RGH No power after writing NAND

[PaddyPat]

I have a Jasper 256 MB. I made it through the following steps just fine:

- soldered QSB
- dumped NAND twice
- compared fine
- programmed Coolrunner
- installed Coolrunner
- made .ecc file (multibuild 0.4)
- wrote NAND
- booted up real fast to XELL and got CPU key
- made ggbuild image (multibuild 0.4)
- wrote NAND in XELL using flash drive

Then I went to go put it all back together and when I tried to start it up I had no power and the Coolrunner light was solid red. Upon closer inspection I noticed the STNDY_CLK point on the QSB became detached and I couldn't get it to solder back on. So I tried to clean it up and use the alternate point.

I still have no power and cannot read or write the NAND, so something must be bridged somewhere. I checked the other points on both QSB's with a multimeter and they all seem fine.

Is the STNDY_CLK point shown in the picture the problem?

thanks

 

[BL4K3Y]

Yes, it looks like you pulled the trace that joins stby_clk to the resistor.....

Have a look at this image, solder the wire from the side of the resistor and then to the trace.

 

[Mickey3177]

Use a meter to check the STNDY_CLK, it's hard to tell if the trace is broke. Your QSB look fine but what about your CPU_PLL_BYPASS, lets see pic of the other points if you could. Nice close ups you took BTW, real easy to see

 

[djnateb]

i think its easier to connect a wire to the left side of the resistor (r3b15) and then the alternate point on the back of the board i think its ft something cant remember there a guide on here somewhere thats what i had to do and its easier than the original solder point

 

[PaddyPat]

Yes, it looks like you pulled the trace that joins stby_clk to the resistor.....

Have a look at this image, solder the wire from the side of the resistor and then to the trace.

Just lightly remove some of the material on the trace then solder directly to the board like in the picture. The trace is under the QSB, so I might have to cut the arm off. I won't be using that point anyway.

Use a meter to check the STNDY_CLK, it's hard to tell if the trace is broke. Your QSB look fine but what about your CPU_PLL_BYPASS, lets see pic of the other points if you could. Nice close ups you took BTW, real easy to see

I will check with a multimeter to see if the trace is really broken.
I've read too many posts where people don't post pics or post really bad cell phone pics, so I strive to be a leader in that area. Sadly, I would rather not have to be making this post!

i think its easier to connect a wire to the left side of the resistor (r3b15) and then the alternate point on the back of the board i think its ft something cant remember there a guide on here somewhere thats what i had to do and its easier than the original solder point

It does appear that the trace runs to the other side of the motherboard to a point, so I'll have to investigate that.


I'm at work right now, so I'll post more pictures later and try to fix that point.

 

[PaddyPat]

So, I connected a 30 gauge wire to the trace and to the one side of the resistor. But, I might have made it worse in the process. There is no continuity between both sides of the resistor I attached it to, so it may be fried.

It still does not have power and can't read the NAND. All other points look fine.

Anyone have any other ideas?

 

[esbmaepo]

So, I connected a 30 gauge wire to the trace and to the one side of the resistor. But, I might have made it worse in the process. There is no continuity between both sides of the resistor I attached it to, so it may be fried.

It still does not have power and can't read the NAND. All other points look fine.

Anyone have any other ideas?

It is not a good repair I'm afraid. Start over again. Maybe you should use solder paste instead.

Its precisely because of this that you cannot read NAND.

 

[jaymbyrne]

you could remove wire and check for continuity first between resistor and point you stripped back on board .if that beeps fine on multimeter you will need to solder wire then

 

[PaddyPat]

It is not a good repair I'm afraid. Start over again. Maybe you should use solder paste instead.

Its precisely because of this that you cannot read NAND.

Can you elaborate about what is not good about the repair? Is it the solder to the resistor or the solder to the trace? Do you think the resistor is still good or will it have to be replaced?

you could remove wire and check for continuity first between resistor and point you stripped back on board .if that beeps fine on multimeter you will need to solder wire then

There was no continuity between the resistor and the point on the board.

 

[esbmaepo]

Can you elaborate about what is not good about the repair? Is it the solder to the resistor or the solder to the trace? Do you think the resistor is still good or will it have to be replaced?



There was no continuity between the resistor and the point on the board.

Solder to trace doesn't look good. If you plug in power supply, you should be able to get voltage reading on both sides of that resistor (ca 1.8v). If you do then its still good.


Of course there were no continuity between resistor and point on board, its broken

 

[keil423]

TBH I hate to counter Blakey but I dont see any damage to the trace in question. In your more recent pic I can clearly see the copper trace and pad are both still there. Not to sure what you other guys are looking at?

 

[RROD!]

TBH I hate to counter Blakey but I dont see any damage to the trace in question. In your more recent pic I can clearly see the copper trace and pad are both still there. Not to sure what you other guys are looking at?

yer i am sure i can still see the trace in you first pics it if i was you id get the multimeter out and start testing before you do anymore soldering
have you any pics of the soldering under you board

 

[Mickey3177]

I had him check it and he said he had no connection, I also thought it looked like trace was ok....Hummmm

 

[PaddyPat]

I have added pictures from the underside of the motherboard, including the alternate point for STDBY_CLK.

I checked the voltage across the resistor. According to the picture, the left side shows 1.76 V and the right side shows 0. So, that answers that question.
There is another thread where they cover replacing this resistor.
http://team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75154&highlight=resistor

So, that is probably the next step for me. It might be a few days before I can get the resistor, but it will be good to cool my head a bit.
I've come to terms that I might have to send it away to get fixed and that may be the best course of action.

If anyone else has something to add I would like to hear it.

I want to thank everybody for taking the time to look and help me with this problem. I've gotten a lot further with your help than I would have on my own.

 

[Martin C]

I checked the voltage across the resistor. According to the picture, the left side shows 1.76 V and the right side shows 0. So, that answers that question.

Voltages don't actually mean much here, you need to check the resistance. The STBY_CLK resistor should be around 35 Ohms when measured. If you're getting >10MOhm then it needs replacing.

 

[PaddyPat]

Voltages don't actually mean much here, you need to check the resistance. The STBY_CLK resistor should be around 35 Ohms when measured. If you're getting >10MOhm then it needs replacing.

I can't even get a reading from that resistor, so I'm sure that means it's shot. The other resistors in that vicinity read ~34 Ohms.

Thanks Martin

 

[Martin C]

No worries. If you can solder SMD then it's a 5 minute fix. PM me if you want it sorted.

 

[x23are]

i had this problem today.when i was changing nandflasher wires whit other wires a small bridge existed between 5&7(J2B1).but i didnt understand.
so when i push power botton console didnt power. i checked i cut the bridge whit a needle and it powered on.