesn't blink it is either not programmed, on PRG Mode or the STBY_CLK is not soldered correcty.

Judging by the way you have a red wire attached to the R4B24 trace, i would say it's a STBY_CLK Problem

 

[Oggy]

The lack of a pulse is more commonly cpurst and/or pll bypass IME

 

[Arie1]

When you say xbox wont boot up is it glitching or just nothing at all?

When I press the xbox startup button the led on the xbox front rapidly blinks (keeps blinking until I press the button again), but the green led on the coolrunner does not blink as it did before. Also connected the xbox to a TV, and the TV remains black.

 

[jayfig]

When I press the xbox startup button the led on the xbox front rapidly blinks (keeps blinking until I press the button again), but the green led on the coolrunner does not blink as it did before. Also connected the xbox to a TV, and the TV remains black.

Then I would have to agree with the previous two post on it being STBY_CLK, it will need attention. If your xbox did nothing at all the likely hood would of been r4b24 resistor blown but thats not the case.

 

[Arie1]

Have you done a trace repair on R4B24. If you have Where is the pics of that repair.

If the coolrunner doesn't blink it is either not programmed, on PRG Mode or the STBY_CLK is not soldered correcty.

Judging by the way you have a red wire attached to the R4B24 trace, i would say it's a STBY_CLK Problem

Then I would have to agree with the previous two post on it being STBY_CLK, it will need attention. If your xbox did nothing at all the likely hood would of been r4b24 resistor blown but thats not the case.

I did a trace repair, it just visible on the earlier attached photo. I can make a better photo if needed. However I don't think it is the STBY_CLK point on the motherboard or R4B24 trace connection. If I measure the resistance between STBY_CLK point on the motherboard, the 24B24 trace and point B on the Coolrunner all are 0,0 Ohm. Also NAND programming works like a charm (I think it is not possible if 24b24 has a bad connection). Also xbox boots perfectly with original NAND.

I am also a bit hesistant to solder that one again - but happy to try as a later option.

 

[jayfig]

I did a trace repair, it just visible on the earlier attached photo. I can make a better photo if needed. However I don't think it is the STBY_CLK point on the motherboard or R4B24 trace connection. If I measure the resistance between STBY_CLK point on the motherboard, the 24B24 trace and point B on the Coolrunner all are 0,0 Ohm. Also NAND programming works like a charm (I think it is not possible if 24b24 has a bad connection). Also xbox boots perfectly with original NAND.

I am also a bit hesistant to solder that one again - but happy to try as a later option.

You mean R4b24? And it should be about 33 ohms not zero. Zero means its blown no resistance.

 

[Arie1]

Soldering Pics look alrightat the xbox end, especially as the xbox still boots stock. If the Green LED is not flashing it could be an issue with the coolrunner or the timing file flashed to it or maybe a dry joint on the pads soldered to the coolrunner - Check Point C as it looks like a disturbed or Dry Joint on the coolrunner - could just be the lighting though.

Not sure what the best way is to test the coolrunner connections. But Point C has a good connection with the 47 Ohm resistor.

I have seen the led blink once or twice when pressing the on button. The led itself seems to be working on coolrunner.

The lack of a pulse is more commonly cpurst and/or pll bypass IME

CPU_RST to motherboard connection seems to be fine.
Could it be that the CPU_RST connection on the Coolrunner itself is damaged. Where does CPU_RST pad originate from?

CPU_RST with 1-2 and 3 on coolrunner is 0 Ohm, CPU_RST with CAP has no connection. Is that normal?

Also what is PLL bypass?

 

[jayfig]

PLL _BYPASS is just a point for RGH1 only

 

[Arie1]

You mean R4b24? And it should be about 33 ohms not zero. Zero means its blown no resistance.

Yes I think you are correct, it is R4B24 trace. The repair is as follows:


[A]---WIRE---+---WIRE---[C]
. . . . . . .|. . . . . . .
. . . . . . .|. . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . .

A = R4B24 scratched pad
B = CPU_RST on Coolrunner (PAD B)
C = RESISTOR/CPU_RST point on motherboard

The resistance is 0 Ohm, but the original resistor is still on the motherboard.

 

[jayfig]

Yes I think you are correct, it is R4B24 trace. The repair is as follows:


[A]---WIRE---+---WIRE---[C]
. . . . . . .|. . . . . . .
. . . . . . .|. . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . .

A = R4B24 scratched pad
B = CPU_RST on Coolrunner (PAD B)
C = RESISTOR/CPU_RST point on motherboard

The resistance is 0 Ohm, but the original resistor is still on the motherboard.

What? So you have 33 ohms or not?

 

[Oggy]

He said resistance between pad B and stby_clk is 0ohms, which is correct.

 

[Arie1]

Soldering Pics look alrightat the xbox end, especially as the xbox still boots stock. If the Green LED is not flashing it could be an issue with the coolrunner or the timing file flashed to it or maybe a dry joint on the pads soldered to the coolrunner - Check Point C as it looks like a disturbed or Dry Joint on the coolrunner - could just be the lighting though.

Thanks! The problem was with the Coolrunner programming. Not sure what caused it, but after programming with the A option again, it started to blink.

---------- Post added at 10:35 ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 ----------

Many thanks everybody!

As noted as possibility by Uber Gamer, the Coolrunner was not programmed correctly. Not sure what I did wrong, perhaps removed the cable from the Coolrunner, before removing the USB cable from the computer?

Anyway it is working now. I changed some settings and got it to boot with:
- Shielded cable (ground not used)
- 1-2 (no resistor)
- CAP open
At first it took some time (1 min?) - but now it starts almost instant? (at the 2nd glitch)

Again many thanks for all your input!

 

[Urban Gamer]

Glad it worked out well for you