Manufacturer for code FF not found on new OOB Slim Demon

[Llarrinye]

No I get the same error when trying to write the Nand as well.

It worked once and now fails again.

Just a thought, is all the software Windows only or is there any Linux/OSX software?

 

[Krafter]

Only Windows.

Just for sh*ts and giggles, try the extension again and check and double check that the ribbon is properly seated.

 

[Llarrinye]

Only Windows.

Just for sh*ts and giggles, try the extension again and check and double check that the ribbon is properly seated.

Oh well was worth a try heh...

I've tried the extension again and double checked the ribbon is properly seated, tried on my laptop and Parallels.

I've also put an SSD with a fresh Windows image (I use it for testing and wipe and re-install when finished) into my laptop and done a fresh install of the Demon drivers and J-runner with no joy, still getting the Manufacturer for code FF not found error. I tried that with both the Micro USB cable that worked briefly in Parallels and with the breakout board connected via the ribbon cable.

I'm kind of at a loss for options now to be honest I can't think of any other troubleshooting steps.

 

[Krafter]

You got it to read once so that makes me wonder if something isn't soldered properly on the PCB. Lay the Demon on a hard and flat surface. Press down on the components one at a time while trying to read and see what happens.

 

[Llarrinye]

Pressing down on the Nand chip: Same error

Pressing down on the chip next to the Nand (don't know what it is): Same error

Pressing down on the chip with TX printed on it:



Looks like you were right, I'll have a look tomorrow when I can get the loupe out and actually have some decent light to see if I can see where the problem is and if I can fix it.

 

[jerky333]

Sounds like sending it to Utmad is your best bet for a sanity check.


Disregard this.

 

[Krafter]

Good. Now we're getting somewhere.

 

[Llarrinye]

Forgot to say that everything in my last post is repeatable;

If I don't press down on the TX chip I can't read/write the Nand, if I do press down on the chip then I can read/write but with bad blocks.

So it's looking like a faulty board, if I can repair it I will but if not then I'll send it to someone who thinks they can repair it and they can have it as it's cheaper for me to buy a replacement than it is to send it back to ck3.

 

[jerky333]

Krafter, would you recommend fluxing that chip and hitting it with a heat gun, to try to reflow solder joints?

 

[Krafter]

Krafter, would you recommend fluxing that chip and hitting it with a heat gun, to try to reflow solder joints?

No. I would use flux and apply some fresh solder. It would be really easy to kill a chip that size. How good are you with a soldering iron? This would be a really easy task for someone with some experience.

 

[Llarrinye]

I'm fairly rusty I have experience but hadn't brandished a soldering iron in anger for a good few years until today. I got out my brothers broken Xenon and thought I'd play with it to brush up my skills and ended up repairing it lol.

I could probably do it as long as I've still got all the right tools. I think the smallest tip I have at the moment is a 0.5mm pointed.

 

[Krafter]

Here's what you do.

Coat the pins of the chip with flux. Melt a very small amount of solder on the tip of your iron. Start below the pins and quickly move the iron until you make contact with the pins and pull away again. This will help force solder under and on top of the pins reflowing them. Use to much solder and you will bridge pins. If that happens, flux the area and quickly swipe off the excess solder with your iron.

 

[Llarrinye]

Thanks for that I'll look at doing that tomorrow (I keep saying tomorrow but its actually today as it's 02:55)

Thanks for all the help guys it really is appreciated. It's time for sleep now but I'll update this post tomorrow with results and possibly more pictures.

Again thanks all.

Edit: How do you thank posts with Tapatalk?

 

[Llarrinye]

Here's what you do.

Coat the pins of the chip with flux. Melt a very small amount of solder on the tip of your iron. Start below the pins and quickly move the iron until you make contact with the pins and pull away again. This will help force solder under and on top of the pins reflowing them. Use to much solder and you will bridge pins. If that happens, flux the area and quickly swipe off the excess solder with your iron.

That worked a treat thank you;

I can now read and write to the Nand from all of the machines and with all of the cables I tried yesterday. It turned out to be the two chips to the lower left of the chip with TX stamped on it.





Reflowed them as per your suggestion and all is now good.

Again I'd like to thank everybody for their help and I'm glad it wasn't just me doing something stupid

 

[Krafter]

Sweat! Glad to hear it.

 

[BrockThunderjam]

Here's what you do.

Coat the pins of the chip with flux. Melt a very small amount of solder on the tip of your iron. Start below the pins and quickly move the iron until you make contact with the pins and pull away again. This will help force solder under and on top of the pins reflowing them. Use to much solder and you will bridge pins. If that happens, flux the area and quickly swipe off the excess solder with your iron.

Great tips Krafter. Glad you guys got it sorted.

 

[Llarrinye]

Great tips Krafter. Glad you guys got it sorted.

They were indeed, I would have balked at doing that with such small pins but the information Krafter supplied was exactly what I needed to get the job done with little pain (I did bridge two pins on one of the IC's though again with Krafters info it was easy to fix).

I only wish you could give more than just thanks heh, doesn't seem like enough.

 

[Llarrinye]

Answered