Manufacturer for code FF not found

[jsinger47]

Joe, it stays on 5.15 set on 20k. Stays low, so I guess that is the issue you described right? The capacitor is fried? How can that happen, I even wear a wrist band for discharge and I'm using an anti static mat etc, I'm very carefull and still it happens? Or was it during soldering or so?

So what you suggest? Remove the capacitor completely?

If you reverse the probes on the cap after "charging" it, you should actually get negative resistance, then it would build back up to positive as you "charge" it the opposite direction.

Does your resistance rise and fall as you switch the probes?

 

[xzanox]

jsinger said to just remove it. i would solder to the copper of the 360 from now on to prevent shorting the cap

Ah ok, so if I would be brave (dumb) enough to try to install the demon again, I would also be able to ground the black wire to the copper of the mobo?

 

[xzanox]

If you reverse the probes on the cap after "charging" it, you should actually get negative resistance, then it would build back up to positive as you "charge" it the opposite direction.

Does your resistance rise and fall as you switch the probes?

Yes it stays on 5.15 when I touch it with red on left and black on the right side. When I switch them to the other side, it goes negative, but then rises to 19-20 (climbing/jumping with 1-3) and there comes a 1 on my screen and nothing happens anymore

Soes this still means your theorie is correct? Remove cap or leave it?

 

[jsinger47]

Yes it stays on 5.15 when I touch it with red on left and black on the right side. When I switch them to the other side, it goes negative, but then rises to 19-20 (climbing/jumping with 1-3) and there comes a 1 on my screen and nothing happens anymore

Soes this still means your theorie is correct? Remove cap or leave it?

Unfortunately, that cap seems healthy to me. So it is not likely the issue.

Test your voltages around the motherboard with this diagram.

It would probably be worth posting some hi-res pictures of all the points you had ever soldered to. Maybe something will jump out to us that doesn't stand out to you.


EDIT: Please also post results from MartinC's NANDX troubleshooting guide.

 

[xzanox]

Here are already the pictures. I will now go test the board and check Martin C his nand x troubleshootguide. I will update this post.

Nand x troubleshoot guide:

1: 0.01 multi set on 20 v
2: 0.33
3: 0.01
4: 0.04 multi set on 20 k ohms

5: 0.01 multi set on 20 v
6: 6.07 multi set on 20 k ohms

 

[jsinger47]

I can't see your CPU_RST area of your POST qsb due to the xclamp.

It isn't likely the problem, but every little bit counts here.

Also, check continuity between the C5R11 and the FT4R2 point. Should be continuous.

 

[xzanox]

Here are the pics of the cpu_rst. Just a sidenote: the glitching went perfect for this console with the cr3 pro before the demon...Guess the points are ok over there right? Edit: So because i have the post qsb there, i should test continuity with the cpu_rst point under the xclamp (FT4R2 point right) and the C5R11 on the qsb? Because now when i touch those with my Multi meter set to continuity, it doesn't give a signal at all.

 

[Martin C]

You need to repair those ripped pads - plain and simple.

 

[xzanox]

You need to repair those ripped pads - plain and simple.

I will def do that, I just heard that it wasn't necessary yet to get it booting. But better start doing that.

Any pointers on repairing them without having to put the demon back in its place again? I've read the demon alt points how to solder the wires from the demon pads to the nand or resistors. Any chance doing it without the demon? Just so that I know the console sill works stock?

 

[Martin C]

You need to resolder the via points to the adjoining resistors using trace wire if you're not going to reinstall the DemoN.

 

[jsinger47]

I will def do that, I just heard that it wasn't necessary yet to get it booting. But better start doing that.

Any pointers on repairing them without having to put the demon back in its place again? I've read the demon alt points how to solder the wires from the demon pads to the nand or resistors. Any chance doing it without the demon? Just so that I know the console sill works stock?

This was my mistake. I was confused between phat and slim boxes.

On a phat, those flash config points are dead end traces. You can rip them up all you please.

