lifted pad r3b15 on slim looking a fix

[fersy]

hi i feel like a complete idiot i soldered my coolrunner in with no probs at all and then when i was setting up to flash the xbox i accidentally caught the orange cable hard and it pulled the pad and a couple off mm of trace up. im looking for a fix and alt point to solder the orange b wire to.

looking about i have found this

I had the same problem on my slim. I had slightly burned/lifted the pad on C3B10. I had to solder a cable between alt pont FT3N2 and R3B15 left and also connect the glitch chip to R3B15 left.
You can check if you have this problem with a multimeter, FT3N2 and R3B15 left should be connected with 0 ohm if everything is OK.

but thats not very clear tbh. can anybody clarify it for me please.

ps before anybody tells me to get somebody else to solder it etc, im very experienced and my soldering is spot on and not the issue i literally pulled the pad up by force when i caught the wire. cheers in advance


i just found this will this work

Run a wire from the left hand side of the 34ohm resistor (as per diagram above) and connect it to FT3N2 on the other side of the board (almost directly opposite where you lifted the pad).

also if i do that where then do i solder the orange b wire from the coolrunner?

 

[fersy]

its ok i sorted it myself anyway. i just soldered a wire from further back up the trace at the wee circle till the resistor and the orange wire to the same spot on the resistor.

 

[Mickey3177]

I've seen a lot of people with this problem, you need to take extra care after soldering the points, as soon as you are done with the solder point, take some hot glue and put it on the wire back 1 or 2 inches from the solder point ( put a couple on if you want), DO NOT PUT HOT GLUE ON THE SOLDER POINT, if you have to remove it for some reason you will more than likely rip the trace from the MB.

 

[fersy]

I've seen a lot of people with this problem, you need to take extra care after soldering the points, as soon as you are done with the solder point, take some hot glue and put it on the wire back 1 or 2 inches from the solder point ( put a couple on if you want), DO NOT PUT HOT GLUE ON THE SOLDER POINT, if you have to remove it for some reason you will more than likely rip the trace from the MB.

hot glues something i never use but after this i think im gonna buy a glue gun

 

[Martin C]

DO NOT PUT HOT GLUE ON THE SOLDER POINT.

^ this.

Use electrical tape to hold wires down. You're not throwing the stuff around the room so nothing's going to happen once they're held down with tape.

 

[diaboliq20]

I always use electrical tape - it's much easier to take off than hot glue if you need to change anything in the future - holds the wires in place nicely

 

[Martin C]

I had to re-wire a CPLD installation by another user from another forum (won't mention any names to avoid embarassment). Suffice to say, it was a car-crash. Hot glue everywhere and the CPLD was held down with BLU-TACK on the coils under the fan shroud. Worse still, wires going through screw holes is a massive no-no. I had to surgically remove the old hot glue making sure I didn't lift any wires or traces. Not fun.

If you must hot-glue, do it a good inch away from the soldered point.

 

[diaboliq20]

BWAHAHAHA - that sounds like a pro install you had to repair there Martin....nearly choked on my coffee lol

 

[Martin C]

You laugh now - you should have seen my face when I opened it

 

[fersy]

see thats why i never used hot glue before because ive had repairs before from people who messed up mods and theres been hot glue all over the place and is a pain in the ass to remove. i always use tape myself but as i was only finished soldering all the wires in this case i hadnt taped anything down yet. maybe i outta tape them as i do them in the future

now if i could just get the timing sorted im getting sick of soldering and desoldering this blue wire