JTAG questions

[M AzeeM K]

you might have just solved my problem that picture says something about not being able to control the resistors if i wire solder both terminals on the switch and thats exactly what i did i did a complete wire install of all the JTAG QSB terminals to the corresponding locations on the mother board

but than again if that were the case how come im getting diffrent results with each setting..........

What you have done is a whole another story. You haven't even soldered the QSB directly onto the motherboard. What I told you through the above picture is what would have happened if you solder wires directly to the points alongwith the QSB still connected to the points on the MB.

What you have done is to solder the wires onto the QSB and then onto the MB. In that case, since the current is still flowing through the QSB, therefore you are able to change the resistor settings, which in turn have effect onto the booting of your console.

Although, I must say, what you have done is kind of innovative, but probably, this is what is making trouble during the bootup of your console. But it might not be completely because of it since the original JTAG connections are known to cause boot troubles i.e. E79 etc.

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

Although, I must say, what you have done is kind of innovative, but probably, this is what is making trouble during the bootup of your console. But it might not be completely because of it since the original JTAG connections are known to cause boot troubles i.e. E79 etc.

well the whole reason i did it that way was because when i was TRYING to solder the QSB's for the NAND part of the install all i did was lift traces i hated those QSB's on the other hand the 360 motherboard was way more forgiving (especially compared to the xbox 1 traces and pads) but anyways back to other reasons for that install the whole NAND-X was bought used and some of the traces on the JTAG QSB were partially lifted and i didn't want to use the QSB's specially after the NAND experience so i came up wit that idea

 

[manwithoutname]

Get your self 2 switching diodes (1N4148) cost me 24 pence each so should be less than 20 cents in the US and get some 8 core or less alarm wire (I find their strong enough as well as flexible at the same time) and do it old skool style. I don't think that QSB will take anymore soldering/desoldering let alone I wouldn't trust it on any console in that condition.

 

[M AzeeM K]

well the whole reason i did it that way was because when i was TRYING to solder the QSB's for the NAND part of the install all i did was lift traces i hated those QSB's on the other hand the 360 motherboard was way more forgiving (especially compared to the xbox 1 traces and pads) but anyways back to other reasons for that install the whole NAND-X was bought used and some of the traces on the JTAG QSB were partially lifted and i didn't want to use the QSB's specially after the NAND experience so i came up wit that idea

It isn't particularly a bad idea...It's just that if you are having problems with your JTAG, then you will always have to look at the changes you have made yourself to the process, because it might as well be causing the problems you are having since you have deviated yourself from the way you were told to do the JTAG.

Let me tell you, when was Jtagging my first 360, i.e. a Jasper, I went into a lot of trouble caused by DB1F1 and its alternate points, then the 360 not turning on, then freeboot not booting. So, I put this project on halt. Then I did some research for a whole day on changing the points to where the JTAG wires are soldered. After all that, I changed the points, and then my 360 turned on, but did not boot to freeboot. Then, after another whole day trying to run freeboot, I got the 360 to run, and its been running fine since... Then I thought about making a tutorial, so that people may not have to go through all that I have been, so I made a tutorial, and it has been working fine for many people.

So, my point is, although we are here to help you and we have been helping you by answering your questions, especially manwithoutname, in the end, only you, by yourself will be truly able to help to yourself. Therefore, try to make out what you regarding your problem you can by yourself and try to fix it. Other than that, we are always here to help you...

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

It isn't particularly a bad idea...It's just that if you are having problems with your JTAG, then you will always have to look at the changes you have made yourself to the process, because it might as well be causing the problems you are having since you have deviated yourself from the way you were told to do the JTAG.

Let me tell you, when was Jtagging my first 360, i.e. a Jasper, I went into a lot of trouble caused by DB1F1 and its alternate points, then the 360 not turning on, then freeboot not booting. So, I put this project on halt. Then I did some research for a whole day on changing the points to where the JTAG wires are soldered. After all that, I changed the points, and then my 360 turned on, but did not boot to freeboot. Then, after another whole day trying to run freeboot, I got the 360 to run, and its been running fine since... Then I thought about making a tutorial, so that people may not have to go through all that I have been, so I made a tutorial, and it has been working fine for many people.

So, my point is, although we are here to help you and we have been helping you by answering your questions, especially manwithoutname, in the end, only you, by yourself will be truly able to help to yourself. Therefore, try to make out what you regarding your problem you can by yourself and try to fix it. Other than that, we are always here to help you...

ya i was kinda thinkin to buy some other cheaper varient of a team xecuter JTAG kits just to get the JTAG QSB once i got i had other ideas after looking at certin guides and what not and figured hell worst case scenario as long as i dont destroy the 360 mobo im all good and figured id work with i had like ive said in a few of my posts recently the 360 mobo is like way easyer than the xbox 1 (in my opinion) and why not try

also ive used a lot of the ideas for soldering on tutes and stuff around here and if anything have gained more faith in my actual skills for soldering (always had soldering issues and what not) im actually really proud of myself and as a whole was my first do it myself soldering and all job i can say that ive done in my life so all in all im still kinda geeked about doing that lol

