Manufacturer for code FF not found

[Martin C]

His soldering isn't best, TBH. There's way too much solder on some of those QSBs. If there are bad points still, neither NAND will boot.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bnc6aqaiw6eg81g/VFh8bd6oiw

This is my DemoN install.

If you have points with no continuity, remove all solder from the point and inspect the via.

 

[xzanox]

His soldering isn't best, TBH. There's way too much solder on some of those QSBs. If there are bad points still, neither NAND will boot.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bnc6aqaiw6eg81g/VFh8bd6oiw

This is my DemoN install.

If you have points with no continuity, remove all solder from the point and inspect the via.

I removed all solder and will start over again. I thought if there wasn't enough solder (within limits of course) you could have bad solder joints, that for I add a "tiny" extra to make it nice round. Probably I better do little less, thanks for advice. I'll let ou guys know later, I first have my 3 yr old daughter that I have to take care of now my wife is off to work. I'll keep it updated.

Btw Martin or Brock, or someone else reading, from what it sounds, the board isn't ruined (yet) right? Otherwise it would not power on the demon and cr3 pro I guess??

Edit: admitted the demon looks nice Martin,

 

[xzanox]

Ok so here is the next info: Taking away the demon was not a succes for me. I ripped 3 pads so as you can see. I probably f***ed the demon as well, since the ripped pads also took the tiny hole on the demon qsb. Well that is my loss, i will accept that, maybe if there is a way to do wires instead, i would like to lnow and try, if not then that is ok. What i would like to know now is, can i fix these pads or are they not fixable and can i toss this board away? I guess writing my stock image to my nand won't work with a nand x now since those pads are missing from the nand bottomside. Any suggestions are very welcome. I am a bit downed by this as you can imagine.

 

[BrockThunderjam]

Ok so here is the next info: Taking away the demon was not a succes for me. I ripped 3 padsView attachment 19581 so as you can see. I probably f***ed the demon as well, since the ripped pads also took the tiny hole on the demon qsb. Well that is my loss, i will accept that, maybe if there is a way to do wires instead, i would like to lnow and try, if not then that is ok. What i would like to know now is, can i fix these pads or are they not fixable and can i toss this board away? I guess writing my stock image to my nand won't work with a nand x now since those pads are missing from the nand bottomside. Any suggestions are very welcome. I am a bit downed by this as you can imagine.

You don't use those pads with a nand-x but I'm not sure how it will affect communication with the onboard nand with those pads damaged. Have you tried?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[jsinger47]

Those pads do NOT affect reading/writing via SPI.

Those points are all very fixable.

The ones on the left can just have the demon pads soldered to the resistor.

The one on the right may need a wire to topside. There are demon rebuild alt points in the stickies.

 

[xzanox]

You don't use those pads with a nand-x but I'm not sure how it will affect communication with the onboard nand with those pads damaged. Have you tried?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

Not tried yet, i thought it would be wiser to wait for answer here before more stupidity...

 

[xzanox]

Those pads do NOT affect reading/writing via SPI.

Those points are all very fixable.

The ones on the left can just have the demon pads soldered to the resistor.

The one on the right may need a wire to topside. There are demon rebuild alt points in the stickies.

I will go have a look right away. Thanks. I'll report back. I do really hate it, i took so long and took it slow, removing the solder with desolder wick and lots of flux...still f it up, what a fail...

 

[jsinger47]

I will go have a look right away. Thanks. I'll report back. I do really hate it, i took so long and took it slow, removing the solder with desolder wick and lots of flux...still f it up, what a fail...

If i were you, i'd focus on getting it booting stock now. You don't need to do any Demon point rebuilding to do that. Unless you've damaged something farther.

 

[xzanox]

If i were you, i'd focus on getting it booting stock now. You don't need to do any Demon point rebuilding to do that. Unless you've damaged something farther.

Yes well i guess i did, because i just tried to flash the nand back using the nand x (installed wires) and it gives me cannot continue (soldering wrong?) 0x000000 etc. I thought i had the stock nand written to the xbox and demon before i removed the demon, so i tried booing it with the red wire 5v desoldered to see if it starts/boots. Same beep only, no starting of the console let alone booting. Power brick is orange. When i have the red wire soldered the cr3 pro lights up red like it supposed to. I don't know what to expect, because it is now exact the same problem issue as before i removed the demon.

