Home made lite key extractor
- Thread starter Lockheed
- Start date
I was jealous of drivembig's setup, so I decided to make myself one. I just ordered my RS232 TTL yesterday, so right now my cable is incomplete.
The top left switch connects/disconnects the 5V+ running to the drive. The push-button connects pin 3 to ground which will eject the tray when held down, and return the tray when released. That allows me to eject the tray, and kill power as it's sliding back in. Then return power. All without any disconnecting at the back of the drive.
The Pin 3 switch just disconnects pin 3 as if it were yanked out of the back of the drive. I only added this because some folks have said that it's absolutely necessary to remove this pin to flash a lite-on. I don't know if that's a true statement. What's missing is the RS232 connector which you can see in drivembig's attachment. I'm hoping it comes soon so I can put this thing to use.
What was used:
- A standard XBOX DVD power cable ($5 shipped on eBay).
- A two pack of tiny SPST switches ($3 from Radio Shack).
- A big pack of heat-shrink tubing ($5.49 at Radio Shack).
- A SPST push-button switch from Radio Shack (bought it in a pack years ago).
- Not yet added, an RS232 adapter that drivembig told me about (thanks man!!)
-Not yet added, a probe cable which I stole off of a dead multi-meter. These can be bought at Radio Shack but they cost too much. Use the end of a cable, or a stable like drivembig did.
- For wire I hacked up an old USB cable. The red/black pair was suitable for power ... the green/white pair was not.
So, it's still a work in progress. What I have so far works well. I will post an update of the final product.
The top left switch connects/disconnects the 5V+ running to the drive. The push-button connects pin 3 to ground which will eject the tray when held down, and return the tray when released. That allows me to eject the tray, and kill power as it's sliding back in. Then return power. All without any disconnecting at the back of the drive.
The Pin 3 switch just disconnects pin 3 as if it were yanked out of the back of the drive. I only added this because some folks have said that it's absolutely necessary to remove this pin to flash a lite-on. I don't know if that's a true statement. What's missing is the RS232 connector which you can see in drivembig's attachment. I'm hoping it comes soon so I can put this thing to use.
What was used:
- A standard XBOX DVD power cable ($5 shipped on eBay).
- A two pack of tiny SPST switches ($3 from Radio Shack).
- A big pack of heat-shrink tubing ($5.49 at Radio Shack).
- A SPST push-button switch from Radio Shack (bought it in a pack years ago).
- Not yet added, an RS232 adapter that drivembig told me about (thanks man!!)
-Not yet added, a probe cable which I stole off of a dead multi-meter. These can be bought at Radio Shack but they cost too much. Use the end of a cable, or a stable like drivembig did.
- For wire I hacked up an old USB cable. The red/black pair was suitable for power ... the green/white pair was not.
So, it's still a work in progress. What I have so far works well. I will post an update of the final product.
looks good. I just used the xbox to power the drive and eject. Looks like you have a more creative mind than I do....lol..
Here is the "final product". I used it today to mod a Samsung and it worked VERY well. Its really nice to be able to reset the drive and lock the tray half-open without having to pull the power out of the back!
Also note that the RS232 adapter from alldav fit discretely into a D-shield I had laying around.
I look forward to doing another Lite-On in mod with this in the future.
Also note that the RS232 adapter from alldav fit discretely into a D-shield I had laying around.
I look forward to doing another Lite-On in mod with this in the future.
Any chance at getting a schematic of this RayHaque or drivembig? I'm pretty sure I could figure it out with some time, but thought if someone could post a schematic of a known working design, then it could save me and others alot of time and possibly our DVD drives.
I have an extra dvd cord, female serial port, probe lead, and can come up with the switches. Just a little unsure of the actual design.
Much thanks to all folks that help here.
I have an extra dvd cord, female serial port, probe lead, and can come up with the switches. Just a little unsure of the actual design.
Much thanks to all folks that help here.
Well, I am not very good at creating schematics, but here is a simple wiring diagram. Note that I am only showing the connections which should be cut to add switches, etc. All other wires/pins should continue along their way.
Any questions, just ask!
Any questions, just ask!
Perfect bro. Thank You very much. I will order/gather the parts and report back in a few days. Hopefully with a success message.
