ModMonster's Pics of Trace Repair with V Cut

Was this Post Helpful?


  • Total voters
    46

marshamods

VIP Member
Mar 7, 2010
1,908
0
ohio
that makes no sense for a beginner to use a rotary device on a delicate pcb board. I believe you f'ed up your board. Give teajunkie or xmods a ring.
 

Loomingx

VIP Member
Oct 19, 2010
250
0
Canada
Alrighty...so rotary tool for my skill level is a no no. I'll most likely sent off the drive to one of the members mentioned above but I'm going to give the MRA method another try one I get a new Lite-On drive.

Other than not using a rotary tool is there anything else I should do to improve my chance of success? Did I **** up my V cut by making it to close to the pad? Etc...
 

modmonster

VIP Member
Nov 7, 2009
4,646
0
Cheshire, UK
xboxmods.wordpress.com
Why do you have two different pictures?
Is this the same drive?
If this is the drive from your xbox, there's no point buying a new Liteon as you'll still need the key off the original drive.
 

Loomingx

VIP Member
Oct 19, 2010
250
0
Canada
I'm sending the one lite-on drive I need to have fixed to Teajunkie and the other lite-on is from a fully exploitable Jasper.


edit: Botched drive has been sent to Teajunkie. Fibreglass scratch pen came in the other day and I decided to try to the jumper method again...

Voila!





I don't give up that easy but now I have to get my Jasper Jtagged...ugh
 
Last edited:

msamiullah

Noob Account
Dec 8, 2010
2
0
I just wana ask one thng the two traces of the pad (the down one is to be soldered in such a way that the two traces get connect to each other through the conductor soldered ?
 

garageinc

VIP Member
Mar 7, 2010
1,878
0
peterborough UK
i really don't get any confusion on how to do this. i was paranoid as hell about doing it, took my time, read the tut a few times so i had it clear in my head, made tiniest cuts possible, put the tiniest amount of conductive glue on for the repair, so little infact i could barely see it lol and it worked like a charm first attempt. needles to say i bought ALL the recommended tools for the job, scratch pen, approved glue, probe 2 and exacto knife. ck3 pro rev d i already had, all this = PIECE OF CAKE and above all no silly questions needed.... at least not on this topic lol
 

mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
0
Birmingham, UK
I would also like to add to this post that I have just done my first 'V' cut and repair with no problems either.

A lot of people in the UK might be trying to source these Exacto knifes but a gentle steady hand with a Stanley knife works just fine.

The only thing I will say is that the bottle of conductive glue that TE are selling comes with nothing to apply it with. Luckily I had a silver pen which I've used instead.

Cheers
Mark
 

subzdarg

Full Member
Nov 2, 2009
68
0
leominster
I'm sending the one lite-on drive I need to have fixed to Teajunkie and the other lite-on is from a fully exploitable Jasper.


edit: Botched drive has been sent to Teajunkie. Fibreglass scratch pen came in the other day and I decided to try to the jumper method again...

Voila!





I don't give up that easy but now I have to get my Jasper Jtagged...ugh
wow i feel sorry for his jtag looking at his work he gonna blow it up lol send it to someone with some skills aleast wow some ppl just dont take advice
 

Defocused

Junior Member
Oct 2, 2011
12
0
If your unsure, make the first cuts in the v shape and test continuity with a multimeter.
You don't need to cut down far as your only going through a thin trace of copper.
Pad 101 is the hole connected to the trace where you do the v cut.
A lot of people don't take enough care and destroy the pad, removing it from the barrel completely.
It's fixable but leads to more complications.
Hey ModMonster, big graz for all your nice pics and tuts. Read tons of pages on this site, especially from the main thread http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52557 Instead of rambling, id rather show my problem via images and prey for mercy on behalf of my stupidity :( btw. bought all the required items from the list, except i now believe my main problem was the tip of my soldering iron being .6mm and had a hard time getting the solder to stay on the board and make a good connection.

PICTURES: https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/11199673/1/Liteon?h=59822d

PS. Forgot to mention that i have not gotten my key yet. At a point i got the lt switch to light red/green when switch was turned on r-w/normal, but jf would not detect it, so went over my soldering again / trace cuts, but from then on i cut not get it to light...
 
Last edited:

mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
0
Birmingham, UK
Hey ModMonster, big graz for all your nice pics and tuts. Read tons of pages on this site, especially from the main thread http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52557 Instead of rambling, id rather show my problem via images and prey for mercy on behalf of my stupidity :( btw. bought all the required items from the list, except i now believe my main problem was the tip of my soldering iron being .6mm and had a hard time getting the solder to stay on the board and make a good connection.

