JTAG questions

[korn_16_f_t_l]

ok well i did the wire install for my NAND-X (was way easy and wow the pads and traces on the 360 board are like 100 times more forgiving than the old xbox 1 boards) now im to the part about dumping my NAND (no i havent installed the JTAG QSB yet) and i seen things about not using the HDMI make sure your 360 was set to run off component/av cables ect ect does this matter ive only seen it mentions a couple time in all honesty.

also whats the deal with coolshrimp's tool i seen one of the admins said it wasnt recommended any more at the moment due to bugs so im guessing its not reliable or something i kinda liked it when i used it to dump my NAND completely noob friendly

EDIT: made 3 dumps via coolshrimp tool and none of them open in degraded am i doing something wrong or is the tool?
360 flash dump tool reads it but says under all the key vault tab bad key / KV is it cause it hasn't been decrypted or something

 

[manwithoutname]

JTAG connection bit is not needed for reading or writing the NAND like you stated. It is needed to run xell/xellious/freeboot though which would be the next step after you verified your NAND dumps.

When xell/xellious boots up the video signal only available via the normal A/V port and not HDMI but you only need this to get your CPU key. Once finally Freeboot (recommended) or XBR is installed and running you can use your HDMI port as normal.

Yes, JTAG tool is currently buggy but that shouldn't stop you from trying to use it. If you end up with errors then use nand pro unless you prefer to use that in the first place.

360 Flash tools will show bad key vault files because they are encrypted and you haven't obtained the CPU key yet to decrypt them. As long you are able to view/open the nand dumps in 360 flash tool then they should be ok but if you still want to open them in degrader then use a hex editor to edit the NAND (make sure you are working on a copy & not the original) and change the bit that says 2004-2007 Microsoft Cor operation to 2004-2005 instead but I really wouldn't bother unless you wanted to use degrader to make an older kernel.

Finally, make sure you at least got 3 dumps (I personally do 6 all the time) and compare them in nandcompare tool to make sure they are valid and identical.

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

When xell/xellious boots up the video signal only available via the normal A/V port and not HDMI but you only need this to get your CPU key. Once finally Freeboot (recommended) or XBR is installed and running you can use your HDMI port as normal.

ok up there you say freeboot is recomended is all this talk about xell /freeboot / ect like the xbox 1 days with evox, XBMC, and avalaunch or do thay work more like bootstraps for computers?

also ive read that current versions of freeboot have xell intergraded in them or something to that effect why is freeboot recomended?

at the moment im trying to figure out exactly how i want to install the JTAG part of the NAND-X (see here for details: http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55120 ) as i dont really care for the QSB as the traces that conect to the xbox motherboard lift really easy not to mention the fact i bought a used NAND-X (here on team xecuter forums) and some of the traces are partally lifted (probably from removal)

EDIT: so i said screw it (i did a complete wire install) all i didnt use the JTAG QSB aside from soldering wires to the needed points using the alt points (picture in link above) that shows me the traces and where they go and actually it went surprisingly well i didnt think id be able to solder stuff that small but i took a deep breath took my time went slow and steady and got the job done

so i guess on to the wrighting the NAND (seeing as how i already got 3 NAND dumps via coolshrimp and compared them in NAND compare and no differences were found) so on to the next stage i suppose any one got a link to reliable tutorials for the freeboot and what not i got to wright to the NAND maybe one that explains the differences cuz as far as this all go's im completely lost

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

ok well i flashed xell via 2 diffrent ways (tho i used the same file from coolshrimps JTAG tool) and both times im getting an E79 error ive already verrifyed the CB # and everything all connections are good and solid what can cause this problem what did i do wrong?

any one got the directory tree for xbins in wich to locate the latest xell.bin so i can try it with there .bin file rather than coolshrimps?

EDIT: well i got Xell to load...... kinda lol its all staticy not blue like all the pictures i got it to load with the switch centered and the jumper on the 330 pin and middle pin any idea what the issue might be or should i ignoore it get my CPU key and move on?

