RGH No Boot

DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
I have a Falcon that i'm having problems with. I have installed with QSB's, install was fine, box has been working but was crashing. Now the Xbox won't boot. I have 32.8Ohms from CR to resistor closest to HANA chip. All other soldering is sound, nothing has been moved since the install. Something is messing with my STDBY_CLK signal......what i don't know, but i continually get the 33ohms expected. Any ideas?

Install Pictures http://imageshack.us/g/407/photo5lx.jpg/
 
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DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
They're up dude
 

ll4sheezy

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Oct 8, 2010
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Indiana, USA
When you say it's not booting are saying when you try to power it own you get no light?

Btw sorry I think I looked over the link to the pics.


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RROD!

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Apr 13, 2011
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Hi buddy best thing I can say ATM is if it was working then look over your soldering 90% of the time it's down to that also some of your joints not looking to good bud sorry don't mean to be rude but go over them again can you post pics of under the mobo too please have you tried moving the wires under the mobo to see if that helps?
 

DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
When it boots its glitches 1st or second time. But when it doesn't, there are no fans, no green light, nothing, just the red light on the CR and the brick is orange. The weird thing is, with it sat here open for the last hour, having not changed anything, i have had it boot twice just in-between reading things and searching around. It literally boots when it can be bothered.

---------- Post added at 02:23 ---------- Previous post was at 02:19 ----------

Hi buddy best thing I can say ATM is if it was working then look over your soldering 90% of the time it's down to that also some of your joints not looking to good bud sorry don't mean to be rude but go over them again can you post pics of under the mobo too please have you tried moving the wires under the mobo to see if that helps?
I 100% appreciate that, and i've checked over everything with a multimeter. Under the board is all good, not gonna mess with that just yet as when it glitches its straight in. Its literally getting it to power up at all that i'm struggling with, will only boot when it wants to. I have good continuity from the CR to the resistor next to the HANA.
 

ll4sheezy

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Oct 8, 2010
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Indiana, USA
Also take a look at you stby_clk soldering. Make sure the solder from the qsb to that point are soldered good and the solder ismt just sitting on top of the point. It almost looks the qsb is a little low to connect good to the r4b24 point.


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DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
Yup, i get that to, but if it wasn't making it would never have glitched at all, plus i get continuity right across the QSB to the resistor. 32.6-8 Ohms every time.
 

RROD!

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Apr 13, 2011
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When it boots its glitches 1st or second time. But when it doesn't, there are no fans, no green light, nothing, just the red light on the CR and the brick is orange. The weird thing is, with it sat here open for the last hour, having not changed anything, i have had it boot twice just in-between reading things and searching around. It literally boots when it can be bothered.

---------- Post added at 02:23 ---------- Previous post was at 02:19 ----------



I 100% appreciate that, and i've checked over everything with a multimeter. Under the board is all good, not gonna mess with that just yet as when it glitches its straight in. Its literally getting it to power up at all that i'm struggling with, will only boot when it wants to. I have good continuity from the CR to the resistor next to the HANA.
Ok bud if your really sure soldering is good and under the mobo too then have a good look at how your wires that run under the board Are and if moving helps ..how have you got them running ATM?
 

DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
I rerouted them exactly as per ubers pic after i had the first freezing problem. Seemed to fix it for a bit and now i'm back where i started. Tomorrow i'm gonna remove the QSB's and go direct wires, i have my hand so gonna just solder the 3.3v straight on and use the alt STDBY_CLK. None of what i'm seeing makes any sense. I have good continuity, over the biggest problem area. Drives me nuts!!
 

ll4sheezy

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Oct 8, 2010
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Indiana, USA
I rerouted them exactly as per ubers pic after i had the first freezing problem. Seemed to fix it for a bit and now i'm back where i started. Tomorrow i'm gonna remove the QSB's and go direct wires, i have my hand so gonna just solder the 3.3v straight on and use the alt STDBY_CLK. None of what i'm seeing makes any sense. I have good continuity, over the biggest problem area. Drives me nuts!!
RROD! You beat me to that. Lol. I was going to ask about his wire routing on the bottom.

DayvG, i have read some ppl say they have had better success with using the alt stdby_clk point. So your thoughts of trying it instead may be a good idea to try. I feel your pain man. Sorry. Let us know your results.


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DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
Cheers man, after effing up my first falcon I was proper careful with this one. I just don't get what's interfering with it. I can literally not touch it and 10 minutes later it boots. I pull the power. Then it won't boot. Then it might a bit later?!? It's messing with my melon!!
 

RROD!

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Apr 13, 2011
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If the board is out have you tried holding the wires away from the mobo under to see if that helps ? But like you said b point is one of the norm to give you probs like this but you have tested that with multimeter so next you will have to try the wires under the board and if still no joy look over the soldered joints again and like you said leave the QSB and use the alt points for the 3v and b point ..sounds about the best way to go buddy right tracks just a little pain in the ass getting there at least you know it boots tho:D
 
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DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
I may just try removing the STDBY_CLK from the coolrunner as I may be getting some interference from there? I just literally don't know where do go from here! Something is causing it to only boot when it wants to!

---------- Post added at 02:51 ---------- Previous post was at 02:47 ----------

Wheres Martin C when you need him, he always has the answers lol Ah well, bed for now, see what tomorrow brings. Cheers fellas, much appreciated. :D
 

RROD!

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Apr 13, 2011
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But still try pulling the wires away from under the mobo first just let them hang see if it helps and post pics or give a link to the tut that you use to lay them out
 

DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
I used FiB3Rs guide and Ubers wiring guide from the CR installation Forum. I'll post my findings tomorrow, cheers again buddy.
 

DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
Ok, let's say some of my soldering points are poor on the QSB, how about the Coolrunner itself. I'm sure they all look fine. What I don't understand is why I'd get occasional boots if the QSB weren't good. I dumped my NAND just fine. Which wires on the coolrunner would affect the boot process?? Ie Nothing at all?
 

DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
Just tried booting after leaving it overnight and it booted straight up. powered down and tried again and nothing! This is weird!
 

DayvG

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Apr 26, 2007
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Gosport, UK
Ok, sorted it! What an effing nightmare! Desoldered the QSB point for the STDBY_CLK. pressed power and away she went. I then removed the QSB totally, put the 3v directly into the board, soldered the STDBY_CLK back and voila, all sorted, glitching straight away. No freezing or crashing as yet, and powers up at every press of the button. Weird!! I would understand if I wasn't getting continuity from the coolrunner to the HANA side if the resistor, but I was?!? Looks like direct wires from now on!

Thanks for all your help and suggestions guys. :D