OK I'm back with some great and some odd news. First I finally got my lite-On to IX 1.5. It had nothing to do with my probe or means of connectivity(360 power, CK3, DIY, etc). It had to do with at what time in the process the sata cable was plugged into the Lite-On drive. I'm posting an article on my website to report my findings, when done if allowed I will link to it in another post. If not I will post some details later.
Now to the weird. I made the DIY CK that Ray posted a wiring diagram for and had weird results. I used the probe I previously built from an NPN transistor and some resistors because I had it available and had just ordered the TTL to RS232 adapter Ray and drivembig had linked to. So I only used the DIY CK for connectivity purposes. Now just to say, I have electrical technologies training and have been learning as much as I can on my own (as needed) about electronics. What I'm trying to say is I can read simple wiring diagrams and wire the resulting circuit without trouble. So I proceeded to make the circuit presented by Ray. I hooked it up and tried the drive power switch, as there is no led to indicate I tried to eject the tray both by the 360 and the DIY CK. Neither ejected the tray so I assumed it did it's job. Next I tried the eject on the CK.... nothing happened. So I tried the 360 eject button... the tray opened. So I hit the CK eject one more time..... still nothing. Hum move on. I tried the wire #3 slider switch.... The tray ejected!!!!!
So the ending results.... I can use the power switch as intended, the eject button does not function, and the #3 slider causes the drive to eject. Not a big deal as you really only need the #8 wire power switch if your using the 360 to power the drive anyway. You can just use the eject button on the 360 itself. Just wondering where I went wrong? From what I see and what I wired they are exactly the same.
Oh bye the way Ray, You definitely do not need to kill the #3 wire to dump/flash a Lite-On. As said above I only used the power switch on the CK, and used the 360 to eject. During the whole process dump and flash I left #3 wire attached.
Anyway Thank You very much for the help given.
It had nothing to do with my probe or means of connectivity(360 power, CK3, DIY, etc). It had to do with at what time in the process the sata cable was plugged into the Lite-On drive. I'm posting an article on my website to report my findings, when done if allowed I will link to it in another post. If not I will post some details later.Now to the weird. I made the DIY CK that Ray posted a wiring diagram for and had weird results. I used the probe I previously built from an NPN transistor and some resistors because I had it available and had just ordered the TTL to RS232 adapter Ray and drivembig had linked to. So I only used the DIY CK for connectivity purposes. Now just to say, I have electrical technologies training and have been learning as much as I can on my own (as needed) about electronics. What I'm trying to say is I can read simple wiring diagrams and wire the resulting circuit without trouble. So I proceeded to make the circuit presented by Ray. I hooked it up and tried the drive power switch, as there is no led to indicate I tried to eject the tray both by the 360 and the DIY CK. Neither ejected the tray so I assumed it did it's job. Next I tried the eject on the CK.... nothing happened. So I tried the 360 eject button... the tray opened. So I hit the CK eject one more time..... still nothing. Hum move on. I tried the wire #3 slider switch.... The tray ejected!!!!!
So the ending results.... I can use the power switch as intended, the eject button does not function, and the #3 slider causes the drive to eject. Not a big deal as you really only need the #8 wire power switch if your using the 360 to power the drive anyway. You can just use the eject button on the 360 itself. Just wondering where I went wrong? From what I see and what I wired they are exactly the same.
Oh bye the way Ray, You definitely do not need to kill the #3 wire to dump/flash a Lite-On. As said above I only used the power switch on the CK, and used the 360 to eject. During the whole process dump and flash I left #3 wire attached.
Anyway Thank You very much for the help given.
I'm Baaaack...... LOL
After some searching and learning more of the power connection for the 360 dvd drive, I found the answers to my questions. Thought I'd post them here for discussion and learning.
When wire #3 is placed in a floating state (disconnected, or switched off), it will eject the drive. When it is closed, or connected (on) it is already at ground. In the above circuit, with #3 slider is closed the push button is just basically taking ground to ground, the end result not ejecting the drive. When the #3 slider is opened (off) it is put in the floating state mentioned above and ejects the drive.
I'm working on a complete DIY connectivity kit with probe. This way I will no longer need to power from the 360. Just thought it would be fun at this point, and I have most of the parts on hand. With some simple adjustments of the above circuit a complete CK can be made from a spare cable. I will try to post a new diagram soon.