also i get a series of errors such as:
*try booting from CD rom
! ERROR after CDB [1D], err=FF
! error after reading response
atapi_packet result: -6
!ERROR after CDB [00], err=ff
!error after reading response
!read sector failed!
!ERROR after CDB [00], err=ff
! error after reading response
!REQUEST SENSE failed
!sense: ffffffff
!failed to read PVD
*HTTP listen
*XeLL network config: 10.0.120.209 / 255.255.255.0

so is all this nothing is one of my resistors wrong or something any one got any clues? lol
EDIT2: also seen 3 red rings....... upper left lower left and lower right quadrants odly interesting really i mean it was a game stop referb wtf lol it even turns on by itself....... it seemed as tho one of the resistors were broke when i did the install (being i did get it used) and the previous owner was saying something about constently getting an E79.... i wonder.....does it matter where the resistor is it a MUST to be connected directly to the mother board? i did turn my JTAG QSB into a chip via the alternate points diagram and extened the red wire and mounted the JTAG QSB elsewhere on the mother board

 

[M AzeeM K]

Why don't you try this? : http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55189

I think it will suitable for you...

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

Why don't you try this? : http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55189

I think it will suitable for you...

only issue with that is ive got 2 XCM after market cooling fans that tie in to the 360 via the DVD rom Power how much power does the DVD rom need at min and how much is actually provided by the 360 itself i dont want to cut the DVD rom short on power that would be bad ( o and cant forget about my CK3 blaster yet to be installed)

 

[manwithoutname]

Power, what power? You are connecting the red wire to the dvd open tray signal wires. You won't be draining any power from your dvd drive.

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

Power, what power? You are connecting the red wire to the dvd open tray signal wires. You won't be draining any power from your dvd drive.

ahh ic ic thats kool got another interesting find kinda maybe its not relevant maybe it is ive tested (beeping continuity in the section of the multi meter with the upside down horse shoe looking thing set at 200 what ever that is) both red and yellow resistor wires from the plug on the JTAG QSB to the solder point on the other end (ring of light and the 1db point) and no reading what so ever just says 0L. (both yellow and red with switch and jumper at all possable positions) on the meter i thought to myself ok resistor maybe there not supposed to read at all (pot a multi meter pro or anything like that) so i go to a tackle box that was given to me a while ago by a friend and pull out a few diffrent resistor they all read but do not beep (98.X or something around in there) than i think ok maybe a bad connection and peel back the red wire shrink tube (where i spliced it to make it longer) and check the end of the spliced wire to the DB1 solder point beeps and all is good there also checked all 4 of my JTAG QSB solder points from the point installed to the pin header location on the mother board all test = good connection

so my question is because im not getting a reading at all on either resistors is it possable thay could be bad (remember i bought a used NAND-X) i still notice a lil snap feeling when fumbeling around with the red wire resistor at the shrink tube area

also another relatively quick question what was the OLD way to JTAG at home (zephyr motherboard) before the kits were made, like i said i got a tackle box of resistors i might acutally have what i need here to try it that way my NAND-X JTAG install obviously has something fishy going on as i ocasonally get the Xell screen other times i get RROD or E79 as well as my 360 turning itself on by itself when left pluged in reguardless of switch settings (not counting off it dosent turn on by itself in off) i got the NAND part right obviously because ive done 6 dumps 3 with coolshrimp and 3 with nandpro 20d that all check identical in the nand compare tool

ya i know im really noob to all this but im trying to get it and figure out where exactly i went wrong (probably buying a used kit lol) thanks for every ones attention

EDIT: did some more fooling around with jumper settings and such (jumpers and switch) i get the RROD's when the jumper is on the middle pin and the 440 pin (switch centered)as well as E79 also that seems to be the only jumper setting that makes it turn on by itself (ocasonally i get xell) with the jumper set at 330 and middle pin i only get E79 as well as xell i almost get the E79 and xell the same amount of times its about a 50/50 either way when i do get xell it looks like the pic i uploaded:

 

[manwithoutname]

ahh ic ic thats kool got another interesting find kinda maybe its not relevant maybe it is ive tested (beeping continuity in the section of the multi meter with the upside down horse shoe looking thing set at 200 what ever that is) both red and yellow resistor wires from the plug on the JTAG QSB to the solder point on the other end (ring of light and the 1db point) and no reading what so ever just says 0L. (both yellow and red with switch and jumper at all possable positions) on the meter i thought to myself ok resistor maybe there not supposed to read at all (pot a multi meter pro or anything like that) so i go to a tackle box that was given to me a while ago by a friend and pull out a few diffrent resistor they all read but do not beep (98.X or something around in there) than i think ok maybe a bad connection and peel back the red wire shrink tube (where i spliced it to make it longer) and check the end of the spliced wire to the DB1 solder point beeps and all is good there also checked all 4 of my JTAG QSB solder points from the point installed to the pin header location on the mother board all test = good connection

