I installed the lpc rebuild pcb with an xecuter 3 on my 1.6. at first I had a frag problem so I searched and it said to check the solder points. I cleaned it all up and so It stopped fragging. Now what happens is when I hit the power button the Xbox boots to the Xbox bios and the chip front panel shows a red light on the X and the Hd light appears to be working fine. If I hold the power button nothing happens. If i hold both power and eject I get nothing. I can not get my chip to turn on. Please help. P.S. My blue led on the chip itself turns on.
Installed Xecuter 3 on 1.6 and X led stays red when power is tapped or held
- Thread starter vyomesh003
- Start date
vyomesh003 said:
There should be two blue leds on the x3 that are lit. One is 3.3v and one is 5v. Did you use the alt. 5v solder point?
hmmm i find it weird that your front lights up red and holding the power doesn't do anything??? Did you switch hard drives? and i assume that 2 led's on the chip are lit up since the switch on the outside will lit up red right
Thanks guys. Both LEDs on the chip light up. The Xbox loads fine to its original bios and yeah the power button only does one thing. Any ideas anyone. Please. The light on the switch up fron is still red. Oh yeah its the original hard drive still. Nothing has changed on the Xbox.
Let me see if I got this right. When you tap the button or hold it, it boots to the original M$ Dashboard? If so, the problem is the D0 point.
Had a similar problem. I just forgot to solder one point on the pcb to the mb. It was the far right top corner point. Double check the pcb first and then check the header pin. After rechecking your soldering, start the box up by holding the eject+power button to get into the Flash Bios. It you can see the blue screen, all you have to worry about is getting bios 1959 flashed.
metalgear
VIP Member
I had the same thing too, I saw a post on here that said the V1.6 box is very picky with the pin header and the post said to go back and look at pin header points 13 and 14 Even though it looked good to me at the time I touched up the job anyways and POOF I'm up and running.
this may sound dumb to some of you, but how exactly do all of you "touch up" your header points? do you remove the solder with a desoldering wick and start over, or do you just re-melt the solder and move it a bit?
thx
thx
First I prepare the soldering iron. I make sure the soldering iron is on for 10 mins so it can be hot. Next I clean the tip of the soldering iron with a wet sponge. I sharpen the tip of the iron with a sharpening stone. Next I touch a bit of solder to the tip of the iron. This allows heat to conduct (travel) better. Now your iron is hot, sharp and ready to touch up the points.
When I touch up the header pin, I take the iron and touch each pin for about 5 secs. I don't touch any of the solder thats on the header pin. I just want to heat the metal pins such that the solder on the pin melts and flows properly, connecting the pins to the lpc holes. I look at each pins closely to see if the solder actually surrounds the entire pin. If not, add more solder.
For the solder pads, I take the iron and touch each point where the pad on the pcb is suppose to connect to. Touch it for about 5 secs. Here you are going to get solder on your soldering iron. You have to clean the iron tip and prepare the iron tip again. The point here is also to melt the solder and it will automatically flow to the areas where it is hot.
Thats about it.
I practiced a lot and found a style that worked for me. Most important is to have a well prepared soldering iron tip and some good solder (30 gauge).
When I touch up the header pin, I take the iron and touch each pin for about 5 secs. I don't touch any of the solder thats on the header pin. I just want to heat the metal pins such that the solder on the pin melts and flows properly, connecting the pins to the lpc holes. I look at each pins closely to see if the solder actually surrounds the entire pin. If not, add more solder.
For the solder pads, I take the iron and touch each point where the pad on the pcb is suppose to connect to. Touch it for about 5 secs. Here you are going to get solder on your soldering iron. You have to clean the iron tip and prepare the iron tip again. The point here is also to melt the solder and it will automatically flow to the areas where it is hot.
Thats about it.
I practiced a lot and found a style that worked for me. Most important is to have a well prepared soldering iron tip and some good solder (30 gauge).
Glad to hear...
I am glad to hear that I am not the only one with this issue... I modded my v1.0 about a week ago and it was a peice of cake. So a buddy orders an X3 and asks me to mod his xbox and it is a 1.6 (not b) and it is a freaking nightmare. Here is what has happened with me:
At first the chip would/wouldn't initialize... Went and touched up some solder points
Now
It will still not come up to the flash screen when I use the power button. It will come on with the front LED red, and it will boot to the MS dashboard. If I hold down the eject button to start it up, it will come up to the flash screen and the led will be blue on the front switch panel. It will not let me flash the bios though (flash protection turned off, and switches set to 1,2 = on and rest off). I also read a post about someone having to unhook the power button override switch and that helped.. I tried this with no luck...
Do i need to clean up 13 and 14 as well? d0? I am at the point of almost throwing in the towel.. v1.6 sucks.....
