thank you guys i'm going to take some pics of what i've done and post them after i get home from work...T.I.A.
RGH Nand dump errors
- Thread starter satans1978
- Start date
ok. little late but as promised here is the pic of the front of my crappy installation.
EDIT. i took the picture of the FRONT, while the coolrunner was switched to "program" so i know that it should be on "nor" for normal operation.... just f.y.i.
and here is the back part, i'm not sure if the points on the back might need a little more solder, as i used as little as possible.
EDIT. i took the picture of the FRONT, while the coolrunner was switched to "program" so i know that it should be on "nor" for normal operation.... just f.y.i.
and here is the back part, i'm not sure if the points on the back might need a little more solder, as i used as little as possible.
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looks like you have bridged the resistor at R3B15 just below R3B14 at the tip of the QSB - also - difficult to tell from the pic, but it looks like there may be some slight bridging at the picn header section of the QSB too on the far left
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i thought that this resistor was supposed to be bridged .... ?
with this part i was looking at it undert the magnifying glass and trying to clean it up, and i made bigger mess out of it then it originally was
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nope - clean up that solder with some wick, and then resolder to the right hand pad - without touching the resistor to the right
Martin C
VIP Member
Far left must be ok as these are the NAND-x points.
OP - take a closer pic of the top right of the QSB. Use Macro zoom on your camera (normally a picture of a flower). Don't get too close to it - Samsung Galaxy II's have an 8 megapixel camera on them.
OP - take a closer pic of the top right of the QSB. Use Macro zoom on your camera (normally a picture of a flower). Don't get too close to it - Samsung Galaxy II's have an 8 megapixel camera on them.
thank you guys, i'm going to re-take the pics like you say, and fix the part by the resistor...will post the pics in few hrs.
Also I zoomed in on your pix, looks like on your QSB they are cold soldered, in the future clean your tip with alcohol and tin it and clean, the solder will flow quickly and don't forget to use a small amount flux at each point before soldering But if it’s working don’t touch it.:eek2:
Also your Coolrunner is set to PRG. That switch is for programming with the installation already done, afaik. So if it's already programmed, set it to NOR.
below is from the op
-he's got it coveredeasy to miss with those big pictures though mate lo
ok. i'm going to post some pics, i've been tinkering with the installation,
1. i fixed the mess by HANA chip.
2. cleaned up and re-did all the solder points again.
3. here is where i was getting some progress, the green light would come on periodically as per directions. it blinked four times and then it boots into xbox dash. i did more clean-up work and then five green blinks and still goes to xbox dashboard. = NO XELL (for cpu key)
4. the way i got to this point is after writing .ecc file to nand i programmed and installed the coolrunner.... was the .ecc written to nand incorrectly since i'm booting to regular xbox dash ?
now i'm thinking that maybe it was because i used the trinity1.1.xsvf file from nandprov3 folder and not the trinity.xsvf (i opened both in hex editor and there are big differences in hex code)... which one should be used ?? also what is the SlimPlusPost.xsvf for ?
now my final question is... is flux in paste better or liquid ? also at this point my soldering skills are a little better (watched the video on how to solder right, and took apart old router and practiced soldering on there), so i'm thinking of removing the QSB from the console and using wire points. any suggestions ?
1. i fixed the mess by HANA chip.
2. cleaned up and re-did all the solder points again.
3. here is where i was getting some progress, the green light would come on periodically as per directions. it blinked four times and then it boots into xbox dash. i did more clean-up work and then five green blinks and still goes to xbox dashboard. = NO XELL (for cpu key)
4. the way i got to this point is after writing .ecc file to nand i programmed and installed the coolrunner.... was the .ecc written to nand incorrectly since i'm booting to regular xbox dash ?
now i'm thinking that maybe it was because i used the trinity1.1.xsvf file from nandprov3 folder and not the trinity.xsvf (i opened both in hex editor and there are big differences in hex code)... which one should be used ?? also what is the SlimPlusPost.xsvf for ?
now my final question is... is flux in paste better or liquid ? also at this point my soldering skills are a little better (watched the video on how to solder right, and took apart old router and practiced soldering on there), so i'm thinking of removing the QSB from the console and using wire points. any suggestions ?
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Trinity - use the QSB - better glitch and better signal.
Use the trinity.xsvf provided in the guide by team xecuter
I alwasy use flux liquid and clean up after with IPA
paste will do just as good a job though
Use the trinity.xsvf provided in the guide by team xecuter
I alwasy use flux liquid and clean up after with IPA
paste will do just as good a job though
Booting to XeLL for cpu key still doesn't work
i have the rosin soldering flux from radio shack is that as good ?
ALSO, can i try to re-program the coolrunner while it's installed (soldered) to the mobo ? or will it cause issues
IPA paste ??
i have the rosin soldering flux from radio shack is that as good ?
ALSO, can i try to re-program the coolrunner while it's installed (soldered) to the mobo ? or will it cause issues
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ohh i see.
and as far as my xbox... i think i screwed up... i tried to program the board while it was connected on the xbox. and now i removed the coolrunner wires and when i try to connect to the nand i get:
Error: Could Not Connect to flash controller.
Question.2.= my dash was updated to the latest dash on nov 17th. or 18th. and they sent me the dae.bin that everyone was talking about when i was connected to live with a backup... i started the RGH after i got the dae.bin would that cause problems ??
Question.3.= can one use the J2C1 and J2C3 on the back of the mobo to re-write the nand and start over with the hack ?