so my question is because im not getting a reading at all on either resistors is it possable thay could be bad (remember i bought a used NAND-X) i still notice a lil snap feeling when fumbeling around with the red wire resistor at the shrink tube area

also another relatively quick question what was the OLD way to JTAG at home (zephyr motherboard) before the kits were made, like i said i got a tackle box of resistors i might acutally have what i need here to try it that way my NAND-X JTAG install obviously has something fishy going on as i ocasonally get the Xell screen other times i get RROD or E79 as well as my 360 turning itself on by itself when left pluged in reguardless of switch settings (not counting off it dosent turn on by itself in off) i got the NAND part right obviously because ive done 6 dumps 3 with coolshrimp and 3 with nandpro 20d that all check identical in the nand compare tool

ya i know im really noob to all this but im trying to get it and figure out where exactly i went wrong (probably buying a used kit lol) thanks for every ones attention

Using a second hand NANd-X shouldn't make a difference as long as you were able to read & write the NAND/Xell then it is working fine. Just check your NAND dumps for any sign of errors or problems (use various tools to do this).

Reverse the multimeter pole ends, you should be able to get a reading as the diodes/resistors will allow current to flow in 1 direction only. If still no reading then there is a problem there.

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

Reverse the multimeter pole ends, you should be able to get a reading as the diodes/resistors will allow current to flow in 1 direction only. If still no reading then there is a problem there.

ya i must have left out that part of my issue i think i did that but ill double check it again and edit this post with my results any certin setting you would like my multi meter set at or is my continuity test just fine?
also note i added a pic of what my xell looks like when it does load up there in my previous post

EDIT: ya i reversed the poles switch centered and jumper on 330 setting no reading for either resistor with either pole on either end....... what can i try to replace these resistors with to see if thats the for sure issue (tho like you mentioned above it probably is)?

also thanks for sticking with me on this manwithoutaname i appreciate it im thanking every one of youre replys XD

 

[manwithoutname]

Xell screen looks just fine and for the record you might want to alter that picture so it doesn't show the whole fuses values else anyone can use your CPU key if you know what I mean.

I'd suggest you grap your CPU key again and recompile another image for Freeboot then install it. See where that gets you before you end up ripping everything off. If still no success, I'd suggest you try the alternative smc points and hard wiring the jtag connection. You'll save your self a lot of back ache.

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

Xell screen looks just fine and for the record you might want to alter that picture so it doesn't show the whole fuses values else anyone can use your CPU key if you know what I mean.

I'd suggest you grap your CPU key again and recompile another image for Freeboot then install it. See where that gets you before you end up ripping everything off. If still no success, I'd suggest you try the alternative smc points and hard wiring the jtag connection. You'll save your self a lot of back ache.

any one can use my CPU key really? what harm can that cause im never gonna go on XBL any ways what harm could it cause some one else using my CPU keys (i thought that was all keyed to the system/cpu like xbox 1 eeprom)

ya i considered installing freeboot and seeing what that did for me also but the fact i dont get xell every time i boot makes me nervous unless its a norm to be a hit and miss thing

what do you mean hard wiring the JTAG connection? like i mentioned before the old school way without the JTAG QSB (like thay used to do with the LTP and the resistors?) and this still doesn't tell me why im not getting any reading on my resistors with the multi meter tho i suppose ill worry about that if freeboot doesn't load

ill try doing freeboot via cool shrimp first and if that dosent work ill do it long hand would like to keep it simple but would also like to cover any possibility of error like you said before ripping everything apart

EDIT: will install freeboot once i get the laptop back in my possession the wife wants to use it for a little bit and ya im sick of trouble shooting at the moment it gets kinda frustrating but hay i suppose as long as i got my original NAND dump all is well in paradise

 

[manwithoutname]

any one can use my CPU key really? what harm can that cause im never gonna go on XBL any ways what harm could it cause some one else using my CPU keys (i thought that was all keyed to the system/cpu like xbox 1 eeprom)

ya i considered installing freeboot and seeing what that did for me also but the fact i dont get xell every time i boot makes me nervous unless its a norm to be a hit and miss thing

what do you mean hard wiring the JTAG connection? like i mentioned before the old school way without the JTAG QSB (like thay used to do with the LTP and the resistors?) and this still doesn't tell me why im not getting any reading on my resistors with the multi meter tho i suppose ill worry about that if freeboot doesn't load

ill try doing freeboot via cool shrimp first and if that dosent work ill do it long hand would like to keep it simple but would also like to cover any possibility of error like you said before ripping everything apart

Well I suppose if you're not using XBL then it won't matter but banned consoles can go back onto XBL by obtaining another's console CPU key and not sure but they also might need the KV files.

