ANSWERED Lite-on wont respond after flash and outro, PLZ HELP

MRANewb

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Aug 22, 2010
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I flashed 4 drives yesterday, a hitachi and 3 lite-ons. The hitachi was cake. I used the MRA "v-cut" method (first time using MRA) with a Maximus 360 Xtractor Pro V2.3 and a CK3 probe II on the 3 Lite-ons (748,838,934).

The trace cuts were simple, powered the drives, Intro'd em and got them into vendor mode. Read each OFW and DVD Key with ease. I then spoofed source to the target iXtreme LT 1.1. Now, I'm not sure if this might be part of the problem since they're lite-ons, but after I read the FW I selected "erase", NOT "Lite-On Erase", then I selected "write". I didnt think back on it because when I selected each it went through wihout a problem, saying it erased, wrote, and verified 100%. I then Outro'd the drives, re-soldered the 2 traces and stuck each into their respective xbox's to find that the 748 is the only one that functions.

I plugged the 934 back into my PC to find that it isnt detected by JF. Whether I used the CK3 Probe II or not it continuously gave me a status of 0x7f. I tried all the online remedies saying to use L-o-eras, Lite-On-Erase, Dosflash, etc, all gave me "no drive detected" or 0x7f. Then it started to give a puff of smoke everytime I touched it with the probe and I threw it at my f'n wall and called it a day, later went to the store to buy a new xbox for the friend I was doing this for.

Now I'm sitting here with MY 838 and I've found something rather peculiar. In JF it says no drive detected, but when I Intro it (with no cut traces, traces are soldered) it gives a status of 0x80 and still says no drive detected. When I touch the CK3 PRobe II from the red pad to the soldered joint where the green pad is, suddenly JF reads it as a Lite-On drive and verifies it's key. I cut the traces, selected Lite-On Erase, flashed it again with the CFW, repaired the traces, and its doing the same exact thing, wont open or spin or anyhting, says the same thing in JF that it did before. Another odd find is that when I start the drive with the probe in the position i mentioned before (red on red pad, green on the soldered joint) the drive actually works (opens and spins) I'm absolutely dumbstruck, I dont know what to do, Please help.
 

BGAMods

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Jan 20, 2010
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its obviously not repaired properly. post some high res pics of your repaired pcb and we can take it from there. if after the repair jf doesnt detect a drive then its not repaired properly. as for the erase instead of liteon erase thats no problem cause you dont even have to use liteon erase when doing the mra. once in vendor mode and the drive has been dumped and LT selected as target you just need to write and write automatically erases before writing anyway.
 

MRANewb

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Aug 22, 2010
7
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its obviously not repaired properly. post some high res pics of your repaired pcb and we can take it from there. if after the repair jf doesnt detect a drive then its not repaired properly. as for the erase instead of liteon erase thats no problem cause you dont even have to use liteon erase when doing the mra. once in vendor mode and the drive has been dumped and LT selected as target you just need to write and write automatically erases before writing anyway.
First I had a small ball on each cut. Since you said thats probably the issue, I exposed a bit more trace in each direction and did the soldering method with the small bit of wire over each cut with solder to it, still acting the same way. Here are 4 diff pics: (hope they went through, it says 500kb max per pic, I've never heard of an HD pic being under 500kb :/ )

Edit: Needless to say, I don't call myself a soldering expert, this is my first experience >.>
 
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Xmods

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Dec 9, 2002
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remove solder apply flux apply a bit of solder to the iron tin the trace and try again looks sorted to me on the top trace
 

modmonster

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Nov 7, 2009
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MRANewb

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Aug 22, 2010
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What do you mean by sorted? And I had it looking like the pic that modmonster posted before I did it again to make it look like the one in the pic, it didnt work either way :( Would it be detectable if I left a jumper where the probe points touched, because when I use any random piece of wire to jump that and turn the drive on it works fine, which is wierd :/ And if youre sure I need to take the solder off and do it again, Im not sure if it will survive, I have minimal soldering skill, it was hard enough to get the solder on there, I have no clue how to get that much off without lighting it on fire T_T

The solder is on there pretty damn tight, are you positive that it isnt connecting? I'm not challenging your knowledge, lol, you probavly know the topic 100x over me, but it seems like it has a tighter bond to the trace than the trace has to the board. Its solder over a small copper wire that I laid over the trace.
 
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BGAMods

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Jan 20, 2010
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desoldering braid mate, use that between the iron and the board and itll suck up the solder in to braid. real easy to do. make sure the solders removed then flux it and solder the cut again. dont probe the drive if youve soldered the cuts, pointless. if its working with the probe in place then that tells you the cuts are still present.
 

MRANewb

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Aug 22, 2010
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Alright. Ill give it a shot. If I were to jump those connections tho, would it work on backups, and would it be detectable by the big MS? Cuz if its yes on both, I might just jump it and give it to the friend if it still refuses to work after I give it another shot, since he has no intention to ever use LIVE (no clue why).
 

MRANewb

Noob Account
Aug 22, 2010
7
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desoldering braid mate, use that between the iron and the board and itll suck up the solder in to braid. real easy to do. make sure the solders removed then flux it and solder the cut again. dont probe the drive if youve soldered the cuts, pointless. if its working with the probe in place then that tells you the cuts are still present.
Is there some secret to this that I'm missing, I feel like such an idiot,lol. I touch the braid to the solder, then I put the iron on the braid, and it winds up either doing nothing, putting a light crisp around the solder (nothing severely damaging, just the green layer browning a bit), or the sodler melts around it and it winds up being attatched to the board >.<
 

MRANewb

Noob Account
Aug 22, 2010
7
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Alright, Im fed up with this drive, sill wont work, I fluxed it, soldered to it, still does the same thing. The kid doesnt care about LIVE, Im about to just solder a jumper and call it a night. I made too many mistakes on this one to really pin point it, on the next one I'll be more percise, that way if it messes up it will be much easier for you guys to diagnose. I tried 5 diff methods of soldering it in the past hour, it hasnt changed anything.