ModMonster's Pics of Trace Repair with V Cut

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modmonster

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Sunday Afternoon, bin lids are playing in their rooms, belly is full of Sunday Roast so I thought I'd knock a few photos together of a PCB board from a Liteon 7 series (not that it matters - a trace cut is a trace cut).

Tools Used :

Liteon PCB
X-acto Knife
MultiMeter set to the icon with the speaker
Circuit Works Conductive pen with Micro Tip (CW2200MTP)




1. With NO power to the PCB check with the Multimeter that you have a circuit by probing these two pads. As in the picture below.




2. Take your PCB (Printed Circuit Board), then with your knife make a V cut as shown here and in all the tutorials. If your a heavy handed Bafoon, get someone else to do it. We are talking some very small cuts just enough to isolate the pad in question from the trace above.







3. Test again with the Multimeter at the same points as before (one of these pads is the one which you should have just isolated with your cut) your checking that the circuit is now broken i.e. your cutting has worked.


4. Take your conductive pen, shake well for about 60 seconds. You should hear a ball bearing moving about which is mixing the fluid in the pen together. Then dab the nib of the pen onto a piece of paper while squeezing the pen to get a flow going. This is a gloopy substance rather than a runny liquid. Dab the nib of the pen onto the area you have cut as per the photo below. Don't drown the Feckin' thing, only a tiny, tiny amount is needed !

5. Allow the conductive glue to dry 10 minutes is more than enough (You can use a hair dryer to speed it up), and then re-test with the multimeter at the two pads. i.e. the one you just glued and the other on the left hand side.




6. Your Repaired V Cut should now look something like this or better!



7. Alternatively, if you have some soldering skill, you can fix exactly the same v cut as per the picture below. See how little is required to fix these cuts? Tiny bits, whether your using glue or solder.



8. Send all your money to modmonster or hit the Thanks Button!

Done! :D

THIS IS NOT ROCKET SCIENCE - THIS IS VERY VERY SIMPLE AND AN IDIOT COULD DO IT - ALL THIS GARBAGE PEOPLE POSTING THAT THEY DON'T KNOW HOW TO MAKE THE CUT OR DON'T KNOW HOW TO DO THIS OR THAT - SERIOUSLY GET A GRIP - ITS SIMPLE !!!


UPDATE:

This method of key extraction has been superseded by the Probe 3 (aka PMT) method. You should be looking to use this over the trace cut route.


-Martin C
 
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Xecuter

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I'm sorry this post doesn't make any sense. From what you have shown is that this is super easy and it follows the instructions exactly as written. But its supposed to be incredibly difficult and scary to do ?

i don't get it ? :rolleyes:
 

incoltswetrust

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Apr 4, 2010
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hmm so with solder it doesnt actually has to cover the whole part of the cut just the middle of it to get the circuit going?
 

incoltswetrust

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Apr 4, 2010
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ya man, but i guess if you gonna solder it up, you have to expose the PCB bc the solder won't stick unless its metal.
 

modmonster

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Yes, another true statement. You've made cuts......cuts through the green varnish......you fill the cuts with solder...... Done.

You can remove a little more green varnish if you want, but Ive seen a lot of photos where half of the varnish has been removed.
Totally unnecessary
 

BloodRose

Senior Member
Apr 29, 2010
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I think that a lot of the confusion here is because in that picture there you have only added a little paint/solder to the cut where as most people, myself included, automatically assume that you would need to cover the entire cut in order to correctly repair the trace.
 

incoltswetrust

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Apr 4, 2010
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I think that a lot of the confusion here is because in that picture there you have only added a little paint/solder to the cut where as most people, myself included, automatically assume that you would need to cover the entire cut in order to correctly repair the trace.
exactly! i thought everything had to be perfectly covered. im gonna do my first one today, ill let u know how it goes.:D
 

modmonster

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Your suggesting that your cuts are much much bigger.
Make them smaller, then you a) have less room for error and b) less work to do.
If the object of the cut is to isolate the pad, then the object of the repair is unisolate the pad.
If youve made your cuts too big, then your repair is going to be big. The trouble with big cuts, is you make mistakes and start repairing bit which shouldnt be touched with glue or solder and then they short out and everyone comes on complaing about drive not working.

MAKE YOUR CUTS SMALLER, as in the picture
 

modmonster

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If youve removed a ton of green varnish, FFS dont cover the entire ****ing thing in solder or glue. You repair the trace, fill in the trace whatever you want to call it, just fill in the bits on the board that youve 'damaged'
 

BloodRose

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Apr 29, 2010
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I also noticed there that you didn't sand down the lacquer first which I thought was generally recommended (although I know that you kind of explained that above) and that your multimeter detects a current without the varnish being removed which mine doesn't unfortunately so obviously it really helps if your multimeter is decent.

It's a great guide though and I'll definitely be referring to it when my own probe arrives. Thanks Modmonster.
 
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BloodRose

Senior Member
Apr 29, 2010
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Yes testing from the pads doesn't really seem to work on mine when the pads are varnished unfortunately.

I may just have a crap multimeter though to be honest, it was £4.99 from Maplin.