Yes I meant by hard wired as in old skool way but still using diodes/resistors. soldering the wires directly onto the console is much easier and will minimize soldering problems but that's just me.

Like I said, try Freeboot first and then take it from there.

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

Well I suppose if you're not using XBL then it won't matter but banned consoles can go back onto XBL by obtaining another's console CPU key and not sure but they also might need the KV files.

meh either way no XBL for me theres no point really XBL for a JTAG console = a ban in like 4hrs i dunno y the hell ppl even try the XBL bit ok gonna be wrighting freeboot right now and ill see where that takes me

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

the XBL bit ok gonna be wrighting freeboot right now and ill see where that takes me

results from coolshrimp are in ive been to freeboot now and set my settings but there is still a series of unusual things going on here for example when im at the dash and setting my system settings i have a flashing green center light where typically it is solid (dunno if thats a freeboot thing or not), i get random RROD on start up (found that out after checking for boot consistency) and the jumper settings for loading free boot are now diffrent than the ones i got xell to load on ( jumper set 440 and center pin switch = center) thats the setting that would constantly give me RROD and/or E79 and every once in a blue f*** xell

i haven't tried installing freeboot longhand but for some reason i have this feeling that it wouldn't matter as i know this install works ive seen it

EDIT:
ok im almost convinced it has something to do with this resistor on the red wire yaknow how ive been mentioning that i could feel a snap well when i got my E79 i moved it till i felt the snap again and i got a successful boot again ill keep playing with it and keep you posted on further findings

 

[M AzeeM K]

Hey , personally, I don't think there is any harm if anyone sees your CPU Key since it is paired with the actual CPU, and only that CPU Key will work with your CPU and vice versa. Therefore, no one else can use your CPU Key even if they have since their actual CPU won't work with it.

As for unbanning the console, you need the original KeyVault of an unbanned console to do that. When you have such a KeyVault, you can then inject your CPU Key in it, plus do some other things necessary, and then you can use it with your console, which in turn unbans your console.

 

[manwithoutname]

results from coolshrimp are in ive been to freeboot now and set my settings but there is still a series of unusual things going on here for example when im at the dash and setting my system settings i have a flashing green center light where typically it is solid (dunno if thats a freeboot thing or not), i get random RROD on start up (found that out after checking for boot consistency) and the jumper settings for loading free boot are now diffrent than the ones i got xell to load on ( jumper set 440 and center pin switch = center) thats the setting that would constantly give me RROD and/or E79 and every once in a blue f*** xell

i haven't tried installing freeboot longhand but for some reason i have this feeling that it wouldn't matter as i know this install works ive seen it

So are you saying that Freeboot is running now or not?

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

So are you saying that Freeboot is running now or not?

i have seen it load yes as far as consistently no i can get it to load a couple time than b ack to E79 right now im poking and pushing things like the resistor plug maybe theres a faulty connection some where from being pluged in and unplugged to many times or something

if i solder the resistor wires right to the mother board rather than using the QSB will the QSB still regulate the resistor level? cause im getting it to load on the 470 jumper setting (not sure what that is any idea )

looked at one of the old school tutorials for a JTAG install says i need a switching diode (1n4148 to be exact) and apparently i dont have one and i dont even know what one is lol but either way we know i get a successful boot on the 470 settin im done with this today atm im so close and yet so far and frustrated debating on just moving the red wire to the DVD rom plug and see if that one by itself makes any difference at all seeing as how i do have freeboot loading and what not

 

[M AzeeM K]

i have seen it load yes as far as consistently no i can get it to load a couple time than b ack to E79 right now im poking and pushing things like the resistor plug maybe theres a faulty connection some where from being pluged in and unplugged to many times or something

if i solder the resistor wires right to the mother board rather than using the QSB will the QSB still regulate the resistor level? cause im getting it to load on the 470 jumper setting

The image below should answer your question:

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

The image below should answer your question:

you might have just solved my problem that picture says something about not being able to control the resistors if i wire solder both terminals on the switch and thats exactly what i did i did a complete wire install of all the JTAG QSB terminals to the corresponding locations on the mother board

but than again if that were the case how come im getting diffrent results with each setting..........