Thanks,
Jason
I am glad to hear that I am not the only one with this issue... I modded my v1.0 about a week ago and it was a peice of cake. So a buddy orders an X3 and asks me to mod his xbox and it is a 1.6 (not b) and it is a freaking nightmare. Here is what has happened with me:
At first the chip would/wouldn't initialize... Went and touched up some solder points
Now
It will still not come up to the flash screen when I use the power button. It will come on with the front LED red, and it will boot to the MS dashboard. If I hold down the eject button to start it up, it will come up to the flash screen and the led will be blue on the front switch panel. It will not let me flash the bios though (flash protection turned off, and switches set to 1,2 = on and rest off). I also read a post about someone having to unhook the power button override switch and that helped.. I tried this with no luck...
Do i need to clean up 13 and 14 as well? d0? I am at the point of almost throwing in the towel.. v1.6 sucks.....
Thanks,
Jason
Flashing
I tried used the HTTP method,which is how I flashed the chip on my version 1.0. I got 2 different error codes on different attempts. The first attempt I had 1/2 on and the rest off, and it told me unexpected bios size. On the second attempt I left all off in an attempt to get it to go into default mode, and it acted like it was going to flash, but then it started filling the screen with P's instead of the status bar. Look something like this with random lowercase letters:
PPPPPPPPPPPpppPpPPPPppPPPPPPPPPPPPPppPPPP
This went on for several rows until I finally stopped it. I attempted taking my chip and dropping it in to see if the chip was bad and mine gave me no led on the front panel, and now when I put his chip back on there is no led either... I am thinking bad solder point somewhere since I keep getting intermittent red initialize, and sometimes nothing (any idea where? 13 and 14, d0??)... The only thing that throws this off is the blue led when the eject is held down. I don't care for this 1.6 at all... I am half tempted to use an old v10 or 1.1 board I have around at start over without the LPC, or go to wires for the LPC.
Thanks,
Jason
I tried used the HTTP method,which is how I flashed the chip on my version 1.0. I got 2 different error codes on different attempts. The first attempt I had 1/2 on and the rest off, and it told me unexpected bios size. On the second attempt I left all off in an attempt to get it to go into default mode, and it acted like it was going to flash, but then it started filling the screen with P's instead of the status bar. Look something like this with random lowercase letters:
PPPPPPPPPPPpppPpPPPPppPPPPPPPPPPPPPppPPPP
This went on for several rows until I finally stopped it. I attempted taking my chip and dropping it in to see if the chip was bad and mine gave me no led on the front panel, and now when I put his chip back on there is no led either... I am thinking bad solder point somewhere since I keep getting intermittent red initialize, and sometimes nothing (any idea where? 13 and 14, d0??)... The only thing that throws this off is the blue led when the eject is held down. I don't care for this 1.6 at all... I am half tempted to use an old v10 or 1.1 board I have around at start over without the LPC, or go to wires for the LPC.
Thanks,
Jason
Since you have a v1.6, you need to flash it with X3_1959_v16plus.bin bios.
If that didn't work, try flashing with X3_1959.bin bios.
This might seem strange.
I had a similar problem. As a last resort, I tried X3_1959.bin bios on a v1.6 and it worked. The flashed worked but the xbox was acting up. Xbox didn't boot up properly sometimes. I was able to get into X3CL and from there I flashed the proper bios, X3_1959_v16plus.bin
If that didn't work, try flashing with X3_1959.bin bios.
This might seem strange.
I had a similar problem. As a last resort, I tried X3_1959.bin bios on a v1.6 and it worked. The flashed worked but the xbox was acting up. Xbox didn't boot up properly sometimes. I was able to get into X3CL and from there I flashed the proper bios, X3_1959_v16plus.bin
here goes...
I will try this... I went and bought some desoldering braid, so I can resolder with the wires instead of the LPC adapter. We'll see what happens at bios flash once the chip in soldered in properly....
I will try this... I went and bought some desoldering braid, so I can resolder with the wires instead of the LPC adapter. We'll see what happens at bios flash once the chip in soldered in properly....
Similar but Different Problem - X3 on 1.6 - Only Original Dash?
I'm only getting one blue light on the chip, not on the 3.3v.
Also, no light at all on the external switch.
Tapping power just takes me to the original Dashboard...
Is this indicative of a certain point with a bad solder joint? I read someone say to check the D0 point, but I know I have a solid joint there using the alternate D0 on the LPC Rebuild.
Thanks for any insight.
I'm only getting one blue light on the chip, not on the 3.3v.
Also, no light at all on the external switch.
Tapping power just takes me to the original Dashboard...
Is this indicative of a certain point with a bad solder joint? I read someone say to check the D0 point, but I know I have a solid joint there using the alternate D0 on the LPC Rebuild.
Thanks for any insight.
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I believe it's pin 15. I re-soldered that one when my LED didnt come up... add a bit more solder.
I had the same problem also, but in the end it turned out there were two solder points on the lpc rebuild board that I missed completely. It blew me away given I had checked and resoldered the damn board several times.