PICTURES: https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/11199673/1/Liteon?h=59822d
Hi Defocused

Looking at your pcb pictures I would just bridge your points with some fine guage kynar wire mate. Apply some flux to the exposed copper traces, place one stripped end of the kynar wire onto your trace, tin your solder iron and touch it on the wire and trace for just a second or two, should find it will stick just fine.

Your bottom two pads, the ones that are together, look pretty black. Have they been lifted off when you removed the LT switch?
 

Defocused

Junior Member
Oct 2, 2011
12
0
Hi Defocused

Looking at your pcb pictures I would just bridge your points with some fine guage kynar wire mate. Apply some flux to the exposed copper traces, place one stripped end of the kynar wire onto your trace, tin your solder iron and touch it on the wire and trace for just a second or two, should find it will stick just fine.

Your bottom two pads, the ones that are together, look pretty black. Have they been lifted off when you removed the LT switch?
Thx for the fast reply :) To your first advice, are you not talking about fixing the pcb now? og just repairing it before i should attempt to solder the lt switch again?

And im afraid that your question about the pads are true. Have spent 5+ hours soldering back and forth. Sometimes removing all solder, cleaning with isopropyl alchohol and starting over. And im afraid it all comes down to my iron being too big to make those small solder blops. And make them like the picture from the guide. Mine would just form small round blobs, not being very well connected to the pcb :/

Another forgotten to mention: Have added on more picture from the top of the Lt switch. I believe the copper pad to the right is missing all the copper :/ tried to scrape the plastic next to it with my fiber brush, but to no avail. Am so close to pulling my hair of and throwing the towel down.... phew tough day
 

mcornbill

VIP Member
Jan 2, 2003
176
0
Birmingham, UK
Hi Defocused

Well it actually looks like three pads are gone, and yes one of your copper pads on the LT switch has gone as well. I would give in with the LT switch now, I highly doubt you will be able to fix it. Have you got a probe 2 or probe 3 at all and do you have access to a multimeter?

If you have a multimeter then you can check to see if these pads are shot. Set the meter to the resistance (Ω) setting, 20k will do. Probe the red point with one end, and the yellow point with the other end of the multimeter prongs. Check each burnt pad in red seprately along with its corresponding yellow unburnt pad, they both need to be on the same track.

The multimeter will read 1 when there is no flow between the two points, it will go to 0 if there is flow. If your burnt pads are not showing flow to the good pads circled in yellow then give up mate and see if anybody can help you ;-)



Cheers
Mark
 

Defocused

Junior Member
Oct 2, 2011
12
0
Yo mark, thx for the great reply. I'll see if i can get my hands on a multimeter to check if the board is toast. In regard to your other question, i shamefully have to say i have a xtractor 2 and a spear. And the via card. I was close to ordering a probe 3 yesterday cuz a guy said the power it needed didnt matter if it was the ck3 or xtractor. But All that dont matter if i liftet the pads, yeah? Ty for All your advice. Muchly appreciated


---
 
Last edited:

Defocused

Junior Member
Oct 2, 2011
12
0
Hi Defocused

Well it actually looks like three pads are gone, and yes one of your copper pads on the LT switch has gone as well. I would give in with the LT switch now, I highly doubt you will be able to fix it. Have you got a probe 2 or probe 3 at all and do you have access to a multimeter?

If you have a multimeter then you can check to see if these pads are shot. Set the meter to the resistance (Ω) setting, 20k will do. Probe the red point with one end, and the yellow point with the other end of the multimeter prongs. Check each burnt pad in red seprately along with its corresponding yellow unburnt pad, they both need to be on the same track.

The multimeter will read 1 when there is no flow between the two points, it will go to 0 if there is flow. If your burnt pads are not showing flow to the good pads circled in yellow then give up mate and see if anybody can help you ;-)

Link To Image

Cheers
Mark
Hey mark

tested the board as suggested with a multimeter, and "luckily" only one "missing" pad returned no flow. I have marked it on a picture.

https://www.dropbox.com/gallery/1119...iteon?h=59822d

Have read alot about fixing the pads, some from http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/4-5-1.shtml, but that would require epoxy or some kind of tape to do the trick :/

Another one from here advised me to repair the pads, by soldering fine kynar wire to the hole where the pads were lifted.

If this can be fixed, ill just order the probe 3 and hope that works.

gratz
 
Last edited:

Martin C

VIP Member
Jan 10, 2004
36,033
0
Scotland, UK
www.team-xecuter.com
I see two options here:

1. Send the board to someone to fix.
2. RGH the console (if it's HDMI) and get the DVD key that way. You can then apply it to a replacement drive.

I've no idea why people are still doing MRA work on drive boards when the probe 3 has been out for so many months. Props to the OP on this thread but I daresay this should now be closed for comments.