No Glitch, No Green Light

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walkities

Full Member
Oct 3, 2011
29
0
Hey all Im relatively new to this whole thing but have read and read and read without much success.

I cant get my falcon board to glitch and boot into XELL, I just end up with a black screen and do not get a green light blinking when booting. The green light does come on when I programmed it. I figured it was my soldering so I grabbed a multimeter. Perhaps I dont know any better but from checking my points they all seem to be giving a closed circuit.

I have the TX QSB boards installed and had successful reads from the NAND and both were the same.

But maybe Im doing it wrong. I did use a couple alternate points, both STBY_CLK (seemed easier and I couldnt get the QSB to solder) and POST_OUT1 (Pad burnt).

I may not be using the multimeter right Im not sure, perhaps someone can answer these to let me know.

I tested CPU_RST by flipping the board over and using the same point on the top side and touching the other end of my multimeter to the point on my coolrunner (got a 0)

I tested PLL_BYPASS by touching one end to the resistor just below my wire on the underside of the board to the point on my coolrunner (got a 0)

Tested both GRN and 3v3 with no issues.

I tested STBY_CLK by soldering to the alternate point to C4N27 (I see there is another one should I change it?) and tested it by touching the end of the R4B24 resistor to the coolrunner board (got a 0).

POST_OUT was soldered into the alternate point on the top side of the board as I had a pad burnt on the underside so I was unsure of where to test this, I tested one end in the burnt area on the underside and one on the coolrunner (got a 0)

I didnt have wire lying around so to use the alternate STBY_CLK I used a wire from another coolrunner I had (green).

Im hoping someone can help me out with this, and Im trying to go through a process of elimination of sorts and figured first was to find out if my soldering is the problem. I do have some pics, the only one I dont have is of POST_OUT as I didnt want to remove the heatsink if I didnt have to.
 
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lio_x

VIP Member
Oct 4, 2011
376
0
your problem is with the ALT point for B
use FT2R2 as jhonson suggested

your ALT point wont work on most consoles
 
socalbill

socalbill

VIP Member
Nov 30, 2011
356
0
Valhalla
Not so much as a reply to OP since several users have mentioned it to him, but a general observation. I do not know why people insist on using that test point under the Hana. That is connected directly to the via that is in between the Hana chip and resistor. That point should be used only for repair if you messed up on top. And if you did mess up on top, there is no need to scratch and solder to traces, just leave it alone.

All you need to do is solder a kynar wire from that point to a 33ohm resistor, then another kynar wire to the FT2R2 test point. This replicates the resistor/trace that is on top. Then just solder another wire from B on the CR to the FT2R2 side of the resistor. Tack to the mobo with glue, and maybe put shrinkwrap sleeves over the resistor leads where you soldered. I suck at graphics but this is the gist of it.
 
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walkities

Full Member
Oct 3, 2011
29
0
The top pad isnt damaged from what I can see, I just have the quicksolder board installed which was giving me more trouble then soldering an actual wire.

I havent had a chance to try the proper alternate point as suggested but would it be wiser to solder a wire to the actual point on top of the board instead of using an alternate? Ill post my results when I get home from the job and Ill post some pictures of POST_OUT if the alternate point doesnt work.
 
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daftdog198

Senior Member
Oct 8, 2011
140
0
doncaster
also try running the green and blue wire closer to where the xclamps should be on the bottom of the board.
I always put them there on falcons and get boots 1st time
 
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walkities

Full Member
Oct 3, 2011
29
0
Sorry all tried to reply to this the other day but the forum was doing some maintenance. I will check into some of the suggestions in terms of wiring but was asked to post my POST_OUT,

I've attached it here



I forgot to test for continuity on it but will when I get back from work, I originally tried under the board on the burnt pad but figure Ill just check it on the trace that this point is attached to or is that a bad idea?

Thanks all for the help
 
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walkities

Full Member
Oct 3, 2011
29
0
Just wanted to drop the solution,thanks daft i rerouted the blue wire up towards the green wire around where the xclamps are and all is well. Got the box glitching now no problems. Thanks!
 
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axelll

VIP Member
Mar 1, 2011
469
17
Everywhere
2 Tips:

1. Get a smaller tip for your soldering iron.
2. Hold the wires in place with tape. After it glitches, put the MB back in the case. If it glitches like it should, remove back the mobo from the cage and then apply hot glue to the wires.
 
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