Well let me say there are no more damaged points when removing the demon, only those 3 pads.

The beeping sound and not starting (powering on) is now the same as with the demon.

 

[jsinger47]

Ok, it sounds like something is damaged.

You have a power issue.

When it comes to demon installs, a common issue i see is that people fry the capacitor that is used for GND on the demon.

If you fry that to the point where it shorts permanently, you are going to have issues.

Break out your multimeter (set it to like 20K or so) and make sure that its resistance climbs the longer you hold the probes on either end.

The climbing of resistance shows that the cap is getting "charged," eventually it would go to infinity (or at least very high).

If the resistance is 0 and stays there (or stays very low), you have found your issue. If you have shorted the cap, just remove it. It should work without it.

Let me know your findings.

 

[xzanox]

Ok, it sounds like something is damaged.

You have a power issue.

When it comes to demon installs, a common issue i see is that people fry the capacitor that is used for GND on the demon.

If you fry that to the point where it shorts permanently, you are going to have issues.

Break out your multimeter (set it to like 20K or so) and make sure that its resistance climbs the longer you hold the probes on either end.

The climbing of resistance shows that the cap is getting "charged," eventually it would go to infinity (or at least very high).

If the resistance is 0 and stays there (or stays very low), you have found your issue. If you have shorted the cap, just remove it. It should work without it.

Let me know your findings.

Damn where do you get all that info?! Ok I will get right back to it once I got my daughter to sleep finally. I'll check it as soon as I can, you'll hear from me. Cheers already.

 

[sebastian79hl]

Hey dude. Not very practicable now but I just wanted to say that this yours thread is one of the best I've seen for a long time on here!

Great start with filling out the template, lots of good pics superb attitude. . . So even Martin is willing to help without a side kick

Now after ripping the pads you accept that as well like a real man. Great guy we need more like you around here.keep on and you'll get there!

Greets Seb

Gesendet von meinem GT-N7100 mit Tapatalk 4

 

[SoulReaper223]

power supply need to plugged in when doing the above or u will have a 0 or low ohms since it would have decharged

 

[jsinger47]

Damn where do you get all that info?! Ok I will get right back to it once I got my daughter to sleep finally. I'll check it as soon as I can, you'll hear from me. Cheers already.

Where do i get all this info?

Personal experience (fixing other people's mistakes) and knowledge of electronics.

- - - Updated - - -

power supply need to plugged in when doing the above or u will have a 0 or low ohms since it would have decharged

Not true. Multimeter will charge a cap. That's what we want to see. Hence my description of the resistance climbing.

 

[SoulReaper223]

its basic electronics. capacitors stores energy so when the circuit has power it charges when u remove power it discharges.

 

[SoulReaper223]

ddnt know a multimeter would charge it. never learn that in class good to know

 

[xzanox]

Joe, it stays on 5.15 set on 20k. Stays low, so I guess that is the issue you described right? The capacitor is fried? How can that happen, I even wear a wrist band for discharge and I'm using an anti static mat etc, I'm very carefull and still it happens? Or was it during soldering or so?

So what you suggest? Remove the capacitor completely?

 

[jsinger47]

its basic electronics. capacitors stores energy so when the circuit has power it charges when u remove power it discharges.

Yes, but a multimeter runs current through the probes to test continuity and resistance. That will charge a cap.

Watching the resistance climb is a good way to get an idea of a capacitor's health.

 

[xzanox]

Hey dude. Not very practicable now but I just wanted to say that this yours thread is one of the best I've seen for a long time on here!

Great start with filling out the template, lots of good pics superb attitude. . . So even Martin is willing to help without a side kick

Now after ripping the pads you accept that as well like a real man. Great guy we need more like you around here.keep on and you'll get there!

Greets Seb

Gesendet von meinem GT-N7100 mit Tapatalk 4

Thanks Sebastiaan, greetings from another Sebasiaan.

 

[SoulReaper223]

jsinger said to just remove it. i would solder to the copper of the 360 from now on to prevent shorting the cap