How do I write my original NAND back(PHAT - Falcon)?

[axelll]

1st place 1st, I didn't follow the tutorial here because I ended up here AFTER I screw the things up. Yes, I'm a little impatient and writing freeboot.bin was stupid of me but I got here to ask for your help. Too bad I didn't check the site BEFORE I tried to glitch the console. I understand your frustration, I guess I'll be to if I were in your place but I only tried to get some help, things are screwed now, no way I can undo this.

Back to the console, I flashed the original dump and I got an RROD: 0110.

 

[axelll]

1 checked
2 checked
3. I'll go and buy one, the dog ate the last one. The only broken trace is R4B24. I'll check this with a multimeter and let you know. I must go buy one.

 

[DayvG]

Error 0110 is usually down to needing a reflow. I had that in my Falcon before even attempting the RGH. How did you remove the board from the cage? I'm hoping you didn't lift it by the heatsink? Maybe time to ask in the trader section for a reflow. And while it's there ask for them to finish your RGH install for you.


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[axelll]

, I know how it is, my son has 8 years, but he also "chewed" everything he caught at that age . No I have a dog to do that.

tested, all connections are OK, replaced the yellow wire with a more thinner one, rewrote the NAND, still RROD

---------- Post added at 13:10 ---------- Previous post was at 13:09 ----------

I didn't lifted the board from heat sink, I know I shouldn't do that

 

[DayvG]

Might be just your boards "time". There's some good guys on here, I'd go with a reflow mate.


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[Martin C]

, I know how it is, my son has 8 years, but he also "chewed" everything he caught at that age . No I have a dog to do that.

tested, all connections are OK, replaced the yellow wire with a more thinner one, rewrote the NAND, still RROD

---------- Post added at 13:10 ---------- Previous post was at 13:09 ----------

I didn't lifted the board from heat sink, I know I shouldn't do that

What's your secondary code and how long does it take to RRoD.

 

[axelll]

Done. No, it does not RODD but is not starting either, only blinking center green on the console and red on CR without green

 

[axelll]

Sorry Martin, I already hooked CR and flashed .ecc as noobnotforlong said. I'll try to get the second RROD after I'll flash the orig nand back

---------- Post added at 13:53 ---------- Previous post was at 13:53 ----------

OK, I'll do that, can I use thin wires? except GND and 3v3?

---------- Post added at 13:54 ---------- Previous post was at 13:53 ----------

I also have an Matrix Glitcher 2, should I try using it instead CR?

 

[Martin C]

Flash back your original NAND using -w16 (nandpro usb: -w16 nanddump.bin).

Remove ALL wiring, making sure no bridges are present anywhere you've soldered.

Turn on. If it RROD's, let me know the secondary error code and how long it takes.

Do NOTHING else but this for now.

 

[axelll]

OK, I'll do that and let you know

 

[axelll]

primary RROD is 3 lights flashing

/ \
\

and the secondary one is 0110

 

[Younge]

i think thats a RAM error or check for solder splash anywhere

 

[axelll]

OK, but nothing happened "physically" to the RAM, why should that be? Refluxing will solve this problem?
No solder splash, I've verified the board

---------- Post added at 15:12 ---------- Previous post was at 15:10 ----------

Should I try to reflux the RAM? I have a soldering station and the tools required

 

[noobnotforlong]

How long does it take to rrod and it could be RAM

A little copy paste

though it's most likely GPU related literally means the console does not know what is wrong. possibly a short or cold solder joint somewhere. So far there is 1 major theory for what causes most of these errors is that the Ram, CPU, or GPU are not soldered properly to the mother board due either to poor manufacturing or excessive heat up and cool down cycles that stress, weaken and eventually break the soldered connection. There are two theories to fixing this one deals with the "X" clamps that hold down the chips. The other involves re-Heating the chips. DO NOT attempt either of these if your console is still under warranty. If your console is still under warranty return it to the store where it was purchased or call MS to have it replaced. I have also heard of limited success by simply switching the AV cable from "HDTV" mode to "TV" mode.

 

[axelll]

SO, the only thing left to do is refluxing / reballing?

 

[noobnotforlong]

Martin c is better to anwser that but when you press power does it rrod stright away

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[axelll]

No, RROD cames after 4-5 seconds, and the FAN is struggling wits shorts ups and downs

---------- Post added at 15:26 ---------- Previous post was at 15:25 ----------

After the RROD the FAN stabilizes

 

[Martin C]

It does sound like a genuine RRoD. Try putting pressure on each of your RAM bricks and see whether it comes on.

 

[axelll]

RAM pressure - Same thing, nothing changed

 

[Martin C]

So it's possible it's the GPU causing it then.

an RROD kit migt solve it, but may only be a temporary fix. A reflow of the GPU is the best way forward.