I also found that the original XBOX has the same power connection. So this could be a good source for extra cables. I will have to dust mine off and rip it apart to confirm this. I only softmodded mine, never had to take it apart. Oh well now it's "Meat for the beast" :twisted:
After some searching and learning more of the power connection for the 360 dvd drive, I found the answers to my questions. Thought I'd post them here for discussion and learning.
When wire #3 is placed in a floating state (disconnected, or switched off), it will eject the drive. When it is closed, or connected (on) it is already at ground. In the above circuit, with #3 slider is closed the push button is just basically taking ground to ground, the end result not ejecting the drive. When the #3 slider is opened (off) it is put in the floating state mentioned above and ejects the drive.
I'm working on a complete DIY connectivity kit with probe. This way I will no longer need to power from the 360. Just thought it would be fun at this point, and I have most of the parts on hand. With some simple adjustments of the above circuit a complete CK can be made from a spare cable. I will try to post a new diagram soon.
I also found that the original XBOX has the same power connection. So this could be a good source for extra cables. I will have to dust mine off and rip it apart to confirm this. I only softmodded mine, never had to take it apart. Oh well now it's "Meat for the beast" :twisted:
Looks good. I am in the process of rebuilding mine. RayHaque put to many buttons on his, so now I have to...lol. I am thinking of maybe USB power for the drive. This would eliminate the XBOX for the power source. Let me know when you get done and post some pics for us to see. Thanks.
Hey drivembig, how's it going? Good I hope. Glad to see you comment on this. USB huh? That sounds cool. 8) Do you know what the drive uses the 12v for? I ask only because obviously the USB will not provide that. If you would like a peek at the schematic I'm basing my next project on click HERE. Keep in mind he started his pin numbering with 0. This should never be done, but if you look at it you can figure it out rather easily.
I have sourced the voltage regulator he uses, and found it for just over $1 USD. I will be adding a switch DPST for main power (killing both +5v and +12v), a switch SPDT for eject(would like something w/ 1 momentary position), leds for power and eject, and of course a probe for the Lite-On drives all laid out on a perf board. :wink:
Sorry I don't have any pics or diagrams yet, my kids have been keeping me pretty busy lately. So I have yet to get the regulator and switches. I hope to order them this weekend and get things going early next week.
I have come up with a design without using the regulator, but it leaves the eject in the floating state I mentioned in my earlier post, and it is not really good practice to do it that way. Yes it will work, but you take a chance at harming the drive. As this has become a "just for fun" project now, I would rather build it correctly.
Hopefully I'll have some progress to report back on soon.
_____________For all those interested________________
XBOX360 Lite-On Key Retrieval and Firmware Flashing
PC Freezing? Sata ports not found? Can’t dump Lite-on Key? Look no further. This article will help solve your troubles.
After banging my head off the wall for countless hours which led to days of aggravation and failed attempts to retrieve my Lite-On drives key.bin, inquiry.bin, and identity.bin, I finally found the information I needed.
I found no matter what software I used (iprep, jungleflasher, extractor reader, etc) or what operating system I was on (windows, or dos), the guides and tutorials all used the same basic procedure. This is not their exact wording, but the procedure is the same throughout.
1. Power on PC and boot to DOS or Windows. (depending on which application your using)
2. Connect sata cable to Lite-On drive. (opposite end is already attached to PC)
3. Power on Lite-On drive.
4. Use Geremia’s DVDKey method to prepare Lite-On for key retrieval.
4.1. Eject Lite-On tray.
4.2. Power of Lite-On drive.
4.3. Push tray by hand half way closed.
4.4. Power on Lite-On drive with tray half closed.
5. Retrieve key, inquiry, and identity bin files through your preferred application. (This will depend on the guide you are following)
Every time I tried it failed when done in that order. In Windows my Pc would freeze after step #3 “power on Lite-On driveâ€, and in DOS it would fail to retrieve the key (why the sata had anything to do with the key in dos is beyond me. As we all know the key comes in on the com port). So I tested my probe (how to later), if was functioning fine. At this point I could not explain why it did not work in DOS. Then I decided to look at Windows and why it was freezing. I found some people saying to uninstall the drives for your sata controller (I use a VIA 6421) and let PORTIO32 take care of it. I thought this sounded weird, but figured at this point I had nothing to loose. When I did this none of the applications Windows or DOS based could see my sata ports. Exactly what I thought would happen.