However, on a slim, those points are the vias that go up to the pull-down NAND legs to give you a good flash config (and good NAND connection).

In your pics, you can see that those traces go through 10K resistors to ground.

So yes, martin is correct. run a wire from the left side of the resistor up to the appropriate NAND leg.

EDIT: <MartinC> personally I'd just use a pin to open the via hole and use trace wire to solder to the resistor from there.

 

[xzanox]

Thanks guys!! I really appreciate all the help. I will be off to work now, but when i come home later tonight ill repair them them and update here. Have a good day in the meantime. Just to be sure: it would be like this and then in my situation i solder wire to two according legs of the nand as shown in the first picture?

What about the blue circled pad, how do i fix that one? i do like Jsinger says, open the hole a little with a sharp pin and try to solder a wire in the (more opened) via hole to the leg of the nand or is there a trace i need to fiberglass scrape and use?

Edit again: I just see that in my situation, it is the fourth (via hole) pad from below (black wire in the picture slim repair) and the sixth pad from below that needs to be fixed. The black wire isn't going anywhere just from the demon pad to the resistor. What should i do with that one? I mean i don't mind installing the demon again because it is a nice piece of hardware that i already paid for and would be a waste to throw away or not use it, but i firstly want to see if the xbox boots/starts without it. Basically first fix what is broken.

 

[Martin C]

Yes, you can ignore the blue circled pad for now. You just need to solder a trace wire for FT1T5 and FT1T4.

 

[xzanox]

Yes, you can ignore the blue circled pad for now. You just need to solder a trace wire for FT1T5 and FT1T4.

Cool, will do. Thank you kindly.

Edit: Just one (i hope last) more question: If you look at the slim repair picture (above your last post MartinC) you see that my missing pads are a black and pink wire (i know colors made for easy to follow connections) but i don't see these colors go to the nand legs....What can i do with that? If i need to scrape a trace and solder from there to the resistor, which two (or one?) traces should i use?

 

[Martin C]

You have all the information you need.

Repair FT1T5 by soldering it to the near side of R1T15. FT1T4 goes to the near side of R1T13.

 

[xzanox]

You have all the information you need.

Repair FT1T5 by soldering it to the near side of R1T15. FT1T4 goes to the near side of R1T13.

Sorry to sound this dumb, but i haven't had to repair any pads before. How am i supposed to repair the for example FT1T5 pad if there is nothing to solder to, the solder won't hold on that via point (i understand if the demon is in place, then i use those demon pads).

Can i cut off a really short part of the leg of a (for example 33 ohm) resistor and poke this in the tiny hole and then tin that and solder the other side of the leg to the mobo resistor? I am completely clueless now, while it probably is so easy to understand. I think i am having a black out moment... :S

Is it like i show on the added pic? The yellow line being the slightly bend and cut off resistor leg...


And if i have to just solder a wire to the near side of the resistor R1T15 and R1T13 and then to the legs of the nand on topside mobo, which legs exactly? I can't get wise from this picture where these two exactly go, because the black and pink wire only go from demon pads to resistors and stop there...

 

[Martin C]

This is why these types of installations are for pro installers.

For someone with sufficient skills, there's more than enough to solder to.

As you've shown in your image, you're repairing the trace. So yes - that's where you need to solder to.

 

[xzanox]

Got it.

 

[xzanox]

This is why these types of installations are for pro installers.

For someone with sufficient skills, there's more than enough to solder to.

As you've shown in your image, you're repairing the trace. So yes - that's where you need to solder to.

I just soldered wire to the via and to the resistor. I'm getting continuity again from both the via points to the NAND legs again. I will post a picture shortly, I have to go away for around 2 hours, but I thought I share this info already for some mind sharing. Still not booting/starting, only beep when pressing start. When I attach 5v red wire to cr3 pro again I get the red light so there is (standby) power to the mobo

 

[Martin C]

What was written to the NAND? Have you tried SPI read/write since?