Well I ruined a couple boards before I got comfortable with soldering and desoldering and this is one of them. There are no pads for either trigger. Is this damage catastrophic?
Lifted pads on wireless controller; fixable?
- Thread starter cumbsie
- Start date
Antalpromille
VIP Member
It can defenitly be fixed, but if you need to ask how then youre not the person skilled enought to fix it. Sorry!
Well yes, how to fix it was going to be my next question.. I would like to become that person who is skilled enough to fix it.
WildCard007
VIP Member
If you feel up to it, here is a thread on trace repair. You lifted the pad but if you make a solid connection with solder, the part, and the trace you can save it. I had a similar issue with a few PS2 controllers. If you are going to attempt this you really need to practice on some dead boards if you can find them. I would reccomend going to Xconsoles.com and get a fiberglass pen (to gently scrape away the stuff covering the trace. if you haven't done this before and use a knife you might damage the trace more.), a magnifying glass (that can steady itself so you don't constantly need to hold it) if you don't already have one, and practice on the smallest traces you can find.
Antalpromille
VIP Member
Then you need to find out where those pads where going in the first place, fixate your trigger sensors and make new traces to the pins. Its not harder than that
A tip from my side is if you have trouble finding out where the traces are going, find a working controller of the same kind and trace it down on that one.
Polocho
Senior Member
It´s easy to fix, but first clean that board, second get a good flux. I usually use a vitorinox navaja for peel, after that all you need is use flux and solder and clean all the area again after the work, not all traces need copper, solder or Circuitwriter Conductive Pen will work for you.
Well I mounted some analog modules to the controller but I realized, after some testing, that one didn't work (it had slow turn; dead zone issues). Now I can't get it off. The four large pins are being very stubborn, the others are loose. I didn't want to apply anymore heat to the pads until I get some advice. Could it be the mix of lead-free and leaded solder that is making these joints so temperamental?
Assuming that I get this module replaced I also need some help understanding how re-route the triggers before I go ahead and do what I think I`m supposed to do..
From what I understand these are the traces for the left trigger. So can I just scrape and tin the via on the second picture, solder a wire there and then run the wire to the pin and then solder the wire to the pin? And for the two grounds to the top and the bottom pins do I wire those to TP2 and TP22? Can I connect two wires to the same ground? Because I'm going to need another two grounds for the right trigger.
I really need some help here moving forward. Thanks.
Assuming that I get this module replaced I also need some help understanding how re-route the triggers before I go ahead and do what I think I`m supposed to do..
From what I understand these are the traces for the left trigger. So can I just scrape and tin the via on the second picture, solder a wire there and then run the wire to the pin and then solder the wire to the pin? And for the two grounds to the top and the bottom pins do I wire those to TP2 and TP22? Can I connect two wires to the same ground? Because I'm going to need another two grounds for the right trigger.
I really need some help here moving forward. Thanks.
OK I got the stick off with flux and some solder wick and I replaced it with a working one and now it won't turn on at all. So I took them both off again. Does anyone notice any thing obviously wrong with the board that would be causing it to not get power? Let me know if you need a closer look at any section of the board and I'll bring the camera in for a tighter shot.