After some more searching I found a small post on some forum. I don’t remember the forum or posters name, but he gets all credit here. It is so simple just, use the same procedure as before except skip step #2 and do not connect the sata to your Lite-On until you have it readied with the tray half closed and powered on again
.
Here is the exact procedure I found to work 100% of the time.
1. Hook all hardware up except the sata cable to your Lite-On drive.
2. Boot to DOS or Windows. (Depending on application being used)
3. Power on Lite-On DVD drive.
4. Eject Lite-On tray
5. Power off Lite-On drive.
6. Push tray halfway in by hand.
7. Power on Lite-On drive.
8. Now connect your sata cable from your PC to your Lite-On drive. If in windows and it still freezes, give it a minute. It will come back now.
9. Now you are ready to follow any guide/tutorial you like.
Just remember your drive is ready for dumping/flashing.
DO NOT, repeat Geremia’s DVDKey method (ejecting tray, power off, push in, power on) from your guide/tutorial. Just skip that part.
You will not need to touch your drive again until…
1. You probe the R707 VIA and
2. Power cycle the drive before erasing the original firmware.
Again remember, everything else is done inside your chosen application. DO NOT, eject or power on/off the Lite-On drive until the erasing procedure tells you to.
I have sourced the voltage regulator he uses, and found it for just over $1 USD. I will be adding a switch DPST for main power (killing both +5v and +12v), a switch SPDT for eject(would like something w/ 1 momentary position), leds for power and eject, and of course a probe for the Lite-On drives all laid out on a perf board. :wink:
Sorry I don't have any pics or diagrams yet, my kids have been keeping me pretty busy lately. So I have yet to get the regulator and switches. I hope to order them this weekend and get things going early next week.
I have come up with a design without using the regulator, but it leaves the eject in the floating state I mentioned in my earlier post, and it is not really good practice to do it that way. Yes it will work, but you take a chance at harming the drive. As this has become a "just for fun" project now, I would rather build it correctly.
Hopefully I'll have some progress to report back on soon.
_____________For all those interested________________
XBOX360 Lite-On Key Retrieval and Firmware Flashing
PC Freezing? Sata ports not found? Can’t dump Lite-on Key? Look no further. This article will help solve your troubles.
After banging my head off the wall for countless hours which led to days of aggravation and failed attempts to retrieve my Lite-On drives key.bin, inquiry.bin, and identity.bin, I finally found the information I needed.
I found no matter what software I used (iprep, jungleflasher, extractor reader, etc) or what operating system I was on (windows, or dos), the guides and tutorials all used the same basic procedure. This is not their exact wording, but the procedure is the same throughout.
1. Power on PC and boot to DOS or Windows. (depending on which application your using)
2. Connect sata cable to Lite-On drive. (opposite end is already attached to PC)
3. Power on Lite-On drive.
4. Use Geremia’s DVDKey method to prepare Lite-On for key retrieval.
4.1. Eject Lite-On tray.
4.2. Power of Lite-On drive.
4.3. Push tray by hand half way closed.
4.4. Power on Lite-On drive with tray half closed.
5. Retrieve key, inquiry, and identity bin files through your preferred application. (This will depend on the guide you are following)
Every time I tried it failed when done in that order. In Windows my Pc would freeze after step #3 “power on Lite-On driveâ€, and in DOS it would fail to retrieve the key (why the sata had anything to do with the key in dos is beyond me. As we all know the key comes in on the com port). So I tested my probe (how to later), if was functioning fine. At this point I could not explain why it did not work in DOS. Then I decided to look at Windows and why it was freezing. I found some people saying to uninstall the drives for your sata controller (I use a VIA 6421) and let PORTIO32 take care of it. I thought this sounded weird, but figured at this point I had nothing to loose. When I did this none of the applications Windows or DOS based could see my sata ports. Exactly what I thought would happen.
After some more searching I found a small post on some forum. I don’t remember the forum or posters name, but he gets all credit here. It is so simple just, use the same procedure as before except skip step #2 and do not connect the sata to your Lite-On until you have it readied with the tray half closed and powered on again
.
Here is the exact procedure I found to work 100% of the time.
