Odd question on switching chips (has to do with wires)

[McEgan]

Just took out my old 2.6b pro after ordering a new X3. I didn't wrap 2 of the exposed copper wires and they were fraying and eventually broke off. Ahh well, time for an upgrade anyway.

So, I unnsoldered all the LPC wires, cleaned off the tops of them with desoldering braid (made the filled holes level with the board) and now have just the D0 wire still connected. I snipped the end of it from the old pro so I can just easily solder the new d0 to the old (btw, will this work?). Xbox is a 1.5.

Anyways, my problem is that with everything gone except for the d0, the xbox will not boot up to regular old MS dash. It instead frags. This could potentially not be a problem if this is what is supposed to happen when a d0 that goes nowhere is connected. My X3 comes in tommorow and I just want to make sure before I get all the wires in to fix any potential problems beforehand. Can anyone tell me if this is normal or if something has gone wrong with the desoldering that I need to check?

The only thing potentially wrong that I see is that there is some black on trace leading to the 3rd one from the bottom on the left on the LPC (from the tutorials point of view.) I've read that this could be solder residue left behind? Is that a problem? I think the trace is still there because I can see exposed copper leading to the hole, but I didn't expect it with a magnifying glass so take that with a grain of salt

So, can anyone help ease my mind that everything is alright (or destroy my world by telling me it's screwed, whatever ). Thanks for any help you can give.

 

[JimBobUK]

You really do need to get the box working before the new install!

If I were you I would go get some solder braid!
Check all the areas from first solder job.

Do you have your stock HDD? if so may be worth trying that before continuing!

Let us know how you get on

 

[McEgan]

I used solder braid the first time to level out the solder with the board. It left some nasty grease looking stuff around though. Could that be a problem? I want to take all the solder out from each hole but I can only seem to get the top of it and little ways down before it won't pick up anymore. Any tricks for that? I'll look around with a magnifying glass and see what's up and try to clean off some more of the solder tommorow. Thanks for the reply.

 

[bnbolic]

What you are looking at is a lifted trace. Your motherboard is f**ked if you see two little pieces of copper where one of your wires used to be connected to the mobo (use magnifying glass) If the area is blackened then this adds weight to my theory. If its broken you may be able to bridge the trace. See tutorial at www.llama.com. Or send it to them.$49 repair.

 

[McEgan]

Well, I did eventually get it to work again and then started to try the wire install for the X3 (since the some of the holes already had solder from a previous install. But they didnt work, so I decided to just try and take out all the solder to do the pinheader (since it is so fervently recommended by them). Well, that was a bust, I tried and tried but could not get the damn solder out of some of the holes. Apparently I tried too hard because now it frags when I start it (with no wires in) just like before. But this time, I can't find ANYTHING wrong, except for that one of the metal rings around the holes looks a bit messed up, but I cant tell if it is stray solder or what. Would solder outside of a hole make it frag (if the solder was not on a trace)? Please someone help me out again =(

 

[RoaZtedPuppy]

I'm fairly certain that damaged rings will make it frag. to remove solder from the holes you should hold the xbox vertical and use the iron on one side while using the desoldering bulb on the other.

 

[McEgan]

Any way to repair them or is it ruined? Guess it's a good thing xbox's arn't much anymore, I just worry about getting one of those damned 1.6b's

 

[badaktor]

if you can't get it working just go and get you a used one from gamestop and check the mfg date on the back, or better yet, just order you a new motherboard, and you already have the power supply and the rest of the parts.

just order a new board,, there like $40-$60, and this is just if you can't get it working, don't go and buy a rand new one, if you don't have to.

good luck though, are you using the stock hd, or upgraded on the xbox that isn't working ¿

 

[McEgan]

I'm using an upgraded one, but it worked fine before the fubarred ring incident. Where would I buy a new MB from for that cheap? I thought that the stock hard drive wouldn't be accessible if you used a different board (eeprom and all that. I say this because I tried switching out my bro's HD for mine a few months ago and it wouldn't open it)?

Any chance on a ring fix? Can I fill in the small holes in the ring with solder?

 

[clonedyoda]

Downgrade With Timeing Attack.

Is it still possable to use Timing Attack to downgrade new versions of the Xbox 360?
http://beta.ivancover.com/wiki/index.php/Xbox_360_Timing_Attack
Or if this doesnt work is there alternative methods?

Edit : Ive heard if you wipe your harddrive it removes updates. Is that true?

 

[ReMix]

Re: Downgrade With Timeing Attack.

"The timing attack is used allow machines with kernel 4552 or higher to downgrade to a vulnerable kernel"

does your xbox have a 4552 kernel?

i highly doubt it

 

[debart]

Re: Downgrade With Timeing Attack.

If you wipe your harddrive it dosn't matter because the dashboard image is stored on your onboard NAND chip, not in the harddrive. Wish it was that easy.. lol

 

[clonedyoda]

Re: Downgrade With Timeing Attack.

Yeah, Read somewhere that also when you upgrade past 8000 something it blows a fuse, making it permanently imposable to J tag your X box.

 

[debart]

Re: Downgrade With Timeing Attack.

That is correct, making jtaggable xbox360's a rarity...they're going extinct! aaaaah!

 

[clonedyoda]

Re: Downgrade With Timeing Attack.

Time to buy one off Ebay then.