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

Get your self 2 switching diodes (1N4148) cost me 24 pence each so should be less than 20 cents in the US and get some 8 core or less alarm wire (I find their strong enough as well as flexible at the same time) and do it old skool style.

thats what i was thinking wish i knew exactly how too i was looking here: http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-152/__how_to_do_the_jtag_hack_dump_nand_xell_tutorial_-823187/

from the looks of that pic i jump the blue wire on the same LPC port and run the red and yellow wire to the typical spots hell i could in all honesty try that with what i have left of the NAND-X kid cant i with the yellow and red wires ans the wire left over from the xenon part i didnt use

 

[manwithoutname]

thats what i was thinking wish i knew exactly how too i was looking here: http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-152/__how_to_do_the_jtag_hack_dump_nand_xell_tutorial_-823187/

from the looks of that pic i jump the blue wire on the same LPC port and run the red and yellow wire to the typical spots hell i could in all honesty try that with what i have left of the NAND-X kid cant i with the yellow and red wires ans the wire left over from the xenon part i didnt use

Close to that, as the tutorial you mentioned is for writing and reading the nand via LPT port and the JTAG connection is for xenon motherboard.

Just follow Azeem's tutorial, it couldn't be any clearer. If you need any more help during the process just PM.

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

Get your self 2 switching diodes (1N4148) cost me 24 pence each so should be less than 20 cents in the US and get some 8 core or less alarm wire (I find their strong enough as well as flexible at the same time) and do it old skool style.

in process as we speak if this = fail than ill use the oldskool style plus alt. points in azeems tutorial ill figure this out eventually somethings gotta work lol

getting closer still getting the ocasonal E79 (freeboot already installed) so im going to try the alternate points in azeems guide and see if thatll make me way more stable

do i have to re do the whole process like flash my origional NAND back or can i just keep things the way they are and just move to the alternate points?
EDIT: i think i got it all figured out i think i just start with the update my SMC part of the tutorial and edit the freeboot.bin that the JTAG tool has made for me if im correct

 

[M AzeeM K]

in process as we speak if this = fail than ill use the oldskool style plus alt. points in azeems tutorial ill figure this out eventually somethings gotta work lol

getting closer still getting the ocasonal E79 (freeboot already installed) so im going to try the alternate points in azeems guide and see if thatll make me way more stable

do i have to re do the whole process like flash my origional NAND back or can i just keep things the way they are and just move to the alternate points?
EDIT: i think i got it all figured out i think i just start with the update my SMC part of the tutorial and edit the freeboot.bin that the JTAG tool has made for me if im correct

I have been getting reports, plus I have checked this myself that if you directly edit the SMC of an already created freeboot image, then your console will not boot to NXE; it will just display a black screen, and will not give E79 or any other error.

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

well after taking a long break from this frustrating JTAG experience i am going to once again attempt to perform it with success

i beleive i will start by undoing EVERYTHING soldering and all from there i will track down the pin header wires for my NAND-X kit and a second set of pin headers i will skip the QSB boards and such and use the old school resistor method i still have the original NAND dumps and all of that so everything is ok in that manner

this thing was way more than frustrating the 1st time around hopefully i can get it all figured out and resolve the problem i have also noticed that the kool shrimp too was also updated and has a really nice look to it as well as more options and functions add'd to the GUI hopefully this tool will reduce areas for passable human error

only other problem i have that i can think of that there is no real solution to (unless some one has a recommendation) is that i have managed to life one of the alternate solder points on the bottom of the motherboard im unsure where that trace go's perhaps i can follow it to some other place i can solder to.

ill post all results and progress here as i start to travel this has been overly frustrating path again.

thanks again for every ones help and support in all the previous posts in this thread

any one have any parts pin headers and/or the pin header wires from the NAND-X kit left over they would either give away or sell cheaply?

 

[Fisticuffs]

Just goto acidmods.com they sell the pin headers and QSB's seperate and have fast shipping

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

here is a few good questions i have generated while reading about

what is all this talk about new xell and xellious?

why does the coolshrimp tool have issues with making a 12625 dash and what the heck is that das for any how im kind of out of the loop last tim i tryed this there was only a 9199 dash some one care to get me up to speed?

i thought all xell was used for was to get the CPU key and that was all it was needed for what is the purpose of the update tool recently released i read about on xbox-scene?

EDIT:
any one ever use a 100ohm 0.25w resistor in place of the jumper wire in the standard SMC JTAG diagram see here: http://www.free60.org/File:Reversejatg.jpg

alsoi have read in a few other forums about a 330/470 resistor option to replace the standard diodes cant seem to find a diagram for it for a zepher how ever any one have a like that describes this method?

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

found the trasistor method here : http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=719652

just 1 question i dont want to use either of the alternate points would just rather use the ROL and DB1F1 points so do i have to use the AUD_CLAMP alt point? (its already been said i can use the DB1F1 point)

 

[korn_16_f_t_l]

CASE CLOSED the box is finally tag'd i recomend in my experiances any problems with the JTAG or it booting corectly trying the transistor method (actually i think if i ever do another one i will start with the transistor method) thanks to every one that helped and gave there advice on all my situations