1. Hook all hardware up except the sata cable to your Lite-On drive.
2. Boot to DOS or Windows. (Depending on application being used)
3. Power on Lite-On DVD drive.
4. Eject Lite-On tray
5. Power off Lite-On drive.
6. Push tray halfway in by hand.
7. Power on Lite-On drive.
8. Now connect your sata cable from your PC to your Lite-On drive. If in windows and it still freezes, give it a minute. It will come back now.
9. Now you are ready to follow any guide/tutorial you like.
Just remember your drive is ready for dumping/flashing.
DO NOT, repeat Geremia’s DVDKey method (ejecting tray, power off, push in, power on) from your guide/tutorial. Just skip that part.
You will not need to touch your drive again until…
1. You probe the R707 VIA and
2. Power cycle the drive before erasing the original firmware.
Again remember, everything else is done inside your chosen application. DO NOT, eject or power on/off the Lite-On drive until the erasing procedure tells you to.
sounds schweet, i hope you have success.
does this mean we no longer need to use a probe? or am i missing something.
does this mean we no longer need to use a probe? or am i missing something.
Can somebody tell me how Drivemebig's Homemade Extractor is made please?
I know this post is old but I want to get the Drive Key from my Lite-On drive without soldering to the PCB.
Thanks.
I know this post is old but I want to get the Drive Key from my Lite-On drive without soldering to the PCB.
Thanks.
OK, Blakley. First I bought a serial to ttl converter from here. Then I got two(2) internal dvd drive cables. The power cables, not the sata cables. One of the cables is to use, the other is to butcher and use parts from. If you look at the cable you will see that 2 spots on the cable are missing. You have to take two wires, connectors and all from the one that you are going to butcher and push the pins into the cable that you are building, filling all slots with a wire now. The other end of these two wires will go to the tx and the rx spots on the serial to ttl converter. Now cut two more pieces of wire, either from the butchered cable or any wire and splice them into the 3.3v and the ground wire in the cable that you are going to use. You can see from the pic below which wires are which. Now when you connect the wire to the tx on the serial to ttl converter you have to solder an extra wire there also and on the other end solder something to use as a probe. I used a staple from a normal desk stapler. Now it is finished. You will need a standard serial cable for this also. This goes from the serial to ttl converter to you pc's serial port.
Here are the Pin connections. Just plug in your cable and the follow the pins to the other side and you will see it.
Dont worry about the two solder points at the r707 and the r708 because you don't have to do that now. Just use the wire that you soldered the staple to and hold it in the hole(via) behind the r707 while extracting the key and this will do the same thing.[color=][/color]
Here is the finished product.
Here are the Pin connections. Just plug in your cable and the follow the pins to the other side and you will see it.
Dont worry about the two solder points at the r707 and the r708 because you don't have to do that now. Just use the wire that you soldered the staple to and hold it in the hole(via) behind the r707 while extracting the key and this will do the same thing.[color=][/color]
Here is the finished product.
Well sorry I haven't been back sooner, as usual father duties have put my projects to the side.
I did not want to spend 4x the amount in shipping as the suggested fixed 3.3v regulator costs so I decided to use an adjustable regulator instead. Once I figured out the resistance values needed I was able to achieve 3.31v from my regulator. I then assembled everything on a breadboard for testing.(I will redo on perfboard later) Notice I used a homemade RS232 circuit also. So all needed components should be able to be bought from a local electronics shop.(except the 360 DVD cable, look on ebay)
In this build I also used Drivembig's suggestion of using USB to power the unit. Don't know what effect this will have not suppling the drive with 12v, but I should be able to test this thing on an actual drive soon. Bench testing is almost done and I should have some time to set aside.
Anyway here it is so far.
I did not want to spend 4x the amount in shipping as the suggested fixed 3.3v regulator costs so I decided to use an adjustable regulator instead. Once I figured out the resistance values needed I was able to achieve 3.31v from my regulator. I then assembled everything on a breadboard for testing.(I will redo on perfboard later) Notice I used a homemade RS232 circuit also. So all needed components should be able to be bought from a local electronics shop.(except the 360 DVD cable, look on ebay)
In this build I also used Drivembig's suggestion of using USB to power the unit. Don't know what effect this will have not suppling the drive with 12v, but I should be able to test this thing on an actual drive soon. Bench testing is almost done and I should have some time to set aside.
Anyway here it is so far.
So what you saying is Drivemebig is that I have to "split" the 3.3v cable in a fashion? I just solder a wire to the bare wre inside which is still connected to drive and XBox?